Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Bearings

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blinkey501
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#46 Post by blinkey501 » Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:32 am

Yes.
Using simply bearings.
Works out at just under 50 quid with vat.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#47 Post by blinkey501 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 7:47 am

Cheaper supplier.
http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/hk1812_skf.html
£24.98 for six bearings including vat delivery.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#48 Post by mangocrazy » Mon Jul 17, 2017 3:22 pm

Those are the easier to find (and cheaper) drawn-cup type bearings, not the more exotic 'full compliment' type that are fitted as OE.

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#49 Post by fatboy » Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:03 pm

Would it be fair to assume the original type are the preferred type ?
Cleverly disguised as an adult !

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#50 Post by blinkey501 » Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:51 pm

mangocrazy wrote:Those are the easier to find (and cheaper) drawn-cup type bearings, not the more exotic 'full compliment' type that are fitted as OE.
Yes just realised.
They 1812 not 1812 V
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#51 Post by mangocrazy » Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:25 pm

fatboy wrote:Would it be fair to assume the original type are the preferred type ?
It would. I'd say they were fitted as OE for a reason... :smt004

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#52 Post by D-Rider » Tue Jul 18, 2017 7:19 am

fatboy wrote:Would it be fair to assume the original type are the preferred type ?
Yes definitely.

We had a chap on the forum some time back that was a bit of a bearing expert.
What I gathered is that the OEM full compliment bearings are better for low-speed, high-load applications whereas the caged variety are better for lower loaded high rotation speed applications.

The difficulty is in finding the full compliment bearings.
I guess if you can't then a new set of caged bearings are probably better than a knackered full-compliment set but you would need to keep a close eye on them to check all is well.
(Note: This is not my recommendation - if you go that way you do so at your own risk!)
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein

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Re: Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Beari

#53 Post by blinkey501 » Sun Feb 04, 2018 5:40 pm

D-Rider wrote:Swingarm & Suspension Linkage:

... just in case anyone needs to know what bearings are fitted to the swinger so you can source them somewhere cheaper than your Aprilia dealer, I've just replaced the bearings in the Mille swinger that I'm fitting.

The bearings used in the Falco and Mille swingers and linkages are the same.

Swingarm:
Image

The pair of ball races (#1 in the picture) are SKF 61904
The big roller bearing (#11 in the picture) is a Torrington HK3026

Linkage:
Image

The roller bearings for the linkage {2 in the swinger and 4 in the dog bone} (#2 in the picture above) are Torrington HK1812V. These are "full compliment" bearings - packed with rollers and no cage and are better for high load, low speed applications ... and are hard to source .... I couldn't get them and have fitted some caged rollers. I'll keep my eye on them and see how they do.
UPDATE: Shootmyscoot has found a source of the correct linkage bearings:
shootmyscoot wrote: Torrington HK1812V.
If any one needs them they can be got from Motion Industries
Address:
  • Motion Industries,
    Unit 2,
    Bracken Trade Park,
    Dumers Lane,
    Bury,
    Lancashire,
    BL9 9PE
Telephone: 0161 705 1237

oh they are 4 squids each

sms
Wheel Bearings (Brembo wheels):
Image

Front Wheels Bearings {2 required} (#11 in the picture above) are SKF 6005-2RS1/C3

Front Wheel Seals {2 required} (#10 in the picture above) are 30x47x7 R21

Image

Rear Wheels Bearings {2 required} (#19 in the picture above) are 6205-2RSR-C3 FAG

Rear Wheel Seal {1 required} (#15 in the picture above) - Sorry don't know this one

Sprocket Carrier Bearings {2 required} (#23 in the picture above) are 6006-2RSR-C3 FAG

Sprocket Carrier Seal {1 required} (#21 in the picture above) is 38x52x7 R23

Steering Stem Bearings:
Image

Steering Stem Bearings {2 required} (#1 in the picture above) SF07A22PX1 NTN
The SKF61904 bearings in the swingarm pivot point. Are they sealed or open bearing Andy?

Many thanks.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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Re:

#54 Post by Firestarter » Wed May 27, 2020 10:08 am

Aladinsaneuk wrote:
Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:19 am
courtesy of oliver - go-modem-go:

- Front wheel (OZ or Brembo, same): Ball bearing SKF IT type 6005-2RSH/C3 25x47x12 (AP8110094) x2, Gasket rings Freudenberg Simrit IT 30x47x7 BASL 72NBR902 (AP8125841) x2, Snap ring DIN 472 Seeger-Orbis IN J047x1,75 d47 (AP 8125842) x1

- Rear wheel (OZ or Brembo, same): Ball bearing SKF BG type 6205-2RSH/C3 25x52x15 (AP8110093) x2, Gasket Ring Freudenberg Simrit CZ 38x52x7 BASL 72NBR902 (AP8125838) x1, Snap ring DIN472 Seeger-Orbis DE 52x2.00 d52 (AP8125839) x1,

- Sprocket carrier: Ball bearing SKF type 6006 2RSH/C3 30x55x13 (AP8110081) x2, Gasket Ring Freudenberg Simrit CZ 38x52x7 BASL 72NBR902 (AP8121213) x1, Inside circlip d55 DIN472 052x2.00 (AP8121212) x1
Has anyone got a good source for these? Have found the bearings at good prices from a number of sources (simplybearings and others), but the gasket rings I'm struggling with (£20+ each against the AP number!)

Thanks
Mark
Aprilia SL1000 Falco '04 in Black & Red

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Re: Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Bearings

#55 Post by mangocrazy » Thu May 28, 2020 9:08 pm

I'm guessing that 'gasket ring' translates to 'oil seal' in most dialects of English, doesn''t it? Certainly the measurements are what you'd expect from an oil seal. I'd plug the dimensions of the 'gasket rings' into an oil seal search at a site like simplybearings and see what pops out.

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Re: Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Bearings

#56 Post by Firestarter » Sun Jun 07, 2020 3:33 pm

Ta, already ordered some from BearingKing, just waiting for them to check they're right

Next, the fun part of getting the bearings out!
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Re: Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Bearings

#57 Post by mangocrazy » Sun Jun 07, 2020 9:39 pm

In my experience they don't come out without a fight (or at least some persuasion). However it does help if you have the right kit, chief of which is a blind bearing puller. And a heat source (blowtorch). This is my post from 2013 on how I removed the bearing from my swingarm:

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10156&hilit=swinga ... s&start=15

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Re: Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Bearings

#58 Post by Firestarter » Sun Jun 07, 2020 10:01 pm

Gave up after about an hour earlier, figured something was going to get damaged by trying to drift them out with a punch, while it might be possible I'd rather not trash anything in haste, especially as the new bearings haven't arrived yet anyway. Only tried with boiling water, not a heat gun so far.

Blind puller/slide hammer on order... we shall see how we get on later in the week
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Re: Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Bearings

#59 Post by mangocrazy » Mon Jun 08, 2020 8:27 am

You really do need decent amounts of heat, plus the puller. Trying to drift them out cold is an exercise in futility and won't end well. I'd use a propane gas torch (the sort plumbers use) in preference to a hot air gun - the heat is applied more accurately and there's more of it.

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Re: Swingarm, Suspension Linkage, Wheel & Steering Bearings

#60 Post by Firestarter » Wed Jun 17, 2020 10:19 am

So, all the wheel and carrier bearings done without too much issue.

Heat - paint stripper did the job. Wasn't needed in all cases, but helped with a couple which were stuck in.

Bearing puller - waste of time. Couldn't get it to engage properly, I think the puller fittings weren't the right size (the one down was max size at the bearing size but I think was slightly too small, the one above started at that size but was slightly too big to go through) and just dug in to the alloy tube anyway, so didn't sit behind the bearing ring. In the end the favourite was a screwdriver, which I ground the end down to both square the sides off to make them parallel (as it was just pushing off the alloy tube when flared) and to flatten the end a bit so it wasn't "sharp".

Lastly, the sprocket carrier was interesting without a press. As there are two bearings which are stacked (with a spacer between them) I had to use both old bearings to drive in the new one without putting pressure on the centre ring, pull out the old bearings (with the bearing puller which worked fine between two bearings) then install the other new bearing with spacer until it just touched the 1st new bearing. Would anyone else have done anything different?
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