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I'm pretty sure that when I last gave it any thought my throttle would spring back shut if I let go of it.
Well I've noticed now that it needs manually twisting shut again. Both cables are intact but that's all I've looked at so far.

Any suggestions?

Also - what does the "choke" lever actually do? Doed it physically open the throttle at all?

You need to oil it

Yep

choke opens the throttle a bit

Why worry? You've got the cruise control for free
WD40 always worked for me. Spray it into the lines' hoses (you'll need to loosen them first). If you've got more time use proper oil, it'll work for longer.
If this doesn't work, a spring pulling it back may be broken or loose. Check under the airbox.

Oh, and don't trust any word you've just read.

Yeah I was thinking sticky cables BUT I read somewhere that some cables should NOT be oiled. Is it ok to lube the throttle cables ?

Actually I quite like the sticky throttle but there is probably some safety reason why it should spring shut upon release. Probably fail an MOT too

hi,had the same problem.turned out the bar end had been pushed in towards the grip making it stick

Fausto wrote:Yeah I was thinking sticky cables BUT I read somewhere that some cables should NOT be oiled. Is it ok to lube the throttle cables ?

Actually I quite like the sticky throttle but there is probably some safety reason why it should spring shut upon release. Probably fail an MOT too

Some cables come with the inner cable plastic coated. Some oils can and do damage these coatings, which is one of the reasons theyre not recommended to be oiled.

Rode for many months with a grip that was binding just enough to give cruise control.
Surprising how often one needs to gesticulate with the right hand.

Fausto wrote:Yeah I was thinking sticky cables BUT I read somewhere that some cables should NOT be oiled. Is it ok to lube the throttle cables ?

Actually I quite like the sticky throttle but there is probably some safety reason why it should spring shut upon release. Probably fail an MOT too

To be honest, a throttle that didn't snap shut at the speed of light (alright very quickly) would scare me witless, the idea of the throttle remaining on after letting go of the grip is a terrifying thought

I must be (I am) getting old

F9

gazman wrote:hi,had the same problem.turned out the bar end had been pushed in towards the grip making it stick

Ah, I like this theory and will go and have a look as soon as I can defrost the padlock.

Some cables come with the inner cable plastic coated. Some oils can and do damage these coatings, which is one of the reasons theyre not recommended to be oiled.

Anyone know if this applies to the Falco ? Or can I see the lining just by looking ?

Fausto wrote:

gazman wrote:hi,had the same problem.turned out the bar end had been pushed in towards the grip making it stick

Ah, I like this theory and will go and have a look as soon as I can defrost the padlock.

Some cables come with the inner cable plastic coated. Some oils can and do damage these coatings, which is one of the reasons theyre not recommended to be oiled.

Anyone know if this applies to the Falco ? Or can I see the lining just by looking ?

On my blackbird it had a nylon bush that stuck out the end about eighth of an inch at the bar end, so I'd guess and say if yours has one like that then don't oil it, you need a light grease (forgotten the name of it, sorry), if you disconnect the nipple from the throttle it should be possible to slide it out the end of the cable.

HTH

gazman wrote:hi,had the same problem.turned out the bar end had been pushed in towards the grip making it stick

Gazman wins !!!!

Yup it was the bar end. What must have happened is that the whole twist grip assembly had moved outwards slightly thus pressing against the bar end and causing the stickiness.

I just loosened the allen bolts and repositioned the twistgrip. Presto!

Anyone after a cheap cruise control could always do this in reverse. But I did not just recommend that