Bleeding the Hydraulics

[Aladinsaneuk]

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/show ... ost1455889

kzmille's guide to bleeding our brakes and clutches

I felt this was worth popping here as I think it warrants a stickie - i know I refer to it often :)

[D-Rider]

Now a "sticky" .... and, yes, an invaluable guide

[mangocrazy]

Here is a link to a product that has saved me huge amounts of time and stress when bleeding brakes. Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the stainless steel bleedable banjo bolt...

http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/store/index. ... der&page=5

Since discovering this wonderful piece of kit I have fitted one on every bike I've had (normally at the same time as upgrading to stainless steel braided hoses). You do need to check the thread pitch first, of course. Works for me.

[mangocrazy]

I've been told that the above link no longer works, and it does seem that BSR Aerotek are no longer in business. However eBay sellers bg-supplies and kwackers1 sell these items, either in plated steel or stainless (my preference).

[Dalemac]

Would i be right in saying that this would be fine to do from dry? As in injecting up into new brake lines?

[mangocrazy]

Would i be right in saying that this would be fine to do from dry? As in injecting up into new brake lines?

Yes. That's probably where the technique is most effective/most required. To be honest I tend to use a combination of KZMille's technique initially, then use a bleedable banjo bolt or the bleed nipple on the Brembo master cylinder to finish off.

[MartDude]

Just done the Fut's rear brake; some slight differences; this pic by Befbever on AF1 shows the set-up more clearly than I could explain - and it works - reverse bleeding not necessary;
It's essential to get the bleed nipple higher than the banjo, and to periodically turn the caliper to allow any air trapped under the banjo to rise to the bleeder, then crack the bleeder, push the pistons in, and close the bleeder.
Also, raise the RH hanger, c/w lever, reservoir and master cylinder - I did this by re-attaching the hanger etc. with a bolt through its bottom lug into the upper of the two threaded holes by which the hanger is normally fixed:

[mangocrazy]

Following on from Mart's guide for the Fut, I enclose a (hopefully self-explanatory) picture for the Falco (and probably RSV, Mille and Tuono). The rear brakes on these bikes have a well-deserved reputation as being a bit of a twat to bleed. I believe my method simplifies this greatly and makes it pretty much foolproof.

First of all, the picture:

DSC_6683_small.JPG (186.63 KiB) Viewed 8931 times

For this procedure, you will need:

1. An M8 x 120mm bolt
2. Sleeving/tube with an 8mm internal diameter, approx 100mm in length
3. A jar/container of some description
4. Brake fluid
5. Clear plastic hose of the correct internal diameter to fit snugly on a Brembo bleed nipple
6. An 11mm ring/open end spanner (to fit bleed nipple)
7. A 10mm socket or ring/open end spanner
8. A suitable size spanner/socket/screwdriver to fit the M8 x 120mm bolt mentioned earlier.
9. A piece of wood approx 120mm x 40mm x6mm to interpose between the brake pads
10. A rubber band, if you're a belt and braces kinda chap

Method:

1. Remove rear caliper from its carrier by undoing the two M8 x 20mm hex bolts (10mm head).

2. Place the piece of wood between the pads and secure in place using rubber band

3. Undo the front of the two M8 bolts (10mm head) holding the offside passenger footrest bracket to the subframe

4. Take your M8 x 120mm bolt and pass through the caliper mounting hole closest to the bleed nipple, as shown in the photo.

5. Take your sleeving/tube and place over the bolt. I used 10mm stainless tubing with 1mm wall thickness that I happened to have around. Similar sized copper or steel tubing would also be perfect.

6. Bolt this arrangement to the footrest mounting bracket hole as shown in the photo, ensuring that the bleed nipple is at the highest point and the brake hose is not twisted (both these points are important to successful operation).

7. Attach plastic bleed tubing to bleed nipple as shown, and ensure that the other end of the tubing ends inside your chosen container.

8. Without undoing the bleed nipple, pump the brake lever firmly two or three times. Tap the caliper and brake hose to encourage any bubbles to free themselves and rise upwards.

9. Walk away, lock the garage/shed door and leave overnight for gravity to work its magic.

10. Next day, bleed brakes as usual. Marvel at how firm pedal feel is obtained after only a few minutes.

11. Undo M8 x 120mm bolt and wooden block and re-fit caliper to carrier. Torque bolts to correct value. Re-attach footrest bracket bolt and torque to correct value.

12. Buy me a beer next time you see me.

That is all.