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Any helpful hints and tips when removing/refitting the rear wheel would be very gratefully recieved. Its payday so new rear tyre being fitted tomorrow. While I`m at it a new renthal 15 tooth gearbox sprockets going on that should lively it up a bit, not thats its a slug to beginwith. I know the torque setting is 50Nm and to use locktite on the bolt.

50Nm sound Waaay to low to me, let me check....

Found it; 120NM.

http://www.apriliaforum.com/techtips/10 ... uespec.htm

this was the source of my info, please cite yours. 120Nm for a 10mm bolt will strip/shear it, thats big trouble.
and also page 279 of the falco shop manual.

take your bike to a tyre place that offers a ride in ride out service for your tyre - easy (Ask nicely if you can change the front sprocket while the wheel is off - will be cool with that)

changing the sprocket - you may well need a new chain - just in case you do not have sufficient slack....

120Nm is for the rear axle bolt.

50Nm is for the sprocket to sprocket holder bolts (although the workshop manual doesn't state that the bolts require any form of threadlock).

tyre places want too much money for their tyres. I am going down one tooth from stock so no problems with chain length. ordinarilly not good practise fitting new sprockets on worn chains, however 3k miles wont have worn the chain much and i will inpect the profile of the old sprocket to check if it could have worn the chain.

getting the wheel out of the Honda is a pain, and having learned the hard way the shortcuts, i wanted to fast track my experience on the falco

TreeTops wrote:120Nm is for the rear axle bolt.

50Nm is for the sprocket to sprocket holder bolts (although the workshop manual doesn't state that the bolts require any form of threadlock).

torque is correct at 50Nm, the manual does however specify loctite 243 on the bolt and "anti sieze" read coppaslip, on the pinion splines, page 284 section 7-79-00 of the blagged manual on the Danish web site, cant remember his name, martin poll i think, refers

hmm - my local tyre places are the same as internet prices - 160 fitted for a pair of conti road attacks fitted - ride in ride out.... suggest you shop around?

saw an add for a tyre place in Maldon i think, it offered ride in ride out for no extra money.
Thought i, d try it myself sometime. can look for it if its of interest.

Aladinsaneuk wrote:hmm - my local tyre places are the same as internet prices - 160 fitted for a pair of conti road attacks fitted - ride in ride out.... suggest you shop around?

Got a flyer this week from Busters - they're doing pairs of Diablos for about £100 !!

Now having just moved over to Diablo Rossos I seriously wonder whether there is a better tyre at the moment ..... but to get the previous generation Diablos for about £100 a pair has to be quite a bargain.

My badd, I thought you meant the rear axle nut.

D-Rider wrote:

Aladinsaneuk wrote:hmm - my local tyre places are the same as internet prices - 160 fitted for a pair of conti road attacks fitted - ride in ride out.... suggest you shop around?

Got a flyer this week from Busters - they're doing pairs of Diablos for about £100 !!

Now having just moved over to Diablo Rossos I seriously wonder whether there is a better tyre at the moment ..... but to get the previous generation Diablos for about £100 a pair has to be quite a bargain.

You had me going there Andy, unless the Busters web site has not been updated as yet. I need a pair of tyres and thought my prayers had been answered, but a pair of Diablos are still about £180 on Busters web-site as of this morning. Have you any more details???

F9

So I guess you have no helpful hints and tips on rear wheel removal/fitting,as the thread now seems to be all about the price of tyres, I shall discover my own helpfull hints and tips.

1, use masking tape on wheel rim so the caliper bracket wont damage the powder coated rim.

Falco9 wrote: You had me going there Andy, unless the Busters web site has not been updated as yet. I need a pair of tyres and thought my prayers had been answered, but a pair of Diablos are still about £180 on Busters web-site as of this morning. Have you any more details???

F9

Whoops ..... spelling error ..... sorry


What I meant was Demon Tweeks ... it was a flyer in this weeks MCN.


I did get one from Busters this week and must have got a bit mixed up .... old age and all that

scorpio24v wrote:So I guess you have no helpful hints and tips on rear wheel removal/fitting,as the thread now seems to be all about the price of tyres, I shall discover my own helpfull hints and tips.

1, use masking tape on wheel rim so the caliper bracket wont damage the powder coated rim.

OK, OK, don't throw the teddy out out of the pram (lol)

Assuming you have a rear paddock stand, removal is very straight forward, slacken off the wheel bolt and then slacken off the chain tensioners fully by winding them right in to the swinging arm, personally I also remove the rear brake caliper (only 2 bolts) but a lot don't / wont. Push the wheel forward then take the nut off , take the weight of the wheel and remove the spindle fully. Once the spindle is out roll / push the wheel forward to give you max slack on the chain, then pull the chain off the sprocket (using latex gloves is always a good idea) and by now you should also be able to remove the wheel form the rear of the bike.

Fitting is just the reverse of the above, it's always a bit more fiddly because you need to support the weight of the wheel to fit the spindle in, as well as lining up the brake plate (that carries the caliper) I use me toes to take the weight of the wheel, but it's a lot easier if you have a mate helping. I also just rest the spindle (nicely re-greased) right at the end of the swinging arm slot to make it easier to push in when everything is lined up, always remember to clean all the parts that come off, and a nice smear of high melting point grease on everything (apart from the brake caliper) will make sure it's easier to do next time.re fasten the washer & bolts on the spindle and brake caliper and you're done. (Hint don't let the caplier just hang in fresh air, support it with a tie wrap through one of the bolt eyes and off the footrest or summit, or use a bungee to do the same job. I also do the same thing with the chain, yes I actually have a designated bungee for supporting the chain off the ground and yes I am sad, I know!

Don't think I've missed owt (i'm sure I'll be told if I have!!) also by removing the brake caliper you wont bash your nice new wheels with it. like I did on the Tuono,

Overal it's one of those jobs that gets better (and easier) with practice, don't imagine it's as simple as they make it look in the MotoGP paddock because it isn't, but take your time,double check everything and make sure you get the rear wheel lined up properly when re-tensioning the chain (use the marks on the swinging arm), don't overtighten the chain, about 1-1/2 " of movement should be OK, better a little slack than overtight IMHO, give the wheel a nice spin to check everything is smooth and quiet before doing the spindle nut, and check the chain tension again after torquing up the nut becasue on some bikes (my old Falco included) it always seemed to tighten the chain up a bit more

And finally press the rear brake pedal a few times to get the pads back up to the disc

Hope this isn't too simplistic, if it is I apologise

F9