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Following on from my sevicing thread, I know you suggested using 15/50, but having read this thread:

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/show ... ?p=1786621

I plumped for 10/40....Just though I'd let you know.

Thanks!

~:)

synth or semi?

and let us know how the clutch feels

Semi, I figure if there's someone who's used it since new and an aprilia notice advising that if a custemer suffers clutch slip it. Coupled with the fact that I don't know what oils already in my bike it was the safer option.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Phill

Yeah I wouldn't worry about it too much - viscosity that is. Personally I go for 15/50 coz I can get it easily at no extra cost and it's a tiny bit more 'interesting' than boring old 10/40 when I do an oil change but I have used 10/40 before. I would be more inclined to worry if i was living in a much hotter part of the world.

I suspect the only real way to tell which is better would be a totally scientific test using identical bikes in identical situations - perhaps engines on a bench - with a full stripdown to inspect the bearing shells etc after half a million miles simulated use

I would be a little more concerned about the effects of synthetic on the clutch but you'll find that out soon enough and it probably won't do any long term damage.

Hell - I just changed the oil on my DRZ and just chucked in the remnants of at least 2 different oil cans because I hate waste

Hi new to falco but adding my pennyworth here. Been working last 6 years as a lubrication engineer for one of the Big Oil companies, the principles I apply to lube selections for all machinery (especially IC engines) are relevant to bikes. 1st check OEM spec for viscosity then look for the highest API rating (SL with Castrol) but ensure JASO MA as minimum, prefer MA-2 myself as that conforms to latest tests for friction. As already posted avoid car oils as these have friction modifiers (PTFE, Moly etc), also I would go with Fully synth which are ususlly blends of PAO/Ester base stocks, these have naturally High Viscosity Index which is a measure of how the lube maintains it desired viscosity over the temp range, they will also work correctly at higher temps so you should get longer life as oxidisation rate is slower. With a semi-synthetic to get multi-grade effect they may use VI Improvers as an additive which again can effect clutch performance.

So my oil (no particular brand) API SL ,JASO MA-2 , 10W-40 expensive yes but less deposits, longer life, improved fuel economy

Interesting.

and welcome.

I wonder what name they put on the container?

Depends who's selling it, Gio.

bubbaf wrote:Hi new to falco but adding my pennyworth here. Been working last 6 years as a lubrication engineer for one of the Big Oil companies, the principles I apply to lube selections for all machinery (especially IC engines) are relevant to bikes. 1st check OEM spec for viscosity then look for the highest API rating (SL with Castrol) but ensure JASO MA as minimum, prefer MA-2 myself as that conforms to latest tests for friction. As already posted avoid car oils as these have friction modifiers (PTFE, Moly etc), also I would go with Fully synth which are ususlly blends of PAO/Ester base stocks, these have naturally High Viscosity Index which is a measure of how the lube maintains it desired viscosity over the temp range, they will also work correctly at higher temps so you should get longer life as oxidisation rate is slower. With a semi-synthetic to get multi-grade effect they may use VI Improvers as an additive which again can effect clutch performance.

So my oil (no particular brand) API SL ,JASO MA-2 , 10W-40 expensive yes but less deposits, longer life, improved fuel economy

Good info from an informed source.

Just three points of need addressing:-

1. WTF does most of that mean? Especially the anachronisms.

2. Welcome to the site . What you riding, mods and location?

3. BAR

Hi all,

I agree with FP on this! Will the different oil manufacturers has all them there letters on the can/container, are they obliged too describe it to that specific or does 10/40W or 10/50W and the like all they have too put on there

The technical stuff is good, but, what make is best for our bikes, that's all I want too know matey

Ur friendly lens guy.

My Aprilia dealer did a 10K service on mine in April 2005 and filled with 10-40 Putoline fully synthetic, clutch started slipping slightly on the way home! Thought I'd see if it was just some sort of bedding in problem, so I'd see if it was OK later, ran it for a little while and it started getting worse over the next two or three weeks. I know some Falcos have needed clutches around 10K, so I resigned myself to this. Read a thread somewhere, think it was on the original Hadeler site, about not using fully synth oil.
Had 4 litres of 10-40 Castrol GPS semi synth in the garage, that I've used for years on my old CBR1000F.
Drained the Falco and filled with this, instant cure!
I've used it ever since, now using the newer version Casrol Power 1, 10-40 Part Synthetic.
More than three years on, the Bike has now done 24k miles, absolutely no clutch problems at all, still on original unit.
Can't be sure on difference on the engine wear side between 10-40 fully syth and part syth, but I do know the difference in my wallet not having to fit a new clutch every 10K or so miles.

Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 - then I'm biased (Seen lab testing and the rolling road/wind tunnel 24 hr test robot controls throttle, clutch, gears etc) plus discount for employee

JASO MA-2 is Japanese Automobile standard for Motorcycles only (MA-2 latest issue)

API (American Petroleum Institute) S = Petrol engines, C = Diesel engines, higher the 2nd letter up the alphabet the more up to date the standard.

Link here is to Castrol web-site just need to select which bike and it gives you all Castrol products that are recommended for it Engine, Brake, Forks etc

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/extended ... Id=7038077

No mods on a Blue 03 registered Falco, up in sunny Aberdeen

I asked for semi-synth when mine was serviced earlier this year, but it seems the bike place got their wires crossed as when I picked it up the guy told me he put fully synth in. I was a bit worried at first but haven't noticed any difference in the clutch whatsoever so am happy to leave it as is.