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EFI advice, please (oh no)
Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:39 pm
by SkinnyPinny
right, got the bike out today, switched on and the EFI was flashing, instead of cold.
hmm, I started it up hoping it would go away, ( yes I know,

)
anyway after a short time, it was still there so I stopped and switched off, waited a minute or so, and switched it back on.
everything seemed fine, only the temp was displayed, great!
started it up, and after 5 secs or so, EFI again. boo!
so I got back home, switched off, connected the 2 wires under the seat and switched ign on, bike not running, all I get was '1' displayed.
started it up and I get '35',
according to the manual, thats rear coil number1,
so, the question is, does this sound right? has anyone else had this,? it does not seem to be running that rough.
it just sounds to simple,

ta, Skinny
Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:20 pm
by Falcopops
Here's the fault codes page from the Falco manual. The "1" code is telling you that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is a bit off you can either get it back to 0 by using the adjustment screw on the right of the tank, but you might drop the idle too low. If you are happy with the way the bike was running ond once you've fixed the coil problem adjust the TPS position to get the 1 code back to 0. It's all in the manual - see below.
so it seems like there is something iffy about the coil. You could swap front and rear coils to see if you get the code for the front to confirm.
You can download the manual
here
HTH
Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:15 am
by Pierre
You hadnt washed it just before you parked it last time out did you? Mine flashes all sorts after I shock it with a hosepipe
I dont have a spare coil but they are regular enough on ebay
EFI
Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:56 pm
by Kenif
Washed it or dropped it? After I suffered some extreme lean angle in Germany (ok, crashed), the EFI warning would come on while I was riding. Only happened for a day or two (and always went back to normal when I stopped for a minute) then resolved itself...
Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:56 pm
by falcomunky
Started my own thread; Sorry SkinnyPinny!

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:28 pm
by Falcopops
There was a bit of scaremongering going around a while back about running the motor with the diagnostics wires connected, something along the lines of DON'T DO IT THE WORLD WILL END!
Not true - how is the computer going to know if a coil is bust if it's not active?
So go and try to start it with the wires joined and see what code you get. I've done this with no ill effects.
I'd be surprised if you get anything other than 0, I reckon the plugs are fouled. Leave it overnight and try the - starting it with the throttle full open trick.
A couple of years ago mine fouled the front plugs and ran like a dog then wouldn't start at all the following day. Changed the plugs and all was well. I chucked in Irridium plugs a bit expensive but worth another 10bhp apparently

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:40 pm
by falcomunky
Started my own thread; Sorry SkinnyPinny!

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:56 pm
by D-Rider
Falcopops wrote:There was a bit of scaremongering going around a while back about running the motor with the diagnostics wires connected, something along the lines of DON'T DO IT THE WORLD WILL END!
Not true
Wot he said ... the manual tells you to run it for some things with the diag wires connected.
Falcopops wrote: I reckon the plugs are fouled.
A couple of years ago mine fouled the front plugs and ran like a dog then wouldn't start at all the following day. Changed the plugs and all was well. I chucked in Irridium plugs a bit expensive but worth another 10bhp apparently

Recently mine wouldn't start 'cos the plugs were fouled. Took them out, cleaned them, popped them back and away it went.
I knew it was running rich which, no doubt, caused the problem. Just had it serviced and the fuelling was leaned-off. Also had iridiums fitted at the same time .... but didn't have to pay for mine

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:01 pm
by falcomunky
Started my own thread; Sorry SkinnyPinny!

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:19 pm
by falcomunky
Started my own thread; Sorry SkinnyPinny!

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:10 am
by Falcopops
I'd expect it to run on three plugs too, so I'm thinking if the bad lead isn't the one giving you the diagnostic reading and the other (supposedly good lead/coil) is then you may not have any spark at all in the rear chamber!
Could be all bollox though

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:40 am
by Falcopops
Aha! another thought try swapping them over to see what happens!
I had a look to see if there is an easy way to tell which coil is which, but the manuals are a bit vague. The Diagnostic is saying coil 1 is the problem, but I can't tell which is coil 1 and the wiring diagram is bugger all help.
Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:39 am
by Falcoholic
I might have a set of original plug leads after I swapped em out for the EVO ones.
That's if I didn't bin em

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:10 pm
by mellow yellow
I had starting problems which I put down to my alarm draining my battery. It turned over but didn't have enough juice to kick it into life so I pulled the alarm off for good (long overdue - nothing but trouble

)
Thought this would be the cure but turns out it wasn't. The real root of the problem was a dirty earthing point.
Check your earthing points and ensure your battery terminals are REALLY tight.
May not be the solution to your problem but it wont do any harm to check them anyway.
Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:33 am
by SkinnyPinny
hello all,
I have been away working for a couple of days, so I have only just got to reply,
thanks for all the advice, It seems that the diagnostic code is spot on,
I took the body work off started looking at the coils, and lo & behold, 1 of the wires to the inner coil was only just hanging on to the spade connector,
I have soldered new connectors, and things are back to normal,
I will have a look at moving the TPS to 0, but I'm just glad its nothing serious,
more than glad actually,
cheers, Skinny