Swingarm removal

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blinkey501
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Swingarm removal

#1 Post by blinkey501 » Sun Sep 07, 2014 11:40 am

This is the way I remove the swingarm.
This method can be used to change an arm or inspect, grease or change your bearings.
Remove your petrol tank.
Pass the strap through the frame of the bike. Using pull lifts take the weight of the bike.
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Remove the exhausts.
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Remove the wheel nut.
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Raise the bike with the pull lifts. Remove the axle pin, and back wheel.
Remove the front sprocket cover and remove the sprocket if "Mille swingarm fitted".
If a falco swingarm is fitted there is no need.
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You can see the triangle and dog bone bolt, they will be removed shortly.
Remove the springs that hold your collector to the down pipes.
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Disconnect you triangle and dog bone bolts from the arm and frame.
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Remove the shock mounting bolt from the top.
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The shock can be removed out through the top. Lower the rear of the swingarm where the wheel fits in to allow room for the shock to come out.
Undo two of the three down pipe nuts. One of the nuts is a pita to get out. Leave it in.
It is a bit fiddly but the collector can now be removed.
It would be better if some one could hold the swingarm up at the back to allow you more room to remove.

Remove the nut on the left hand side of the bike for the swingarm pivot bolt.
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By using this tool and rotating counter clockwise you will be releasing the adjustable collar which pushes up against the swingarm bearing.
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Using a 14mm allen socket rotate the adjuster counter clockwise . When the swingarm moves side to side pull out the pivot pin, This will allow the swingarm to be lowered away from the frame.
Pull the back down pipe gently and the swingarm will come out.
Because the front sprocket is removed the chain will come with it.
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Remove the spacer collars on the swingarm both sides.
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This one looks in good condition.
Wipe out the old grease and regrease the bearings. Refit the collar.
Carefully remove the dust seal on the other side of the swingarm.
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Remove the circlip.
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Push your finger in the hole and rotate the bearings.
They should be free with no side ways movement.
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Wipe as much of the old grease out and force some more grease into the rollers.
Replace the circlip and seal.
Might be a good time to empty the water out of your swingarm. :smt016
Remove the pin that is in the swingarm for the dog bone and linkage mounts.
This one is damaged, luckily I have a spare.
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Check the bearings and replace or regrease.
I will update this post when the extra work commences.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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blinkey501
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Location: near doncaster

#2 Post by blinkey501 » Sat Apr 29, 2017 11:28 pm

Whilst you swinger is out, or you just want to do the dog bone linkage bearings.

Here is a guide on how to change them.

You use the same method of lifting the rear as in removing the swinger, in order to take the weight off the linkages itself.

I find it is easier to remove the cans to do this operation, but it is not totally necessary with a little know how.

But you may benefit from removing the collector to gain access to one of the bolts.

I am not posting up on how to remove the dog bone as yet, and will modify the post when that job comes up.

That said....If you can remove the swinger, he linkages should be quite easy.

As before. I accept no responsibility if you decide to follow this guide, and for some reason something go's wrong.

A reason why these seize.

When you follow this guide it will be apparent that seals will be fitted when assembly is completed.

I have never stripped the dog bone bearings out that has had seals fitted.

No seals will allow water, salt. And ingress of dirt into the bearings and pins.

The dog bone with old pin fitted.

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Spray both sides with WD40

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You will need a socket which is slightly smaller than the centre pin.

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Place dog bone in vice between two sockets.

The one on the opposite side should be larger than the pin.

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Tighten the vice to push the pin through the bearings.

Longer sockets on both sides of the dog bone may be required to drive the pin through if the pin is awkward to push through all the way.


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Pin out.

This reveals the bearings.

Although the may appear to look ok, the pin was corroded, and the bearings have not been moving.

These will still need changing.

These are new bearings fitted to a different dog bone just to show you what they look like in the dog bone body.

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To give you an idea, this is how dry the needle bearings look.

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Pushing the bearings through.

Again you may benefit from longer nose sockets.

The sockets you use. One needs to be slightly smaller than the outer size of the bearing.

The other needs to sallow the bearings to be pushed through the socket.

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There is two bearings in each side of the dog bone.

Bearings out.

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New bearing.

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EP2 Grease is a bearing grease which is high quality.

This is lithium based and brilliant for this application when building bearing components up.

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Place some more grease inside the bearing against the needle rollers.

This will add additional lubrication, and help hold the bearings in place when pressing the rollers into the dog bone.

Clean the inside of the dog bone with a fine emery paper.

Spray the inside of the dog bone with WD40 to help with assembly. This will lubricate the aluminium surface to accept the new bearings.

You are not trying to remove any aluminium from the dog bone, just the dirt and rub marks when removing the old bearings.

Spray the inside with WD 4URL=http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/blink ... u.jpg.html]Image[/URL]

Line the bearing up with the hole in the dog bone. This needs to be square onto the dog bone, and not uneven.

Place the dog bone and bearing in the vice, turn the vice handle until the vive can go no more.

Both bearings fitted. This is what it should look like.

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Undo the vice, and fit a socket that pushes against the outside face of the bearing body. you need to push the bearing in about 4-4.5mm.

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Push the new pin through the bearings. Turn the pin whilst pushing. Make sure not to disturb any of the needle rollers when fitting.

This is what things should look like.

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Doing one end at a time, turn and push the seal over the pin.

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Place the socket back over the pin and against the bearing housing on the opposite side to which the first seal is fitted.

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Tighten the vice until seal is flush with outside of dog bone.

This where the seal should sit on both sides when complete.

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You will need to use a bigger socket when fitting the opposite seal, the socket will need to push against the dog bone and not the bearing.

When you have built the bearings, pins and seals up. Place the dog bone back in the vice and clamp the pin slightly.

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Swing the dog bone down. There should be free movement with a little resistance.

You can now refit the dog bone.

I need to finish updating this thread. Torrington HK1812v bearings will also need fitting into the swingarm.

Admin.

Can you please re name this thread to....

Swingarm removal and dog bone service please.

Thanks.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

fatboy
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Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:48 pm
Location: BATH

#3 Post by fatboy » Sun Apr 30, 2017 5:02 pm

Good stuff there Blinkey, good work mate !
Cleverly disguised as an adult !

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