Fuel pump base petrol leak
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- blinkey501
- World Champion
- Posts: 3494
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: near doncaster
Fuel pump base petrol leak
So. Through no choice of my own I have had to re seal the Base plate on the pump.
I am now going to post what needs to be done to tackle the task yourself.
The boring stuff.
This is only a guide.
If you decide to take on the task you do so at your own risk.
Petrol as you know is highly flammable. I will advise you to disconnect and remove your battery which could cause a spark.
I would advise that the bike be left until the petrol and petrol vapour has evaporated from the area before disconnecting and removing the battery!!!!!.
Step 1)
Undo the 2x seat bolts.
Step 2) Remove the seat.
Step 3
Under the seat is the battery.
Undo the battery terminal bolts and remove the battery
Step 4) Remove the tank front bolts near the headstock.
Step 5)
Undo the petrol pipe connector .
Push the button in on the connector to release the pipes.
Step 6)
Tilt the tank back and remove the two over flow pipes.
Step 7)
There is a pipe from the tank to the throttle bodies.
Remove the air box.
Them remove the pipe at the throttle body end.
The pipe is threaded under and between the throttle bodies.
Undo the pipe and pull the pipe out.
Here is a socket on the nut.
Step 8)
Undo the four bolts at the back of the tank.
Note if battery is not removed the steel mounting bracket could come in contact with the battery terminals and create a spark!!!!!
Step 9)
Remove the tank and place upside down on a none scratch surface.
Remove the fuel pump cover screws.
Note. Here is the pump and filter if you decide you want to change the filter.
Step 10)
Remove the seal and clean the pump surface ready for re assemble.
Clean in the groove where the seal sits.
Refit the seal into the base.
Step 11)
Clean the tank base.
You will need this.
Step 12)
Cover the tank with the red paste as shown.
Note there will be excess when fitting the pump base.
I would put some of the paste on the pump base also before fitting to the tank.
Refit the pump base plate and bolt back into place.
Check torque settings from the owners manual.
Rebuild the bike back up in reverse to re-assemble.
I am now going to post what needs to be done to tackle the task yourself.
The boring stuff.
This is only a guide.
If you decide to take on the task you do so at your own risk.
Petrol as you know is highly flammable. I will advise you to disconnect and remove your battery which could cause a spark.
I would advise that the bike be left until the petrol and petrol vapour has evaporated from the area before disconnecting and removing the battery!!!!!.
Step 1)
Undo the 2x seat bolts.
Step 2) Remove the seat.
Step 3
Under the seat is the battery.
Undo the battery terminal bolts and remove the battery
Step 4) Remove the tank front bolts near the headstock.
Step 5)
Undo the petrol pipe connector .
Push the button in on the connector to release the pipes.
Step 6)
Tilt the tank back and remove the two over flow pipes.
Step 7)
There is a pipe from the tank to the throttle bodies.
Remove the air box.
Them remove the pipe at the throttle body end.
The pipe is threaded under and between the throttle bodies.
Undo the pipe and pull the pipe out.
Here is a socket on the nut.
Step 8)
Undo the four bolts at the back of the tank.
Note if battery is not removed the steel mounting bracket could come in contact with the battery terminals and create a spark!!!!!
Step 9)
Remove the tank and place upside down on a none scratch surface.
Remove the fuel pump cover screws.
Note. Here is the pump and filter if you decide you want to change the filter.
Step 10)
Remove the seal and clean the pump surface ready for re assemble.
Clean in the groove where the seal sits.
Refit the seal into the base.
Step 11)
Clean the tank base.
You will need this.
Step 12)
Cover the tank with the red paste as shown.
Note there will be excess when fitting the pump base.
I would put some of the paste on the pump base also before fitting to the tank.
Refit the pump base plate and bolt back into place.
Check torque settings from the owners manual.
Rebuild the bike back up in reverse to re-assemble.
Tolerance will be our undoing.
- mangocrazy
- Admin
- Posts: 3910
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Sheffield, UK
I've also had cause to do the same job, but I used Loctite 518, as I happened to have it to hand and it withstands fuel. While I was doiing the job I checked the state of the drain tubes in the tank and (predictably) one was blocked. The other was OK.
I tried various drill bit sizes in the outlets on the base of the tank, to ascertain what the internal diameter of the tank spigot is, and I can say with some certainty that it's 2.5mm. One one of the spigots, the drill would go down to the full depth of the drill (minus the bit I was holding it with). The other one went in about 2 mm.
So I stuck the drill bit in a cordless drill and gently drilled out the blockage (a gooey substance that I couldn't identify) until the passage was clear. A couple of blasts of compressed air from the filler cap end of the drain tubes and all was well - both vent tubes clear. If a blockage is going to develop, that's where it will be, as the internal tube in the tank narrows right down to 2.5mm - an obvious bottleneck if ever I saw one.
I tried various drill bit sizes in the outlets on the base of the tank, to ascertain what the internal diameter of the tank spigot is, and I can say with some certainty that it's 2.5mm. One one of the spigots, the drill would go down to the full depth of the drill (minus the bit I was holding it with). The other one went in about 2 mm.
So I stuck the drill bit in a cordless drill and gently drilled out the blockage (a gooey substance that I couldn't identify) until the passage was clear. A couple of blasts of compressed air from the filler cap end of the drain tubes and all was well - both vent tubes clear. If a blockage is going to develop, that's where it will be, as the internal tube in the tank narrows right down to 2.5mm - an obvious bottleneck if ever I saw one.
- blinkey501
- World Champion
- Posts: 3494
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: near doncaster
The fuel leak was not from the fuel pump base but from one of the two overflow pipes.
I decided to do a bit of investigation and noticed that the protective covering over the breather pipes was gone and one of the pipes was cracked.
I considered a second hand tank and having it painted.
But with nothing to loose I decided to cut the split piece out and bridge the gap.
I called hose direct or some advice on what would work.
Paul told me that with the pipe being submersed in fuel a PTFE pipe would have to be used.
He sold me a length of pipe that is braided and seems to have done the trick.
I have done fifty miles and no leaks.
I hope you don't have to do this folks but it is a choice if you come across the problem.
The pipe
You will need a flexible jubilee driver to get in.
I decided to do a bit of investigation and noticed that the protective covering over the breather pipes was gone and one of the pipes was cracked.
I considered a second hand tank and having it painted.
But with nothing to loose I decided to cut the split piece out and bridge the gap.
I called hose direct or some advice on what would work.
Paul told me that with the pipe being submersed in fuel a PTFE pipe would have to be used.
He sold me a length of pipe that is braided and seems to have done the trick.
I have done fifty miles and no leaks.
I hope you don't have to do this folks but it is a choice if you come across the problem.
The pipe
You will need a flexible jubilee driver to get in.
Tolerance will be our undoing.
- Aladinsaneuk
- Aprilia Admin
- Posts: 9503
- Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:37 pm
- Location: Webfoot territory
Well at last I have finally cracked the fuel tank leak. First attempt was unsuccessful. Second try, using the Red Hyoltyte and rigorous preparation has, thus far, produced a good seal between the base of the tank and the pump.
I did have the tank off "venting" for a couple of months over the winter and it did seem to shrink back a little - anyhow it went back on easier than the first attempt.
Used a pair of the wifes' old tights over the base of the tank to let the fuel vapours completely vent and stop any debris falling in whilst this was happening.
Many thanks to Blinkey's expert post for a step by step guide - worked well.
Took the bird out for a blast yesterday around the roads of the Essex and Suffolk border after work and all is well.
I did have the tank off "venting" for a couple of months over the winter and it did seem to shrink back a little - anyhow it went back on easier than the first attempt.
Used a pair of the wifes' old tights over the base of the tank to let the fuel vapours completely vent and stop any debris falling in whilst this was happening.
Many thanks to Blinkey's expert post for a step by step guide - worked well.
Took the bird out for a blast yesterday around the roads of the Essex and Suffolk border after work and all is well.
- blinkey501
- World Champion
- Posts: 3494
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: near doncaster
A friendly mechanic with access to a jizzer (sp) would have made life easier (Soak overnight then airline it). I had the same problem on my old Blackbird back in 2003.mangocrazy wrote:I've also had cause to do the same job, but I used Loctite 518, as I happened to have it to hand and it withstands fuel. While I was doiing the job I checked the state of the drain tubes in the tank and (predictably) one was blocked. The other was OK.
I tried various drill bit sizes in the outlets on the base of the tank, to ascertain what the internal diameter of the tank spigot is, and I can say with some certainty that it's 2.5mm. One one of the spigots, the drill would go down to the full depth of the drill (minus the bit I was holding it with). The other one went in about 2 mm.
So I stuck the drill bit in a cordless drill and gently drilled out the blockage (a gooey substance that I couldn't identify) until the passage was clear. A couple of blasts of compressed air from the filler cap end of the drain tubes and all was well - both vent tubes clear. If a blockage is going to develop, that's where it will be, as the internal tube in the tank narrows right down to 2.5mm - an obvious bottleneck if ever I saw one.
I hate it when people ask if you have a bathroom, I want to say "No we pee in the garden"
- blinkey501
- World Champion
- Posts: 3494
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: near doncaster
- mangocrazy
- Admin
- Posts: 3910
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Sheffield, UK
Re: Fuel pump base petrol leak
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