Replacing eprom

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gazuk
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Replacing eprom

#1 Post by gazuk » Fri May 11, 2007 2:47 pm

Hopefully some time this weekend I'll fit the blue flame exhausts and chip I got off ebay.

They guy I got them from was very helpful and gave me a link on the web with instructions on how to fit the chip. So I've now got my new chip puller and anti static strap, but I couldn't find any RTV sealant (used to help with vibration when the chip is in place). The guy at Maplins told me to use bathroom sealant, but be careful cos if I use an acid based one it could eat through the board!

So, to thoes who have replaced their chips, did you use a sealant on the chip when installed, and if so what?

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Falco9
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#2 Post by Falco9 » Fri May 11, 2007 3:33 pm

The chip I used was such a tight fit, there was no need for sealant. The SL chip did 14,000 miles with no sealant and never missed a beat and is still in there working fine. Be very very careful removing the chip as it is sooooooooo easy to bend and break a pin rendering the chip useless

Mind you I never used an anti-static strap , a chip puller or even disconnected the battery, I just pulled the 2 plugs out of the ECU, opended it up and went from there.

PLEASE don't follow my example though as a number have fried the chip doing this, but I watched the Aprilia mechanic do it this way when he serviced the bike and just copied him.

Sometimes ignorance is bliss!

F9

gazuk
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#3 Post by gazuk » Fri May 11, 2007 3:37 pm

what are the tell tale signs of a fried chip?

My replacement chip is second hand, so it could already be buggered.

What will be the effect of running with my blue flame cans on the standard chip?

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Falco9
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#4 Post by Falco9 » Fri May 11, 2007 3:45 pm

Tell Tale visible signs can be zero, mainly the bike won't start and you don't get the fuel pump whirring

Unlikely to be buggered they are a lot tougher than people think (well in my experience they are)

Probable effects of running the std chip would be minimal as most end cans are designed to be used with std ship, so mainly more noise but similar amount of power

Aftermarket chips usually smooth out the 5k flat spot and are designed to work with an increased amount of air (Rengade airkit or K&N etc..) and a race can to get the gasses out quicker.
With the right chip you should feel an improvement but the only way to get your fuelling spot on across the rev range is to fit a Power Commander and have it professionally dynoed by someone who knows what they are doing.

I ran the SL carbon chip with a Renegade airkit and the Mille exhaust system (I think Geo still has this set up) and it was great, pulled like a train right across the rev range

F9

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#5 Post by Pierre » Fri May 11, 2007 8:40 pm

Mine didnt seem very secure and like you said , i didnt want to put silicone on so glued a bit of foam on top , so when the top shut it kept pressure on. Hasnt caught fire yet :smt002

My chip didnt seem to do anything till i realised it wasnt 'coughing' when going from overrun to part throttle. Worth the money just for that

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#6 Post by Gtrain » Fri May 11, 2007 10:47 pm

A bathroom silicone sealant will do the job as will most silicones just got to rea the label and make sure its non acidic.

A good way to tell if you buy some and still not sure is to smell it once you've opened the tube, if it smells like vinegar then its acidic, if theres not vinegar smell then your right to go
The problem with common sense is, its not very common

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#7 Post by beckh » Sat May 12, 2007 12:48 pm

Talking about which bits the chip will fix, I still have not fitted the one I bought from yellowduck years ago. It is a renegade chip, I have renegade pipes but standard airkit. Do you reckon it will iron out my throttle lag from zero throttle ? Should also help a little with mpg shouldnt it ? I could fit it this week but we are going to to Le Mans on Friday AM. Suppose I could test it if the rain stops :smt013

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#8 Post by Gio » Sat May 12, 2007 1:45 pm

Falco9 wrote:Tell Tale visible signs can be zero, mainly the bike won't start and you don't get the fuel pump whirring

Unlikely to be buggered they are a lot tougher than people think (well in my experience they are)

Probable effects of running the std chip would be minimal as most end cans are designed to be used with std ship, so mainly more noise but similar amount of power

Aftermarket chips usually smooth out the 5k flat spot and are designed to work with an increased amount of air (Rengade airkit or K&N etc..) and a race can to get the gasses out quicker.
With the right chip you should feel an improvement but the only way to get your fuelling spot on across the rev range is to fit a Power Commander and have it professionally dynoed by someone who knows what they are doing.

I ran the SL carbon chip with a Renegade airkit and the Mille exhaust system (I think Geo still has this set up) and it was great, pulled like a train right across the rev range

F9
Yep its still on there :smt003 TBO I don't think I'd bother changing it anyway

gazuk
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#9 Post by gazuk » Sat May 12, 2007 4:07 pm

Fitted it. Didn't put sealant on it, may do that later, just wanted to play.

OMG, what a difference. Not only the noise from the Blue Flames, but the throttle response. Burbles along from as little as 300rmp in third and climbs smoothly and very quickly. The kick int the arse from 7000-9000rpm is amazing. Hard to decide whic is best, the sound or the throttle response. :smt003

One question (as usual), the original springs the secure the silencer to the down pipe are too short for the blue flames, so I left them off. Do I really need them and where can I get some extended ones from?

It has to be the best 150 quid I've spend on a bike.

What I did find odd was the the warranty sticker on the eprom box had already been cut and there was different sealant on the eprom. There was a yellow sticker with 'PAO8' on it. Is this the standard chip?

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#10 Post by Falco9 » Sat May 12, 2007 4:10 pm

PA08 is the std chip

Glad your pleased

F9
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#11 Post by Pierre » Sat May 12, 2007 8:57 pm

And yea, I'd get some springs. I can remember seeing an RSV on a dyno and the headers moved when rev'd. Without the springs youre relying on the can bolts to hold everything totaly solid which isnt gonna happen :smt002

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