Rotax 990 servicing

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blinkey501
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Rotax 990 servicing

#1 Post by blinkey501 » Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:36 am

People are a little unsure on how to service their rotax engine which is fitted to the falco, futura and the mille.
Now comes the boring stuff.......... I will not accept any responsibility if you use this guide and anything go's wrong with your servicing due to inexperience...
If you are not sure ask for clarification.
"Please note. When removing the plug caps they can be stiff and can break if removed to forcibly." :smt018
The bike is a falco for the notes below. The futura and mille may have different seat and tank fittings, with this in mind the instruction may need to be slightly different.
Undo the seat bolts and remove the seat.
The two bolts are located either side of the seat under here
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Undo the bolts that hold the tank down at the headstock, and lift the tank back.
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Under the tank you will find the air box. Remove the screws using a 7mm socket.
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Remove the air filter
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Undo the screws that hold the air box to the throttle bodies. Note these screws sit in a recess and cannot be fully retracted from the air box base.
Under the air box is a breather pipe and a sensor, these also need disconnecting/removing before the air box removal.
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Remove the air box. This will seem a little stiff but it will come out.
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Remove the plug leads. These again are sometimes stiff and awkward to remove.
Using an airline blow off and dust from around the plugs.
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You can use the tool from the Aprilia tool kit but I prefer a spark plug socket (16mm) and swivel joint with an extension and ratchet.
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Change the plugs and tighten to the manual tourque settings.
Repeat on the rear cylinder these are on the opposite side of the motor.
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This tube is a catchment tube for oil in the air box. It also acts as a site tube to show the oil in the box. This will need removing and cleaning.
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Clean any oil from the air box with a clean rag.
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Refit the air box. There is a breather tube you will have had to disconnect when removing the air box this needs reconnecting. This blows warm air into the air box and is a crank case breather pipe.
In most cases due to an expanding tank the bolt holes do not line up with the headstock when the tank is lowered.
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When the tank is lowered remove the four bolts from the rear tank mounting. These also hold the rear plastic panel.
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Slide the tank back and fit the tank headstock screws loosely.
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Using a screw driver lever the tank forward. Replace all the bolts and tighten them down including the headstock screws.
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Replace the seat.
Remove the belly pan if you have one.
Remove the oil tank bolt with a spanner or allen key depending on fitment. Make sure oil catchment tub is underneath to catch the oil.
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When the oil is drained refit the bolt and tighten to the manual torque settings.
Undo the two allen bolts on the oil filter cover., this is located under the sprocket cover. Replace the old filter for new.
A new "O" ring seal may be required to be fitted to the cover before replacing.
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Here is where the new oil go's boys and girls.
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When filling, the oil level needs to be just above half way above the sight glass.
Replace the lid. Run the engine until the cooling fans kick in. Swich off the motor. Leave the bike for sixty seconds. Stand the bike bolt upright and check the level......
Note.... The oil level only needs to be just above half way up the sight glass when the motor is hot.
An explanation to why....... The motor has a dry sump. Over filling the oil tank causes oil to blow up through the breather tube and into the air box.
An oil tank when over full will always appear to be at the maximum level on the glass. Even if you add more oil. Too much oil can blow into the throttle bodies and foul the plugs and cause running problems.
Right folks its here. I have tried to make it as simplistic as possible to the not so mechanically minded folks. If you think there needs to be any more information then please let me know and I will update it.
Last edited by blinkey501 on Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:10 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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Firestarter
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#2 Post by Firestarter » Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:29 am

Excellent stuff mate. How much further on from this is the valve clearance check?
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falcomunky
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#3 Post by falcomunky » Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:51 am

Nice work there Jay. Should come in handy for the novice-owners out there.
Just a thought though: Might want to mention disconnecting the pipe and sensor from under the LH side of the airbox before lifting it off... :smt002
Two is the magic number... ;)

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Aladinsaneuk
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#4 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:36 am

Very good work

Will sticky it when I have full pc access!

Also, add in cleaning around the plugs with an air line or similar before removing the plugs...


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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blinkey501
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#5 Post by blinkey501 » Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:50 am

I will take on board pete what you have said. I intend to also modify the post with a list of parts required when I have the information.
Ie long and short filters. Also how to know which one to order etc. Oil specifications for different coloured framed falco's etc.
The valve clearance check is one of my list to do jobs in the near future. Although I know that to shim the valves the heard have to come off. Eventually when I have learnt how it is done I will post the details. :smt002
The next post will be the futura rear axle.
Oh and pete and john I have modified the post ta.
Last edited by blinkey501 on Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#6 Post by MartDude » Sat Dec 07, 2013 12:58 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:
Also, add in cleaning around the plugs with an air line or similar before removing the plugs...
Remove the plug leads. These again are sometimes stiff and awkward to remove.
Using an airline blow off and dust from around the plugs.
It's there, but not very prominent; perhaps should be in the intro, and highlighted?
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#7 Post by MartDude » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:02 pm

Additional info re Futura : to get at the front cylinder front plug, it is necessary to remove the front RH coil (fitted between the frame and the cylinder). Also note that the HT leads for the front coils have to be alarmingly kinked, in a serpentine fashion, to get them in place.

(Futura has 4 coils, one for each plug, squashed in between the frame and the engine; little buggers to get at.)
Last edited by MartDude on Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#8 Post by blinkey501 » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:02 pm

MartDude wrote:
Aladinsaneuk wrote:
Also, add in cleaning around the plugs with an air line or similar before removing the plugs...
Remove the plug leads. These again are sometimes stiff and awkward to remove.
Using an airline blow off and dust from around the plugs.
It's there, but not very prominent; perhaps should be in the intro, and highlighted?
Mart. These were added after pete reminded me :smt002
But I have altered the intro.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#9 Post by MartDude » Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:11 pm

blinkey501 wrote:
MartDude wrote:
Aladinsaneuk wrote:
Also, add in cleaning around the plugs with an air line or similar before removing the plugs...
Remove the plug leads. These again are sometimes stiff and awkward to remove.
Using an airline blow off and dust from around the plugs.
It's there, but not very prominent; perhaps should be in the intro, and highlighted?
Mart. These were added after pete reminded me :smt002
But I have altered the intro.
:smt023
It flies sideways through time
It's an electric line
To your zodiac sign
I've got a Black and Silver Machine!

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#10 Post by fatboy » Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:58 pm

Nice work there, worth mentioning the engine drain plug plug needs undoing also !
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#11 Post by blinkey501 » Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:51 pm

fatboy wrote:Nice work there, worth mentioning the engine drain plug plug needs undoing also !
Eh?
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#12 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sun Dec 08, 2013 9:53 pm

lol

he is right

two drain plugs.....

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/showthread.php?t=616 has the pictures and http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/oil.html has a good description

oh - and it is in the workshop manual but NOT the owners handbook


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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#13 Post by blinkey501 » Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:22 am

Aladinsaneuk wrote:lol

he is right

two drain plugs.....

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/showthread.php?t=616 has the pictures and http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/oil.html has a good description

oh - and it is in the workshop manual but NOT the owners handbook
Well bugger me. In fact something has just reminded me what I already knew but forgot thanks F/B :smt017 I would imagine though with the amount of oil that comes out of the filter housing when the filter is removed there would be next to no oil left in the motor?
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#14 Post by fatboy » Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:50 pm

Nearly as much as comes out of the filter housing !
Also the engine drain plug has a magnetic tip....
So thats where the 13mm spanner went :smt005

Im sure Im not the only one that did his first oil change without undoing the engine drain plug :smt022
Cleverly disguised as an adult !

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