Clutch

Message

blinkey501 · #1 Post by **blinkey501** » Sun May 26, 2013 5:44 pm

Just looked at the search function regarding clutches. AFAIK I think the barnet clutch was not favourable for some reason but can't remember why.
The last person to have changed a clutch is HowardQ but I steered him towards these in a thread.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aprilia-RSV-1 ... 20bec820c2
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-Clutch-Ki ... 2ec1f63f12
Is there any bad reports about the barnet?
Is there any reason why we wouldn't fit the EBC?
The EBC works out a lot cheaper.

tommy · #2 Post by **tommy** » Sun May 26, 2013 5:49 pm

IIRC the barnet one had one thicker plate at one point in time and caused some slip. I think this was resolved though. I'm sure I had barnet one fitted last year, and it's fine

Aladinsaneuk · #3 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sun May 26, 2013 7:08 pm

I think that many would also suggest the Barnett is overkill - save the cash for an Oberon or motopike clutch slave

D-Rider · #4 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun May 26, 2013 8:52 pm

Certainly remember that the Barnett gave a heavy clutch action - if anything else comes to mind I'll add that later.

flatlander · #5 Post by **flatlander** » Sun May 26, 2013 9:57 pm

if my memory serves correctly, The springs are heavier than stock and you need an after market clutch slave cylinder to lighten the clutch action again. There were reports of excessive clutch drag on the earlier design. The later clutch pack came with revised bits

I used the search function and found this

http://www.jahlis.net/ars/viewtopic.php ... 3370eecac3

the I used google and found this

http://www.bikersoracle.com/rsv/forum/s ... php?t=5007
http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/clutch.html

blinkey501 · #6 Post by **blinkey501** » Mon May 27, 2013 6:46 am

flatlander wrote:if my memory serves correctly, The springs are heavier than stock and you need an after market clutch slave cylinder to lighten the clutch action again. There were reports of excessive clutch drag on the earlier design. The later clutch pack came with revised bits

I used the search function and found this

http://www.jahlis.net/ars/viewtopic.php ... 3370eecac3

the I used google and found this

http://www.bikersoracle.com/rsv/forum/s ... php?t=5007
http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/clutch.html

Nice bit of info there Geoff. Thanks

#7 Post by **Kwackerz** » Mon May 27, 2013 7:42 am

and that

http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/clutch2.html

mixing the springs

HowardQ · #8 Post by **HowardQ** » Mon May 27, 2013 10:02 pm

In the end I never changed mine Jay!
It was a bit strange, it briefly started to slip at that time, a bit like when it last had fully synth oil in it 25K miles ago.
I went out twice with it like that and decided I needed to at least roughen up the plates and maybe try the stronger springs, otherwise the plan was to fit a Barnett clutch.
Had another run out and it was OK and has been ever since. (!?!?!?).
So still on original clutch at almost 35K miles and pulling as strong as ever.
(Should I be saying this??)

blinkey501 · #9 Post by **blinkey501** » Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:53 pm

Can you remove the clutch to roughen the plates by removing the outer casing where the diaphragm is inserted.

Or does the full side casing have to come off?

spiderwheels · #10 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:14 pm

blinkey501 wrote:Can you remove the clutch to roughen the plates by removing the outer casing where the diaphragm is inserted.

Or does the full side casing have to come off? :smt017

Yes you can take the plates out after removing the diaphragm

blinkey501 · #11 Post by **blinkey501** » Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:28 pm

spiderwheels wrote:
blinkey501 wrote:Can you remove the clutch to roughen the plates by removing the outer casing where the diaphragm is inserted.

Or does the full side casing have to come off?
Yes you can take the plates out after removing the diaphragm

Thanks mate.

D-Rider · #12 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun Jul 30, 2017 8:55 pm

Thought that was probably the case but wasn't sure. Never had the clutch out but did have to replace the diaphragm the other week.

spiderwheels · #13 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sun Jul 30, 2017 9:16 pm

D-Rider wrote:Thought that was probably the case but wasn't sure. Never had the clutch out but did have to replace the diaphragm the other week.

I had to inspect the diaphragm a while ago and thought I'd check the plates while I was at it as they were easy enough to get at. Then I wished I hadn't as the metal plates turned out to be anything but flat. But it still seems to work..

blinkey501 · #14 Post by **blinkey501** » Mon Jul 31, 2017 4:53 am

spiderwheels wrote:
D-Rider wrote:Thought that was probably the case but wasn't sure. Never had the clutch out but did have to replace the diaphragm the other week.
I had to inspect the diaphragm a while ago and thought I'd check the plates while I was at it as they were easy enough to get at. Then I wished I hadn't as the metal plates turned out to be anything but flat. But it still seems to work..

I picked up what I thought was a bargain the other week.

I fitted a new starter motor to then hear a rumble in the stator side casing.

Who ever fitted the sprag clutch did not tighten the bolts that hold the sprag in place enough.

One of the cap head screws sheared and mutilated the stator. The fly wheel was all dented and damaged.

The flywheel was fitted without Loctite. So I have had to replace them both.

Clutch is slipping so going to rough the steels up.

I will get there eventually!!!!!

It's a good job I love these bikes.

D-Rider · #15 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Jul 31, 2017 10:43 am

Ouch.
That's not a nice surprise to discover