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sabestian · #16 Post by **sabestian** » Thu May 24, 2007 7:13 am

Call the alarm's helpline and ask for the way to bypass it. You'll know if that's the troublemaker in minutes.

Falcopops · #17 Post by **Falcopops** » Thu May 24, 2007 7:14 am

When you started it off the jump leads how well did the starter run?

Falcopops · #18 Post by **Falcopops** » Thu May 24, 2007 7:21 am

something that just came to mind. I was looking at the wiring diagram and the only other player I can see in the wiring is the Diode module.

Now I've no idea what the hell it does, but if you can swap yours for Falcoholics and try it out to see what happens you can either discount it or not.

Part 4 in the diagram

Falcoholic · #19 Post by **Falcoholic** » Thu May 24, 2007 8:14 am

Had a look see last night. Strangest thing

The solenoid, a nice new Yamaha one just clicks away like a wee clicky thing.

battery volts read 13.8 or summat and on trying to start it will turn the engine then just drops out and clicks away again. But the voltage drop in the battery after a starting attempt is quite high. It just might be the battery. I said just might.

Although I would suggest the alarm should go in the bin and the positive battery cable be renewed cos it's been spliced to allow the f***ing alarm to be connected.

I could always take my battery along and give it a whizz later on tonight. Could take the diode too if someone will tell me WTF it does.

We shall not be beaten.

Mind you it's a yeller one so it'll probably only go dead slow when it does eventually go.

mellow yellow · #20 Post by **mellow yellow** » Thu May 24, 2007 12:47 pm

Mind you it's a yeller one so it'll probably only go dead slow when it does eventually go.

If this keeps up much longer it will definately go! Never to return

D-Rider · #21 Post by **D-Rider** » Thu May 24, 2007 1:02 pm

Falcoholic wrote:

battery volts read 13.8 or summat and on trying to start it will turn the engine then just drops out and clicks away again. But the voltage drop in the battery after a starting attempt is quite high. It just might be the battery. I said just might.

Measuring battery terminal voltage when it is not under load is not a good guide to battery condition.
If the battery is not in good nick, it could have a high internal resistance - with little current flowing, there will be little voltage drop and the terminal voltage will not change much.
The moment the starter motor is connected, a large current will flow and the terminal voltage will drop - which could make the solenoid drop out. This will almost certainly happen too quickly for you to notice using a voltmeter. When you measure it statically again, you'll see the same terminal voltage.
Quickest way to eliminate this is to borrow Falcoholic's battery to see if it works. Given that it did start with a jump start, I'd not be surprised if his battery starts it.

Of course, he'll have to reset all his clocks again after you give him his battery back ....

mellow yellow · #22 Post by **mellow yellow** » Thu May 24, 2007 1:05 pm

Of course, he'll have to reset all his clocks again after you give him his battery back ....

Which would serve him right for his 'yellow' comment

D-Rider · #23 Post by **D-Rider** » Thu May 24, 2007 1:38 pm

mellow yellow wrote:
Of course, he'll have to reset all his clocks again after you give him his battery back ....
Which would serve him right for his 'yellow' comment

I fully support his helpful advice on the subject.
Yellow is fine for bananas, good for custard and is particularly efficient in the case of banana custard ..... but as for motorcycles ......

Falcoholic · #24 Post by **Falcoholic** » Thu May 24, 2007 1:50 pm

And them little quacking things that I've got in ma bath tub

Seriously tho I can brink ma bike and or battery round later if ya like Ian. It'll help ya eliminate summat else.

mellow yellow · #25 Post by **mellow yellow** » Thu May 24, 2007 2:38 pm

Unfortunately not going to be in tonight Andy but will be tomorrow.

It may after all this, turn out to be battery related but I still think something somewhere is draining it. Likely the alarm and to be on the safe side I'll get to work on the wiring mod that seems to help.

Andy, you mentioned you wanted to do the wiring mod too so I'll get enough 16ga wire for both of us

Falcoholic · #26 Post by **Falcoholic** » Thu May 24, 2007 2:51 pm

Yer a top guy right enuff despite what they say about you (and yer bike)

Ok I'll see ye the morra night.

mellow yellow · #27 Post by **mellow yellow** » Thu May 24, 2007 6:40 pm

Assuming it is the battery (although I just fitted a replacement a few months ago

) has anyone got any suggestions of a good replacement i.e Westco, Varta etc ?

Make and model no would be appreciated

Falcoholic · #28 Post by **Falcoholic** » Fri May 25, 2007 9:28 am

VARTA/YUASA YTX-14BS if i remember correctly.

HTH

mellow yellow · #29 Post by **mellow yellow** » Fri May 25, 2007 11:03 pm

Tonights update - Haven't had a chance to try out Falcoholics battery yet so decided to try other things.

Cleaned the cable connection at the starter motor end and re-cleaned the solenoid end again just to be sure.

Also took the starter motor to bits - a bit of a fiddley job but wanted to check it out but all looked well.

So tried to start it up and the clicking ensued.

The battery I have fitted has the number CTX14-BS rather than the YTX-14BS that Falcoholic suggested.

I wonder if this will make a difference?

Viking · #30 Post by **Viking** » Mon May 28, 2007 12:04 am

mellow yellow wrote:The battery I have fitted has the number CTX14-BS rather than the YTX-14BS that Falcoholic suggested.

I wonder if this will make a difference?

It shouldn't make a difference - so long as the battery fits into the holder and has the correct Amperage rating, you should be fine.

(Unless the battery has a vent-pipe - then you end up in all manner of "fun" trying to reroute cables and / or breather pipes!)