Rear hub bolts...

[GregD-UK]

Hi all,

Here we go, I am in the proces of fitting a mille swingarm, powder coated black for effect! I was duly cleaning my rear wheel and noticed that my cush bolts were loose! I took wheel off and retighted them adding blue thread lock. Two weeks later, washing again bolts loose only three this time, but, worse still, a bolt nut has sheared off

When I redone the bolts the first time I did notice that the rear spindle nut spacer was spinning with wheel. I duly, retightened to the required spec as per the torque setting. And I regreased the wheel spindle which did shows signs of wear + tear, maybe when the tyre fitter didn't tighten it properly, and this is a professional guy....

There is a 16 front anf 43 back sprocket fitted, back being a stealth sprocket, there was wear on the aluminum where the bolts have turned and scrapped th gold finish and some collapse on the one that sheared off! My concern is that I need a new rear sprocket and have bought 5 new cush bolts. I took the rear cush drive to my local aprilia/ducati specialist and he said that it was knackered in the production process and not with excessive use...

I am worried that there is something wrong with either my sprockets, wheel or cush drive! Before I fit my new mille swingarm I don't want to buy all new sprockets, cush drive, maybe have the same problem

Any help would be appreciated....

[Falco9]

These bolts do have a history of coming loose, but as you retightened and used Blue loctite I'm amazed they came loose again. Which loctite did you use and did you use enough of it I wonder? I'd also check the bolts that fasten the cush drive unit to the wheel because these come loose a lot as well (unless you have forged wheels which are a direct mount)

I can't imagine how even a Ducati / Aprilia specialist would be able to tell on old / sheared bolts that they were not up to spec, and were damaged during production. However I'd check the wheel when you fit the new cush drive bolts, they need to be a firm, tight fit in the wheel holes. If not then the play will cause the new cush drive to fail prematurely as well. I'd imagine that the actual cush drive units in the wheel may well be worn which has allowed the bolts to twist a little and hence the sheared off nut

If they are knackered then once you've replaced them and provided that the cush drive bolts fit well and are fitted correctly (use Loctite 270 if in doubt, although I always use 243 and it's been perfectly fine on all my bikes) and everything is torqued up to the right settings, you should be fine.

I think I have a spare rear wheel spindle in the garage if you need another one

Hope this helps

F9

[GregD-UK]

H F9,

Thankx for the advice, I might replace the cush rubbers as well then! Do I need to put loctite in the cush rubber housings? I think the problem was that the wheel wasn't torqued up properly and maybe my chain might need checking exactly, I check that I have 25mm play before I go out.

My stealth rear sprocket needs replacing, pity it was a bling, do you think Ishould revert to a steel one? Thanks for the offer on the spindle mate

[Falco9]

I'd only replace the sprocket if it's knacked, I use Renthal alloy ones and there fine for me.

When you get the new bolts put them into the cush drive units and feel for any play before fitting the sprocket, to the hand they should feel 100% solid, if you can feel any movement at all using your hand to waggle the bolt (you get my idea!!) then they are knackered, if not they should be fine. And NO please don't put Locitie into the cush drive housings, it should only be used on threads, never be tempted to put it anywhere else. For Loctitie to set it needs to be airtight anyway.

To be honest M8, I cant remember how much chain play there should be, but an inch or so sounds a bit on the tight side. "always better slacker than tighter" has always been my rule of thumb.

F9

[GregD-UK]

Hi F9,

Got the 25mm off the sticker on the swingarm! Might change my sprocket setup, have 16 front and 43 back... That gives me faster low down but decrease top end is that right?

Got a hyper pro shock for the new mille swingarm

[Falco9]

Hi F9,

Got the 25mm off the sticker on the swingarm! Might change my sprocket setup, have 16 front and 43 back... That gives me faster low down but decrease top end is that right?

Got a hyper pro shock for the new mille swingarm

I stand corrected, sorry M8.

Yes you are right about the effect of your current gearing, I also run lowered gearing and personally I'd leave the set up you have on (provided your happy with it of course) I'd always swap the extra low / mid range pull for the loss of a few mph at the top end. I run 15 -42 at the mo on the T and I might even go to a 15-43 set up this year.

New shock sounds sooooooooooo nice, remember to post up some pics once you have the conversion finished

F9

[GregD-UK]

Hi F9,

Yes, I was gonna go 15 + 43 to try and get rid of the clutch slip that i get. Ur gearing does it make much difference? The swingarm will happen when it gets warmer so I can handle my tools in the garage cold so cold

Yes, pics will follow with the new front led indicators on the new mirrors A plenty to do before the proper ride out. Wish I had enuff pennies for some oz wheels.....

Well, shall catch u all later, cheers....