16 ohm and 10 watt
wire them in parallel, ie where your connectors are, bridge across = no problems
with my early falco i only needed two on the rears indicators - none on the front, with the standard flasher unit
if i did not have the "fucking fat bitch from hell" manager I would have not been at work today and would have done the picture - any one looking to recruit a senior nurse? am going to tell them to fuck off on monday, and exercise my right to leave immediatly - is small minded, petty etc, but i really do want to leave the fat whingebag in the shit
LED Indicator resistors
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- Aladinsaneuk
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just a thought ? if i fit four led indicators ,,,is there a relay that will just slot in to compisate ,, iv read alot abot these led surly its not that simpleD-Rider wrote:Just not an elegant solution fudging the LEDs to simulate the current draw of bulbs in order to make the relay work properly. Don't like relays that set time intervals by how long it takes for a bi-metallic strip to heat up, bend and make a contact - an electronic timer circuit is much nicer. Also you're not throwing away electrical power as heat in the resistors. Yeah - overall it's not a big deal but just goes against the grain.sabestian wrote:Why does almost everyone try to avoid resistors in the circuit? Are they bad or what? I've got them and works just fine...
- DavShill
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Job done - thanks Aladinsane. Just need to tidy up the wires with some heat shrink. Interestingly I had to use the replacement relay though. They wouldn't work with the original.
Last edited by DavShill on Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Falcopops
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Unfortunately it's not that simple Joe. Because the indicator circuits are linked through the dash teltale the extra current racing about the wires not used by the LED's jumps through the teltale and lights up the indicators on the other side.joecrx wrote:just a thought ? if i fit four led indicators ,,,is there a relay that will just slot in to compisate ,, iv read alot abot these led surly its not that simpleD-Rider wrote:Just not an elegant solution fudging the LEDs to simulate the current draw of bulbs in order to make the relay work properly. Don't like relays that set time intervals by how long it takes for a bi-metallic strip to heat up, bend and make a contact - an electronic timer circuit is much nicer. Also you're not throwing away electrical power as heat in the resistors. Yeah - overall it's not a big deal but just goes against the grain.sabestian wrote:Why does almost everyone try to avoid resistors in the circuit? Are they bad or what? I've got them and works just fine...
My earlier post in this thread has a link to a fix for this on the AF1 site, which comprises a couple of diodes at the teltale that act as gates to block this.