Futura fails to start
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- Apriliabas
- Despatch Rider
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- Joined: Fri Jan 10, 2014 10:42 pm
- Location: Sheffield
Futura fails to start
My Futura has finally, after many years, decided to let me down and refuses to start.
Fired it back up after 3 weeks or so in garage and started but EFI light flashing (not a good sign, I know). Took it on short run round block and revs were dying/speeding up until I pulled up and switched off. Now won't start again. EFI goes out after initial checks sometimes but other times flashes. Sounds like fuel not getting through.
Checked minor fuses and wiggled 30A ones about, as bit difficult to actually remove.
Bit vague I know but any ideas where to start, with my limited knowledge.
Can I check fuel flow easily?
Cheers.
If Mart is still around, howdie, and I'm sure he will be able to answer.
Thanks.
Fired it back up after 3 weeks or so in garage and started but EFI light flashing (not a good sign, I know). Took it on short run round block and revs were dying/speeding up until I pulled up and switched off. Now won't start again. EFI goes out after initial checks sometimes but other times flashes. Sounds like fuel not getting through.
Checked minor fuses and wiggled 30A ones about, as bit difficult to actually remove.
Bit vague I know but any ideas where to start, with my limited knowledge.
Can I check fuel flow easily?
Cheers.
If Mart is still around, howdie, and I'm sure he will be able to answer.
Thanks.
- Firestarter
- Twisted Firestarter
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- Location: Northwich, Cheshire
IIRC, the futura shares the ecu with the Mille and Falco, so if you put the diagnostic wires together you'll get the diagnostic code. May take a few moments for the code to appear
Last edited by Firestarter on Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Aprilia SL1000 Falco '04 in Black & Red
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- Apriliabas
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- Apriliabas
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From memory on a Falco, so you'd need to confirm this.
There are two temp sensors as you correctly identified, one on each head.
This is the from memory bit; the sensor on the front cylinder is the feed for the dash and the one on the rear sensor talks to the ECU.
There is a test procedure in the manual for the sensors, but if I remember it requires heating water and reading resistances with the sensor out of the bike.
These sensors are highly unlikely to pack up, I thought one of mine was buggered, but it was actually the dash that had failed.
Check that the sensor wires are properly connected and try checking the continuity of the wiring, it might be as simple as that.
If that checks out it might be worth your while trying to connect the ECU sensor wires to the dash sensor, I doubt the wiring will reach, but you could use some spare wire to make the connection, just be careful to avoid shorts and ensure to connect the right way round. If the fault code goes away this could indicate that the sensor is in fact the issue.
You could physically remove and swap the sensors to try the same as above, just takes a bit more input.
Anyway I hope that gives you something else to consider and let us all know how you progress.
There are two temp sensors as you correctly identified, one on each head.
This is the from memory bit; the sensor on the front cylinder is the feed for the dash and the one on the rear sensor talks to the ECU.
There is a test procedure in the manual for the sensors, but if I remember it requires heating water and reading resistances with the sensor out of the bike.
These sensors are highly unlikely to pack up, I thought one of mine was buggered, but it was actually the dash that had failed.
Check that the sensor wires are properly connected and try checking the continuity of the wiring, it might be as simple as that.
If that checks out it might be worth your while trying to connect the ECU sensor wires to the dash sensor, I doubt the wiring will reach, but you could use some spare wire to make the connection, just be careful to avoid shorts and ensure to connect the right way round. If the fault code goes away this could indicate that the sensor is in fact the issue.
You could physically remove and swap the sensors to try the same as above, just takes a bit more input.
Anyway I hope that gives you something else to consider and let us all know how you progress.
- Apriliabas
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Thanks very much, will do.
Next question; what's the best way to get to them, tank up and airbox off or side panels?
Sorry to sound like a bit of a numpty.
Used to be fine working on old British bikes when I first started riding but they were dead simple to work on, not like modern bikes where everything needs special tools.
Ta again.
Next question; what's the best way to get to them, tank up and airbox off or side panels?
Sorry to sound like a bit of a numpty.
Used to be fine working on old British bikes when I first started riding but they were dead simple to work on, not like modern bikes where everything needs special tools.
Ta again.
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Well, found sensor tucked away. Guess Italians think everyone has got long thin fingers. Anyway, whoever wired the rear sensor must have had a black sense of humour or was an idiot because you couldn't wish for a shorter, badly routed pair of wires. Decided in the end to just move wires as best I could to avoid being trapped against head and plastic tied them. Hey presto, no more flashing EFI and return code of 1 on dash!
Sorted (for the time being). Bike fired up ok and running ok.
Now, just got to bleed clutch hydraulics. Now where's that bleed nipple? Ah, rats! Those damned Italians sure know how to make life difficult!
Thanks for everyone's help. Much appreciated.
Sorted (for the time being). Bike fired up ok and running ok.
Now, just got to bleed clutch hydraulics. Now where's that bleed nipple? Ah, rats! Those damned Italians sure know how to make life difficult!
Thanks for everyone's help. Much appreciated.