pig iron are they?randomsquid wrote:I agree, but my pipes are browned rather than blued and they look a bit gash.Gio wrote:I'd like to know what's wrong with blued pipes, I think they look very nice!
Cleaning tarnished stainless exhausts
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randomsquid
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304 supposedly. Definitely on the cheap side. I might borrow some Scotchbrite from work and rub them a bit, see what happens.Gio wrote:pig iron are they?randomsquid wrote:I agree, but my pipes are browned rather than blued and they look a bit gash.Gio wrote:I'd like to know what's wrong with blued pipes, I think they look very nice!
Where ever I lay my hat.....
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BikerGran
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There I was, cleaning my sink - my stainless steel sink (oh yes, even we wine-swillin', free-ridin', outdoor livin' bikin' trikin' birds have to do mundane stuff like that) - with a wonderful product called 'Shinysinks'. And I thought, I wonder if anyone has tried ussing this for cleaning stainless exhausts?
I'm generally not very big on using branded products as there's mostly something cheaper that does the job - but this stuff is amazing! It removes all the usual discolouration from tea slops etc AND limescale, and leaves the sink looking like new!
Of course I don't know what's in it - the only ingredient that's listed is the one which could be harmful to people and that's Citric Acid Monohydrate.
They also make a product called Cook Brite for which the blurb says
I'm generally not very big on using branded products as there's mostly something cheaper that does the job - but this stuff is amazing! It removes all the usual discolouration from tea slops etc AND limescale, and leaves the sink looking like new!
Of course I don't know what's in it - the only ingredient that's listed is the one which could be harmful to people and that's Citric Acid Monohydrate.
They also make a product called Cook Brite for which the blurb says
Makes you think - but who'll be the bravest and first to try it on theior precious exhaust?Mirrored stainless steel pots and pans are hard to clean, but take on an unbeatable sheen with Shine Brite. This remarkable cream is specially formulated to clean and polish the highest grade of stainless steel.
It is particularly ideal for removing blueing or rainbow tinges caused by mineral or salt deposits in cooking, white spots from hard water deposits and yellow-brown tinges. It also cleans brushed steel items such as kettles or toasters.
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longracinginc
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mangocrazy
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Brasso good, steel wool bad. If you use steel wool (of whatever grade) you're leaving minute amounts of mild steel embedded in the pipes. The first time any water gets on the pipes, rust will start again.longracinginc wrote:on stainless, use exra fine steel wool and brasso household cleaner. It works great. use some rubber gloves though. it will turn the worst tarnished stainless pipes look like new!
In industrial production of stainless components it's an absolute no-no to get mild steel in any format near stainless. That applies equally to steel drill or angle grinder brushes/mops.
Substitute Scotchbrite for the wire wool and you're good to go.
mangocrazy wrote:Brasso good, steel wool bad. If you use steel wool (of whatever grade) you're leaving minute amounts of mild steel embedded in the pipes. The first time any water gets on the pipes, rust will start again.longracinginc wrote:on stainless, use exra fine steel wool and brasso household cleaner. It works great. use some rubber gloves though. it will turn the worst tarnished stainless pipes look like new!
In industrial production of stainless components it's an absolute no-no to get mild steel in any format near stainless. That applies equally to steel drill or angle grinder brushes/mops.
Substitute Scotchbrite for the wire wool and you're good to go.
Well pointed out
*makes a note*
Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly
Well, it's done.
Used Optiglanz - thanks, Andy, for putting me on to that - then T-Cut metal polish, by hand, and finished with polishing mops, in a drill, and rouge, guided by a fabricator friend who's particularly good with stainless. With its new stainless spring tabs (also down to the fabricator friend), it looks better than when new.
Before
After
Used Optiglanz - thanks, Andy, for putting me on to that - then T-Cut metal polish, by hand, and finished with polishing mops, in a drill, and rouge, guided by a fabricator friend who's particularly good with stainless. With its new stainless spring tabs (also down to the fabricator friend), it looks better than when new.
Before
After
It flies sideways through time
It's an electric line
To your zodiac sign
I've got a Black and Silver Machine!
It's an electric line
To your zodiac sign
I've got a Black and Silver Machine!
