Rear shock set up

Message

furygan man · #1 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:49 pm

I've cut this short cause it was starting to waffle on. As much as i read the RSV manual for the yellow spring Sachs shock i can't get my head around how it works, i keep reading the same paragraphs but it's not sinking in!! It's been serviced by Revs and set up by Griff, when he was explaining things my eye's glazed over and ears shut down!! When you all talk about the shock upgrades you talk in glowing terms of plush rides

My problem is i have nothing or no other experience to relate to this being my first bike, i just think it should be better than it is

Is there a 'fools' guide/explination that anyone can remember or have posted, i'm in the process of searching but there's a lot of posts to get though

in summary after the recent ride outs i could do with making it a bit softer...it's currently pretty harsh and firm (in my opinion), also feel like i'm tipping forward and putting more weight though my arms onto the handlebars despite trying to relax my body

Sorry this is covering old ground but maybe as i'm riding the bike more i'm starting to ask more of the bike, if i don't get anywhere with DIY soloutions i may ride over Reactive Suspension in York for advice but i'm sure i could solve this myself if i could get over this mental 'suspension' block!!

Aladinsaneuk · #2 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:34 pm

try back off the rear by a couple of clicks - that will soften it a tad - then try another couple of clicks - do that till you find what feels right for you

if the front is a simple geometry thing, then how many rings do you have showing currently? many ride with 4 for quicker steering - try moving up a ring

OH - do one set of changes at a time - and give it a good ride too see the effect.... and a combination of roads/corners... do the same route each time

furygan man · #3 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:45 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:try back off the rear by a couple of clicks - that will soften it a tad - then try another couple of clicks - do that till you find what feels right for you

if the front is a simple geometry thing, then how many rings do you have showing currently? many ride with 4 for quicker steering - try moving up a ring

OH - do one set of changes at a time - and give it a good ride too see the effect.... and a combination of roads/corners... do the same route each time

Thanks- what does 'back off the rear' mean and how do i do it? there's a black dial 'compression knob' and 'adjuster screw' !!

Think there's 4 showing, could have been 3 before it went to Griffs. Don't you need to lift the front up to adjust the forks?...this bit i understand, it's the rear i struggle on. Stupid really cause if have a full suspension mountainbike with rear Fox shock!

Falcopops · #4 Post by **Falcopops** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:04 am

PM me your email address I've got some PDF's from a mag that makes it pretty clear.

Suspension set up shrouded in black magic and voodoo so take your time and as nursie says do the same route and change one thing at a time. Be prepared that you may have to revisit some settings after you've changed others.

Also get a tight fitting hat, helps stop you from pulling your hair out.

furygan man · #5 Post by **furygan man** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:55 pm

furygan man wrote:
Aladinsaneuk wrote:try back off the rear by a couple of clicks - that will soften it a tad - then try another couple of clicks - do that till you find what feels right for you

if the front is a simple geometry thing, then how many rings do you have showing currently? many ride with 4 for quicker steering - try moving up a ring

OH - do one set of changes at a time - and give it a good ride too see the effect.... and a combination of roads/corners... do the same route each time
Thanks- what does 'back off the rear' mean and how do i do it? there's a black dial 'compression knob' and 'adjuster screw' !!

Think there's 4 showing, could have been 3 before it went to Griffs. Don't you need to lift the front up to adjust the forks?...this bit i understand, it's the rear i struggle on. Stupid really cause if have a full suspension mountainbike with rear Fox shock!

....Help!!! Can you please explain which dial (yellow Sachs shock,) i need to adjust.

Do i need a special spanner to adjust the spring adjuster and where do i get one??

Falco9 · #6 Post by **Falco9** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:10 pm

The most important thing to do first is to set your "static sag" this essentially makes sure the bike is balanced and you have the correct amount of preload on the front & rear suspension for you personally (I always set my sag with my riding gear on although its not accurate to a millimeter)
Once this is done you can use the pdf files that Dale is sending to get a "base" setting for the supsension settings. Then follow Aladins advice by going out for a few rides and making one adjustment at a time till the bike feels right for you. This is very important as what "feels" right for one rider won't for another of course. Bikes and the way we have them set up is always a very personal thing

Settting the sag instructions below:-

Measuring: Preload on the spring/springs is very important,
because it affects the height of the motorcycle
and the fork angle. Consequently, handling characteristics
can be changed, even negatively.

Proceed as follows (it will be much easier if done
by two persons):

A Place the motorcycle on a stand.
B Lift up the rear end to a fully extended
position.
C Measure the distance, eg, from the
lower edge of the rear mud guard or
from a point marked by a piece of
tape, immediately above the rear wheel
axle, to the wheel axle. (R1)
D Make a similar measurement on the front
axle, e.g., from the bottom of the upper
fork crown to the front wheel axle.
The fork must also be fully extended. (F1)
E Allow the motorcycle (without rider) to
apply load on the springs and repeat
the measuring procedure. (R2, F2)
F Then take the same measurements
with the rider and equipment on the
motorcycle. It is important that the
rider has a correct riding posture,
so that the weight is balanced on the
front and rear wheel in the same way
as when riding. (R3, F3)

The measurements may not differ from the
following sizes:

Without rider:
Rear: 5-10 mm (R1-R2)
Front: 25-30 mm (F1-F2)

With rider:
Rear: 30-40 mm (R1-R3)
Front: 35-48 mm (F1-F3

These are the instructions taken from the Ohlins manual and the ones I always use

Hope this helps mate

F9

furygan man · #7 Post by **furygan man** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:23 pm

Thanks but don't think i'll ever get my head around this, the whole thing was set up by Griff but just seems really firm and bumpy at the back, i appreciate the help but the terminology just isn't sinking in so if it's not a simple turn of one of the dials then i'll have to make an appointment with a suspension guy...i thought buying the yellow Sachs would be an improvment

Falco9 · #8 Post by **Falco9** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:29 pm

Setting the sag and making a few adjustments can sound complicated but actually only takes about 5-10 mins to do. If your passing on the bike, pop in for a brew and we can sort it out together no problem. You know where I am

F9