Epic bike holiday pics and write up.

Where to go, where to stay and how to get there. Share your touring tips and ask for advice here.

Moderators: Aladinsaneuk, MartDude, D-Rider, Moderators

Post Reply
Message
Author
User avatar
Nooj
GP Racer
GP Racer
Posts: 2718
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:06 pm
Location: Newbury, Berkshire

Epic bike holiday pics and write up.

#1 Post by Nooj » Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:53 pm

Anyone from here who goes on the AF1 Falco forum will probably have seen this already, so they can sod off now and get on with some housework or something. All the rest of you, open a cold one, sit back and enjoy the sights.

Part one:

Leaving the country. Easy enough. Get packed on Saturday, then set off mid morning Sunday for an easy ride along some nice roads to catch the Eurotunnel train. Except we didn’t pack until Sunday morning and had to do a motorway dash to get there on time, but we did get there and boarded the train without a problem. I was getting prepared for a long and boring journey, but it only took about half an hour once the train got moving. A remarkably efficient service so I can only assume that the French are in charge of running it.

It was halfway under the English Channel that we realized we may not make the Motorail train in time. Not really being a seasoned traveler, when I booked the tickets I was sitting in England using an English web page, so assumed the times listed would be English times like the Eurotunnel. Nope, they were Continental times (yes, it’s obvious now), an hour ahead of us. Oops! We got to France and promptly legged it off to try and find the Motorail terminal which is actually in Calais town, a good ten minutes ride from the Eurotunnel terminal if you know where you’re going, which we didn’t.

Eventually we found it. After a bit of explaining and negotiating we were told that unfortunately we were too late to get the bikes put on. We’d missed our slot by minutes, most annoying. However, they could put us onto the next train which would be going to Narbonne rather than Nice, so all was not lost.


Image
Anzac and Mrs. Anzac’s bikes lashed down onto the train we missed.

The sleeper train was interesting, not something we’d done before. It did have a kind of James Bond appeal to it, but there were no acts of international espionage or murders that we were aware of. So we arrived at Narbonne the following day rather than Nice, with an extra 258 miles to do to get back on track.

It was hot, up in the high thirties. Certainly too hot for Debz as she got quite ill and had to have a stop after 100 miles or so to get back down to an acceptable operating temperature. After that at every petrol stop we bought two litres of water, drank half and tipped the rest into our lids and leathers to keep cool. We weren’t going to get to Florence that night, so we pulled into Marina di Carrera at about 9pm, found a hotel and booked in.

The next day was a bit easier with only 98 miles to do, so we had a late start and a bimble down to Pisa before heading East to Florence.

Image
There’s always somewhere to park your bike in Italy (My Falco on the left, Debz' Tuono on the right).

Image
Last time I was there, no one was allowed to climb the tower, this time people were going up it. We decided that climbing it in bike gear was not a good idea.

And so onto Florence. It was good to see it again after nearly 16 years and fun showing Debz around as she’d not been before. We got settled into the hotel, had a shower and went out for a night on the town. As we were a day late we didn’t have as much time as we’d have liked, so stuck to the main tourist sites.

Image
Again, no shortage of bike parking in Italy.

Image
Old and new building seamlessly blended together, something we desperately need to learn how to do in the UK.

Image
Sun setting over the river Arno from the Ponte Vecchio.

Image

Image
Buskers on the Ponte Vecchio. A guitar, a violin and two voices playing Italian songs and occasional Radiohead covers.

Image
Some dodgey paedo statue.

This summer has been exceptionally good for Italian mosquitoes, we were lunch it seemed, collecting about twenty big bites between us. Very itchy. The next day was spent getting bitten again, investigating the Duomo, the jaw-droppingly impressive cathederal towering over the rest of the city, the Bolboli Gardens and a quick look round the Galleria dell'Accademia to have a point and a snigger at David's willy.

Image
538 years old and still the largest masonry dome in the world.

Image
3600 square metres of painted surface, Heaven at the top, Hell at the bottom, everything else in the middle.

Image
Some demons having fun torturing a naughty person.

Image
110 metres (350 feet approx) up above the streets of Florence.

Image
Looking over the old medieval city centre to the Boboli Gardens on the hill.

Image
View of the Duomo from the Boboli Gardens.

Image
The rear of the Pitti Palace, the Boboli Gardens form its 11 acre ‘back yard’.

Image
Fountain featuring an ape scratching it’s butt.

Image
New sculpture, very weird, but good.

Image
The Florentine burbs are overlooked by the gardens.

Despite missed trains, mild heatstroke, and being munched on by tiny Italian vampires it was a very rewarding few days, I like Tuscany and Florence in particular so it was good to go back again.

User avatar
Samray
Double World Champion
Posts: 6234
Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:36 pm
Location: Riding round with Sheene and Simoncelli

#2 Post by Samray » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:10 pm

Stunning pics. I guess that wasn't a phone cam. :smt002

User avatar
Nooj
GP Racer
GP Racer
Posts: 2718
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:06 pm
Location: Newbury, Berkshire

#3 Post by Nooj » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:16 pm

Part two:

No time to settle, off again. This time across the foothills of the Apennines to the East coast and Misano for the San Marino MotoGP.

Image
One of the better roads we found.

Image
My huge panniers made some of the twistier stuff a bit tricky as they were acting like pendulums while trying to flick the bike from side to side. Wasn’t too bad once I’d got used to it though, just chewed the rear tyre up a bit.

And so eventually (after leaving our Italian phrase book behind in a restaurant up a mountain and being taken down a couple of dirt tracks by the ShatNav) we got to Misano just in time for it to hail and lash down with rain. Once thoroughly drenched the sun came out and we found our way to the Hotel Antares. Which was great, except that we were booked into the Hotel Antares in Cattolica, 3km further down the coast, so off we went again into another torrential downpour. At least it was warm.

After getting settled into the correct hotel, we went out to see what was where and to let the Adriatic mosquitoes sample some Hampshire blood. The next day (Friday) was spent dodging thundery showers, posting cheques I’d forgotten to send off before we left to people in England, drinking beer and getting bitten by mosquitoes.

Image
When it rains in Cattolica, it RAINS!

Image
Note the lack of Germans on the beach and the rough sea. Didn’t last long though (the rough sea or the lack of Germans).

As we had a Friday Practice ticket, we thought we’d go and check out Misano circuit, see the bikes going round and find a good place to sit for the race. However, Friday had been rained off due to a flooded track. “Ticket no good, maybe good tomorrow.” So back we went to Cattolica, it’s beer and it’s mosquitoes.

Image
They did have one very small pump going, but obviously not pumping enough that it would spoil the paddling or knobbly knees competition later on.

Saturday was spent watching the practice sesh, seeing the sights, walking in the sea, drinking beer and… getting bitten by mosquitoes.

Sunday, race day! We’d found a good place to sit and watch the race already, we knew which bus to get, we’d bought beer and water, it was time to go. Knowing how packed the BSB races get we thought we should get there early. We got there at about 10ish, it was packed out and MORE were coming in after us!

Image
No room to swing a gatto.

Image
Even the roofs of the factories overlooking the track were packed.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
Someone dumb-ass did actually fall off the fence into the razor wire on Saturday, they received little sympathy from the Italian medics.

Image
Obviously the traffic was chaos on the way out, completely gridlocked. Not sure if the Police on duty were trying to stop everything from moving or keep it flowing, all their hand waving and whistle blowing seemed to have no relevance to what was going on. We gave up sitting on a stationary bus and with a couple of hundred other locals walked back to Cattolica, taking in a bit of the coastal scenery.

Image

Image

User avatar
Nooj
GP Racer
GP Racer
Posts: 2718
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:06 pm
Location: Newbury, Berkshire

#4 Post by Nooj » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:19 pm

Part three:

"What do you mean you didn’t put the route into the ShatNav, I spent ages planning that, how are we going to get home now?" Oh well. Out with the road atlas then, good job we bought it along as well! We had a rough idea of where we needed to be and when, and who we were supposed to meet when we got there. This section turned out to be a real adventure.

The first stage was Cattolica to Trento, in the Dolomites, stopping briefly in Noale on a mini pilgrimage to the Aprilia factory.

Image
The bloke on the gate came out with a cross face, wagging his finger, pointing to the pavement and saying something in Italian. Eventually he gave up and went in again.

So far the ShatNav’s performance had been less than admirable taking us up dirt tracks, into pedestrian areas, up one way streets the wrong way etc. so much so that we decided to christen it “Il Cretino”. Somewhere on route it’s cradle died, refusing to power the actual device, so we decided to turn the thing off and preserve what little charge the battery had left, so even if the route had been programmed in we still wouldn’t have been able to use it.

We’d stopped at a chainsaw shop I’d spotted to see if we could pick up some chain lube as we’d both forgotten to bring any Scottoil with us (between my very poor Italian and the shop owners excellent English we managed to buy some lube together with a few additional tools). The shop owner was extremely helpful, even enlisting one of his employees to come out and help check the cradle with a multi-meter! Unfortunately all that faffing meant we didn’t get to Trento until night had fallen and only had time to get booked in and go and find somewhere to eat (very posh hotel, but no food, WTF??). Yes, I got bitten by mosquitoes again.

Next day, Twinky turned up on a rented 1200GS, all the way from Vegas, the originator of the meet and the only person we did actually get to meet! His ShatNav is called “The Dork”.

Image

Getting petrol in Northern Italy at midday in the week is a pain in the arse, everywhere’s shut or self service, but not like the pay-at-pump experience over here, oh no. It took the combined efforts of Debz and myself, plus three additional German bikers who’d also stopped to work out how to get any petrol out of the damn things!

On through The Dolomites to the Italian Tyrol, very scenic! The car drivers weren’t as accommodating up here though, unlike Tuscany and Romagna they made no effort to let us past, more like English drivers.

Image
My current desk top image

Image
Loonies!

Image
I can see an Alp in the background

The plan was to cross the Alps into Austria through the Timmelsjoch Pass, then head for Lake Constance just inside Germany and meet Anzac and Mrs. Anzac there. We’d waited in Trento to meet Twinky so we were a bit late leaving but the milage would still be achievable if we got a shift on. We knew it would be colder and might rain, so we’d bought all our waterproofs with us and at the first sign of rain on they went.

Image
Doesn’t look too bad, the sun’s shining over there and that’s where we’re going.

It got colder, it rained, it snowed a bit, it snowed a lot, it snowed horizontally and got VERY cold!

Image
Yes, that’s the road over there, climbing to a height of 2500 metres and starting to get covered in snow

Every now and then, the sun would break through the cloud and illuminate one of the peaks which was an impressive sight indeed, but as we went on it got colder and snowed more so I didn’t really feel like stopping and getting the camera out, I wondered if we were going to see the other side of it at one point.

The Falco didn’t like the altitude much either, I had to raise the idle speed to keep it running and at one point it did cut out as I pulled the clutch in. This meant I had to do a rolling start on a very short downhill section between two hairpins in the slushy snow. Didn’t enjoy that at all.

After what seemed like hours we got to the Austrian boarder and started to go down hill properly, the road was a bit better this side with occasional traffic, including cyclist going up in the driving snow the way we’d just come down! Eventually we returned to civilization, just as the reserve lights came on and the snow started to ease off a bit. We’d arrived in Solden, well short of where we were supposed to be, No problem, it was only 6pm, but in the time it had taken to fill the bikes and have a coffee, the weather had got much worse, it was dark, snowing more and blowing an icy north wind up the valley. We decided to stay there for the night, finding an extremely nice ski lodge for only €40 for the night! We could catch up with the Anzacs the next morning.

Or not.

Image
Next morning -1C, snowing sideways again

The route should have been awesome but the Austrian Police were closing the smaller roads off so we had to back track and join the Autoroute. Slowed down by the weather again the best bit of that journey was finally thawing out while riding through a 14km tunnel, it only lasted 14 km though. It may have been colder than a witch’s tit, but at least I didn’t get bitten by any bloody mosquitoes there!

Eventually we passed into Germany and got to Lake Constance, assuming the Anzacs had pulled out long before we got there, we stopped for more coffee in Uberlingen.

Image
Germany on the left shore, Switzerland on the right shore and the grey smear on the horizon is Austria enjoying an early winter.

Image
Switzerland from a German flowerbed

No time to rest, onwards though the Black Forest, didn’t see any wild gateaux though. Twilight was on its way as we got to Freiberg so it was book in/eat/sleep followed by an argument at breakfast with a German woman over whose table it was. We’d got there and taken the plates off the table to go and get some food, she’d then come in and dumped her luggage there thus claiming the table in her name. Once again the plucky Brits fought off the invading forces!

Onwards! This should have been a good stretch of twisties out of German Alsace into French Lorraine and indeed it was until we started gaining altitude again and got into some low cloud. With the weight of the luggage my rear tyre was squirming around in the damp as it was and on top of that there was more overbanding than I’ve ever seen in one place. By the time we’d got right up into the cloud, visibility was down to 30 metres, no need to worry about the overbanding up there though because the road had just been top-dressed and was covered in gravel. Under other circumstances I’m sure it would have been a cracking ride.

Image
Approaching Lake Longemer out of the cloud

Next stop: Metz in Northern France. A very nice place with a most excellent indoor market, a pleasant town centre and some, errr, interesting bars.

Image

Image

Image

Image
After a few days of being crammed into and rubbed by my leathers, my bites weren’t looking too good (same on the other leg) so I called for a day off the bike

Image

We both needed that day off, but time was getting on, we needed to get closer to Calais. So a dash across the Ardenne…

Image
The Ardenne[I/]

…and into Lens. Eh? No rooms anywhere? The town crawling with Police? How were we to know the Rugby was on? We’d been living on the bikes for two weeks. So off again to stumble across this place in the dark.

Image
A very, VERY French hotel. Charming in a tatty way with excellent food but over-priced and utterly pretentious

After that, the Eurotunnel and home, including two hours of getting lost in Kent and Sussex.

Image
Needs cleaning and a service

Image
Corsa III coped brilliantly in ALL conditions, excellent tyre!
SHINY BIKE SYNDROME Motorcycle valeting and paint protection specialist.
Aladinsaneuk wrote:andy is having a VERY heavy period

User avatar
Gio
Double World Champion
Posts: 6179
Joined: Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:28 pm
Location: Chertsey

#5 Post by Gio » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:17 pm

There's some right good phot's there but this one made my guts heave

Image

Slime green water isn't what Florence does best. The buildings in the pic are ugly as well, as the Italians have lost the ability to make something look good in bricks and mortar.

Also................................
Nooj wrote:I was getting prepared for a long and boring journey, but it only took about half an hour once the train got moving. A remarkably efficient service so I can only assume that the French are in charge of running it.
I can only guess that your moniker is related to the Nooj fibs you tell :smt018 :smt044

TBO I can't believe you went by train, its only 2 days from Calais to Misano and it wouldn't be that strenuous either as you don't have to do the alps which adds about 1/3rd onto the time.
I'm getting a trip organised on another web site for a trip to Italy next year, 10 days with 3 getting there, 4 layabout days and 3 return, which might incorporate Misano which is about 230 miles from Rome. It'll also have the Alps thown in for interest. so if you want a repeat and want do it the bikers way let me know :smt003

User avatar
Falcopops
GP Racer
GP Racer
Posts: 2529
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:00 pm
Location: NOT sweating in the tropics

#6 Post by Falcopops » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:20 pm

Excellent write up and entertaining too.

Bloody fantastic photos!

User avatar
Samray
Double World Champion
Posts: 6234
Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:36 pm
Location: Riding round with Sheene and Simoncelli

#7 Post by Samray » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:26 pm

I enjoyed that trip thanks Nooj. :smt001

(and the mozzies didn't get me !) :smt002

User avatar
Fausto
SuperBike Racer
SuperBike Racer
Posts: 1375
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 3:04 pm
Location: Sunny Suffolk

#8 Post by Fausto » Wed Sep 26, 2007 3:15 pm

Looked like a great ride Nooj. Superb photos too.

I counted at least a dozen uses of the word late or it's derivatives !! That's the problem with timetables :smt003

User avatar
falcomunky
SuperBike Racer
SuperBike Racer
Posts: 820
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:29 pm
Location: NEUK

#9 Post by falcomunky » Wed Sep 26, 2007 9:25 pm

Amazing.
Two is the magic number... ;)

User avatar
Nooj
GP Racer
GP Racer
Posts: 2718
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:06 pm
Location: Newbury, Berkshire

#10 Post by Nooj » Thu Sep 27, 2007 6:09 pm

It was fun :smt003
SHINY BIKE SYNDROME Motorcycle valeting and paint protection specialist.
Aladinsaneuk wrote:andy is having a VERY heavy period

User avatar
DavShill
SuperBike Racer
SuperBike Racer
Posts: 1748
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 7:51 pm
Location: Beverley, East Yorkshire

#11 Post by DavShill » Fri Sep 28, 2007 7:01 am

Looks like a fab holiday Nooj - We spent 3 weeks in Tuscany last year, it is a truly beuatiful place. Didn't do quite as many miles as you and didn't go on the bike :smt009

This highlight was watching the world cup final in the old square in Cortona.... mad!

Great pics.

lazarus
SuperSport Racer
SuperSport Racer
Posts: 608
Joined: Tue Dec 19, 2006 5:22 pm

#12 Post by lazarus » Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:27 pm

Nice report - thanks for making the effort

User avatar
joecrx
SuperBike Racer
SuperBike Racer
Posts: 1150
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2007 2:38 pm
Location: scotland

#13 Post by joecrx » Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:22 pm

read this on the other side , but well worth another read

Post Reply