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As my right grip didn't work (the left was fine and was hot) the store ordered a new set. They changed the right grip for me, but then noticed that the grip pattern was different to my previous one.

I contacted R&G and it seems there are rev a and rev b heated grips.

I tested the newer ones for resistance. It was 15ohms compared to 8ohms for the older ones.

Due to this difference I switched over to the new controller (red button,not grey).

Been running the new grips for a little while now, but I'm finding that they just aren't getting any warmer than lukewarm.

I only ever run the grips on max. They are suppose to heat up to 60c. The radiators my house heat up to to around 60c - if my bare hand is left on them it burns. The grips barely feel warm.

So can any of you guys with R&G heated grips tell me if

a) They get hot (60c hot)
b) What the resistance of your grips is?
c) Which version of the grips you're running


It's going to be a right pain to have to send back yet another pair.

I myself in the past had DRBIKE grips fitted, on numerous occasions one would stop working then the other...
All i did on the occasions that this happened i returned the job lot for an exchange with no quibble.
This exchange was done at the shop that supplied them and not DRBIKE direct.
When i bought the grips they took my details so i didn't even need the reciept.
I would'nt mess about changing just one

I have already changed the complete set from Rev.A to Rev.B

It's the new set that aren't getting hot.

On the old set, only 1 grip worked.

The shop i bought them from changed them over for me.

Of corse they don't work, they are R and G ones.

Daytona is where it is at, heated grip wise. If i leave them on MAX, they start to burn my hands through winder gloves after a couple of miles.

http://www.sportouring.com/gallery.php? ... hoosen=278

Not sure these are the correct size for the falco, but these grips are excellent.

Dale

hanna's are the first version and are mice and toast - I recommended R&G as they were better than the oxford ones fitted to mine....

Yeah the r&g ones come highly recommended across the web and in the mags.

Contacted r&g, i'll be pissed off if this is another set that need to go back, as it's impossible to remove the right grip.

Heated grips? I haven't got those in the car.

All other things being equal, 8 ohm grips will have the capability of running hotter than 15 ohm grips .... however that assumes everything else is the same.
I suspect the controllers are different but without any info on the electrical configuration of both of the controllers, it's not really possible to say whether one set will actually run warmer than the other.
Sorry.

Quick thought

Disconnect the left grip and see if the right then heats up correctly...

Humour me and try it ;)

Aladinsaneuk wrote:Quick thought

Disconnect the left grip and see if the right then heats up correctly...

Humour me and try it ;)

Tried that both sides. Makes no difference. The grips can't even melt the snow that's on them.

something wrong then.....

i would be very tempted to call R&G directly

Did the old grips heat up equally?

A grip on a metal bar will always run cooler than a grip on a plastic throttle tube.

And definitely ring R&G, they are very helpful dudes.

Nooj wrote:Did the old grips heat up equally?

A grip on a metal bar will always run cooler than a grip on a plastic throttle tube.

And definitely ring R&G, they are very helpful dudes.

They sent me some new grips firect.

R&G grips are actually wrapped over a plastic tube anyway.

I've got them fitted, but I can't detect much difference.

Maybe the problem is the where I took the live feed from. I followed the guide in the technical section and took it from the ignition, behind the fuse box. Who knows if that can supply enough power.

Can't remember where i've placed my bar end now too. lol

wayofthedarkhand wrote: I followed the guide in the technical section and took it from the ignition, behind the fuse box. Who knows if that can supply enough power.

If it can't you would probably blow a fuse as the fusing would be designed to protect the wiring in the case that too much current was trying to be drawn

Where can I find a negative, close to the fuse box?

I've got the positive grip wire going to the ignition feed, the negative goes to the battery. Problem is, i've extended the loom in order to do that, as the positive only sticks out from the sheath by a couple of inches.

R&G do state do not extend the loom.

I've tried without the extension and connected direct to the battery, but R&G say there have been issues heating up direct from the battery.