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Hiya

My boot lock has become tempremental... and so much so that tonight it took me 20mins to open the bloody thing to swap the seat cowl for the pillion seat.

The keys work in the ignition and fuel cap no problem, but its a right bugger to turn the lock for the boot. I have oiled and greased it but its still very difficult to open, with no clear method to do so (usually with a dodgy lock I find it will work if the key is angled a particular way for example).

I don't really want to put a new barrel in, i'd prefer the same key for all three locks but i don't know if the barrel is servicable?

Have any of you guys had similar issues... is it worth just replacing the barrel? Whats a good alternative?

Cheers as always
rick

Grease often is a bad idea on locks of any type as it can jam the tumblers and it attracts more dirt & grit which then makes them stick even worse.

Personally I'd remove the lock completely and clean it out with brake & clutch cleaner using an aerosol type (blasts the crap out) and see how easy it is to turn then.

On some locks you can remove the tumblers and even recode them (I can with the locks on the BMW panniers etc..) so they are easy to clean and maintain, don't know if this is possible with the Falco one though

A light oil (WD or similar) should be enough to lube a seat hump lock

F9

Many locksmiths recommend graphite for lubricating locks. My filler cap lock was getting very stiff, to the point where I was becoming worried that the key might break. This stuff sorted it very easily

I have heard that poor cable routing can make that lock difficult to operate.
It's probably worth making sure the cable is in good condition, well lubricated and well routed.

Thanks for the replies guys... when I get chance I'll remove the barrel and cable and have a look... and clean out the grease! I knew it wasn't the best idea... but I was getting annoyed at it not working.

Thinking about it the badly routed cable may well be the issue... I've noticed its been difficult ever since fitting the ventura racks (which required the rear fairing to be removed).

I'm off on a three day ride around the North Island today so have attached a second bit of cable accessible through the vent on the side of the rear fairing to help opening the seat!

Check that the cable outer is correctly seated next to the lock mechanism. If it has popped off it's bracket, the lock will not operate correctly.

had time to look at it this afternoon...

cable fine (and oiled) and barrel removed from fairing... it won't turn so its the culprit

its a zadi lock... looks as if its non servicable... is it possible to "get in" to it?

prices seem extortionate for the barrel... its just a zadi lock... anyone know a suitable source?

Sorry .... never needed to investigate ....

Its not very well sealed so how about dropping the thing in a bucket of light oil for a day

yup good point will try that... it has soaked a bit on WD40 but only for 10mins or so

i called the stealership here today... $185!!!

if anyone knows if anyone breaking a falco let me know (assuming the bath in oil doesnt work!)

Failing that, take the thing to a locksmith and see if he's got anything that will do the job.

Gotta be cheaper................

When i bought a seat cowl once, it came tith the lock, but no key, asked the guy for it but never replied. Shame, could have been yours!

Dale

good news guys, a good soaking in WD40 and its working a treat... must have got crapped up with lack of usage or something

cheers