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I've been getting a bit of (I think) cam chain rattle recently, especially from cold. It can be heard when the bike is on fast idle at about 2k rpm, and when pulling from 3-3.5k and rolling the throttle on it rattles quite badly.

I'm not sure whether it's the front or rear cylinder, although someone on another forum has recommended using a screwdriver as a stethoscope to hear a bit better.

So my questions are, is there an easy way to determine which cylinder is causing trouble? And where is the best place to source a replacement tensioner?

Replacement looks fairly simple if the engine is out, but previous experience with a CBR600F has shown they can be a bugger to replace if there is a load of stuff in the way (the frame is the CBRs case)

Screwdriver stethoscope is the age old trusted method for identifying rattles in an engine.

Replacement tensioner? Most probably from Griff..

I'll give it a try at the weekend, zip tying some rag over the end of the cans may help too!

Any point in pulling the offending tensioner out and cleaning/freeing it up, or would it be a pointless exercise?

szrdave wrote:I'll give it a try at the weekend, zip tying some rag over the end of the cans may help too!

Any point in pulling the offending tensioner out and cleaning/freeing it up, or would it be a pointless exercise?

In my experience, it is well worth pulling the tensioner out and resetting it. Not had to do it on the falco, but the GPZ tensioner liked to get stuck every now and again.

Dale

Falco tensioners are hydraulic, which is why you've noticed it's worse on a cold engine. Could indeed be sticking. Other stuff to check, what's your oil like? Old and gungy, low level?

Oil level is fine, looking at the service history it was last changed over 4k and 3 years ago.

So, oil and filter change and if it's the rear tensioner (which is apparently easier to get at?) I'll pull it out and clean it up.

Ok, a bit of an update on this one.

After fresh oil (thanks to Opie oils) and filter the rattle stopped, but it's now starting to return and is making a fair bit of noise at idle

Listening to the engine running with the tank up I'm fairly sure the front cylinder is at fault, but access to the front tensioner looks pretty restricted.

Has anyone replaced the front tensioner before? Any tips!?!

Out of my league, I tend not to go inside the engine if I can help it at all.

Until this afternoon I thought the Falco was a pretty easy bike to work on. I take it all back!

First I propped the tank up, removed the airbox and loosened the clamps on the throttle bodies. All good so far.



I didn't want to completely disconnect the TBs, but there is plenty of slack in the fuel lines and throttle cables to pop them off and move them to one side. But hang on, something is stopping them moving....it's the lines running down to the clutch cover, I guess for the 'slipper'* clutch.
No problem, I'll just unhook the lines. Or not, as Aprilia have used those bloody crimp on clamps you have to cut off

Oh well thought I, I can probably make do with them as they are.

I can just spot the CCT allen bolt on the LHS of the bike, no picture tho as my camera couldn't get a clear shot. On top of it is what looks like a coolant manifold with pipes going in from the back and bottom, with this removed access to the CCT should be easy and it's a good excuse to drain and replace the coolant.

Except, the pipes to it are either held on with more of those bastard clamps



or possibly traditional jubilee style clips for the pipes at the back, but the screw head to release them (if there is one) is pointing down so it can't even be seen, let alone unscrewed

I can see no other way of gaining better access, removing the LH fairing mid section and oil tank may help, but probably not by enough to justify the hassle.

Cutting all the crimped fittings off may be an option, although still not an easy one as space is tight. If I do go down this route is there any reason I shouldn't use re-useable clips when reassembling?

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated! As the bike is off the road until I can get this sorted.


*If there is one, it's shit

Furthest I've "delved inside" was to remove the front cam cover ..... it was a bit of a pig to get at.

As for those hose clips, you can spring them off and then replace them with jubilee clips .... mine now has a lot of jubilee clips ....

Use stainless jubilee clips as well, no point putting stuff on there that's going to go brown and flakey.

Nooj wrote:Use stainless jubilee clips as well, no point putting stuff on there that's going to go brown and flakey.

..... cue the chocolate teapot comment .....

Nooj wrote:Use stainless jubilee clips as well, no point putting stuff on there that's going to go brown and flakey.

Imagine a Flake the size of your forearm! Mmmmmmmm *drooooool*

Nooj wrote:Imagine a Flake the size of your forearm! Mmmmmmmm *drooooool*

Only if it's in a '99' of the same size

As my SZR660 seized at Brands Hatch yesterday getting the Falco fixed moved quickly to the top of my 'things to do' list.

A replacement tensioner has been ordered (£54), and I used the happy combination of sunshine and a day off to have another look at the bike.

A big screwdriver and the application of a bit of brute-force later, and the pesky clips holding everything together were removed giving access to the front cam chain tensioner bolt:



Upon removal:



it acted as expected, locked solid when full of oil and under spring pressure when the oil was released.

As I was in there I pulled the rear one too, and found some movement in it when oiled.

And so a question - It sounded like the front cylinder was rattling, but I wasn't 100% sure. The engine hasn't been run for a while, could oil have leaked out of the rear tensioner allowing it to move a bit when removed?

At the moment I'm thinking of putting the new tensioner in the front cylinder and the old front cyl. tensioner in the rear.

Obviously the best option is to replace them both with new, but fixing the other bike is going to set me back a couple of quid too!