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Okay a few 'Winter modding questions to be resolved, if anyone can help?

Bike is 01, 11k, original parts still fitted (relating to the info below)

RSV Swingarm (04>) (pre 04...sorry DR!)
Other than the swingarm itself, the hugger, the cable guide and the chain guide is there anything else i need to purchase or can the 'fitting' parts from the Falco carry over?

Forks (Showa)
Other than a basic service is it worth doing anything else whilst the forks are apart, i'm thinking valve/seals/springs etc...worth doing, would i notice a difference? (Getting the replacment yellow spring shock seviced as matter of course)

Chain/Sprockets
Thought whilst all the other work is gettig done i'd get these replaced too, some have gone down to 15 tooth front, have also read about keeping the 16 on the front and adding a couple on the rear as an alternative...thoughts?

Will get some/all of above done at same time together with suspension set up

HID bulb on order but that looks pretty straight forward thanks to DR's thread, the adjustable rearsets at Aprilia performance would be some nice bling but are very pricey!!

There's other stuff but this is the next step for me currently

Thanks as ever chaps!

If you are replacing the whole chain set then 16 front and one or two extra teeth on the back would be (is) my choice.

Mine came with Racetech valves in the front forks which are good but I can't advise whether on there is an improvement.

furygan man wrote:Okay a few 'Winter modding questions to be resolved, if anyone can help?

Bike is 01, 11k, original parts still fitted (relating to the info below)

RSV Swingarm (>04)
Other than the swingarm itself, the hugger, the cable guide and the chain guide is there anything else i need to purchase or can the 'fitting' parts from the Falco carry over?

I don't believe that any of the Falco's plastic bits fit but picking them up from ebay is usually not too hard as Mille owners frequently upgrade to carbon items - all except the chain guide strip that protects the swinger from the chain of course.
The other parts are: Hugger, Chain Guard, Shark Fin

You may need a few tools - such as the shimano freewheel tool and I had to buy a socket in a size I didn't have - it's all detailed in the Technical section.
https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=5962

EDIT: Just noticed you are going for a post '04 swingarm - please ignore all the above - I was assuming the pre-'04 that most of us have gone for.
One of your bigger problems will be relocating the battery and removing the battery box as there is not enough clearance to the swinger.
There was also a batch of those swingarms that were recalled as they cracked - it was not uncommon for the dodgy ones to then appear on ebay - obviously avoid that batch.

furygan man wrote:
Forks (Showa)
Other than a basic service is it worth doing anything else whilst the forks are apart, i'm thinking valve/seals/springs etc...worth doing, would i notice a difference? (Getting the replacment yellow spring shock seviced as matter of course)

I have no direct experience of the Showas (just the Marzocchis and Ohlins)

I believe, like the Marzocchis, they are very good when serviced and set up right (though they are easier to change valving etc than the Marzocchis)
If you are stripping them, it's probably worth changing the seals.

Things you might consider:
Re-springing to suit your weight - assuming the standard springs are not a good match anyway - they may be
Re-valving to suit you

Also be aware that Ohlins do a cartridge kit for the Showas so you could upgrade to Ohlins internals.

Depends on how much you want to spend and how well they suit you now.

Certainly just a service, change of oil and setup can make a big improvement.

furygan man wrote: Chain/Sprockets
Thought whilst all the other work is gettig done i'd get these replaced too, some have gone down to 15 tooth front, have also read about keeping the 16 on the front and adding a couple on the rear as an alternative...thoughts?

15/41 and 16/44 ratios are very similar indeed. When just changing the gearing, the cost effective solution is just to drop one tooth off the front.
When changing the lot, it makes little difference as you will pay very little extra (if anything) for the slightly longer chain and larger sprockets.
There can be some fairly esoteric discussions about better wear rates and clearances from the larger sprockets but in reality they are insignificant.
I guess if changing the lot, go for 16/44 - it has no disadvantage over the 15/41 other that a tiny increase in unsprung weight and rotational mass.

Be aware that with the mille swingarm you will need to split and rivet the chain.

furygan man wrote:
HID bulb on order but that looks pretty straight forward thanks to DR's thread, the adjustable rearsets at Aprilia performance would be some nice bling but are very pricey!!

There's other stuff but this is the next step for me currently

Thanks as ever chaps!

HID is not hard - though some parts can be a bit of a fiddle. I think the most difficult part for me was working out where to put the ballast.

Thanks DR, have no intension of doing the work, so no worries on the tools fitting etc they will be carried out by someone who knows what they are doing

When i was talking about the 'Falco' other bits i was refering to the bearings/nuts/bolts 'hardwear, thanks for the shark fin bit as i didn't realise that was seperate from the chain guard

the whole sprocket chain thing came up on AF1 and someone suggested the rear change to help with clearance from dropping the front one tooth...just one of the reasons i can remember the other reasons, but i know most on here have gone down to 15 front.

...sorry that was pre 04 not post 04, got my > in the wrong place DR

Some time ago I worked out the numbers for these ratios - probably worth posting them again:

Falco Gearing – Comparison of 15/41 and 16/44 final ratios


Standard Gearing is 16/41

Max Chain Bend Radius and Angle Between Links

Standard 16t sprocket:

• Bend radius (at chain pins) = 40.4mm
  Angle between chain segments while on sprocket = 22.5 degrees

15t sprocket:

• Bend radius (at chain pins) = 37.9mm
  Angle between chain segments while on sprocket = 24 degrees

Comparison of Ratios:

• 16/41 gearing = 0.3902 (standard)
  16/44 gearing = 0.3636
  15/41 gearing = 0.3658

Compared to standard gearing:

• 16/44 gearing is a reduction of 6.82%
  15/41 gearing is a reduction of 6.25%

Relative difference in Reduced Gearing Options:

The relative difference between 16/44 and 15/41 ratios is only:

• 1-(0.3636/0.3658) = 1- 0.9939 = 0.0060
  or 0.6% different - so engine characteristics at any speed will essentially be identical

.

From the above you will see the 15t brings the chain no more than 2.5mm closer to the swingarm - though I'm not 100% certain what the clearance is with the 16t sprocket.

The other thing that gets quoted is that the chain wear is much worse as the chain has to bend a lot more on the 15t sprocket ..... though as I worked out above, it's only an extra 1.5 degrees.
Far more significant is good chain maintenance ..... time for another plug for Scottoiler .....

basically, fit a scottoiler while you are doing everything else

(I am not fluent in techno-hinckley but i do understand a little....)

But isn't that more for people who ride regulary Pete, i'm lucky to get out every 3-4 weeks...and it's 'Inckley by the way!!

furygan man wrote:But isn't that more for people who ride regulary Pete, i'm lucky to get out every 3-4 weeks...and it's 'Inckley by the way!!

No more so than all the other stuff you're planning - probably less so.

..... even for those from treacle-town

...you have a point, well open to sugestions seeing as the money's there...is it complicated to fit?

Just been reading posts on Af1 re sprocket and chain and most go for a 16/43 set up but not a lot in it, each to his own etc

I'm going to go with 15/42 next time, up one on the rear.

Re Swingarm- have just checked and there's a top chain guard (long thin), a bottom one (triangle shape), then there's the one that sits/wraps around the front of the swingarm near the front sprocket...is that correct?

Anyone have an opinion on brake levers, mine are scratch and chewed, have seen the 'Ducati' ones on Ebay and also wondered about the Titax ones on there?

..."basically, fit a scottoiler while you are doing everything else"

...any particular one come recomended?

furygan man wrote:
Anyone have an opinion on brake levers,

Yes, I think brake levers are a good thing - I always prefer to ride with them

furygan man wrote:..... mine are scratch and chewed,

Have you tried gum instead? I believe Wrigleys is a reliable brand

..."basically, fit a scottoiler while you are doing everything else"

...any particular one come recomended?

I hear Scottoiler make a good one.