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Changing shocks
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:56 am
by jayboy
Hi guys, anyone got an idiot's guide how to it briefly?
Once bike is up and supported, do I undo the bottom assembly first, or start at the top? I just want to be clear in my head before I start.
Cheers.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 10:20 am
by Firestarter
Hardest part is getting the bike up with no load on the shock, unless you've got a stand that works from the swingarm pivot (or similar) then you're resorting to props etc. I had a metal bar through the frame, support on both sides by axle stands on blocks. Not advised, as it scratched the frame a bit, but it's steady enough.
I don't remember which order I undid the bolts, but as there's only two of interest (and they're both coming off) I don't think it matters much. I managed to do mine with the rear wheel in (was a squeeze), this let me take the load off of the shock by chocking the rear wheel.
Some pointers here (also a good reference site generally) -
http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/shock2.html
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 11:24 am
by minime
As mentioned be sure that the bike is supported and that you are able to take the load of the rear swingarm.
Put some pieces of wood under the rear wheel to unload the linkage.
Now take out bolts. Be sure to take the top bolt of the shock out last so it will not drop down while taking out the rest of the bolts.
Just before you take the top bolt of the shock out remove the wood from under the rearwheel. This will give you a bit more room to manipulate the loose shock, which helps getting it out.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 11:27 am
by jayboy
Thanks guys. Good advice. I just hope the swines send my bits quickly so I can sort this out over the weekend!
Need to have a look at the bike when I get home so i can visualise how the whole set-up comes out.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:00 pm
by D-Rider
Don't worry - it's easy if you follow the advice above. Once you've done it once or twice it really is a very quick job.
When you put it all back together, mind you torque it all back up right - and check the nylocks are in good condition ..... I had a bolt work its way undone, the linkage came apart and a triangle got bent .... could have been very nasty.
TBH I'm still not sure why it happened - I can only assume I missed one of the bolts while torquing it up .... though I'm usually very careful about such things.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:05 pm
by Syltiz
One more little tip.... the Haynes manual for the Mille can be used for most jobs on the Falco.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 3:08 pm
by D-Rider
Syltiz wrote:One more little tip.... the Haynes manual for the Mille can be used for most jobs on the Falco.
And on the subject of manuals, if you've not already found it, the Aprilia workshop manuals are available on Martin Poll's website:
http://www.martinpoll.dk/div_april.htm
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:40 pm
by jayboy
Thanks, yeah had found that site, but forgot about it.
Might get hold of a Haynes too at some point.
The shock has been sent today and should be here tomorrow....

Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 5:48 pm
by fastasfcuk
nylocks should be replaced every time when removed.although i do'nt practice what i preach.but with the falco it's good sense.
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:49 pm
by Aladinsaneuk
tbh, and sorry for those that managed it with out one, an abba stand, or equivalent, is a god send
I got mine for 90 quid with the right parts for the falco - and then paid 15 quid for the screw in parts to enable swing arm removal
if i am doing any work on the bike - it goes on the abba stand as that makes it nice and secure to work on
oh - don't bother with the front lift thing - that is bollocks
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 10:00 pm
by mangocrazy
I Have to agree with my learned fiend above; an Abba stand does make the job (and loads of others) an absolute doddle. And swing arm removal extras are essential if you're planning a swing arm swap (logically enough).
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:33 am
by Aladinsaneuk
learned fiend
damn - he knows me!
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 7:30 am
by Firestarter
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 12:12 pm
by jayboy
IT'S ARRIVED!
Will post up again including pics over the weekend, let ya know how good it is. Only done about 200 miles on her, if that and I noticed that there is oil at the bottom inside the spring at the bottom of the damper rod. Plus my 15/16 stone makes the arse end sag.
Will go by standard RSV settings if this is good? Should I just check the shock length is standard (for RSV) or make it the same length as the one I'm removing? Have found the 01 RSV manual....
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:46 am
by GRFalco
Can't you just take the hump off and flip it onto the seat and handle bars?

and do it upside down?