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A nice run... and a few questions...
Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:44 pm
by dyzio
Hi all,
I bought the Falco a few weeks back and kept it locked until my SV insurance has expired. So I've started using it for (relatively short) commuting from this week.
The commute isn't anything special so nothing to report there...
Friday was a busy day... First the MOT, then some work done: wire mod, started relay, scottoiler. And I've taken the beast out for what I can honestly say was my first proper run...
JEEEEZZZZ!! That was a good run, resulted in around 60 miles, nice twisty A roads. Me and the bike are getting along better with every mile :)
There are 1 or 2 things I need to find out...
I've cleaned the rotor buttons but there's still a bit of pulsation in the brake lever, is there anything more that can be done (use toothbrush, more cleaning)?
The second thing is the battery, I had 1 or two resets before the mod and the new relay. I'm also using a Oxford Maximiser365.
Bike started fine after every stop today, when I came back home, I've plugged the maximiser and after 2 minuter of "charging" it switched to "maintain" mode.
I'm wondering if it's necessary to plug it in every time?
Cheers

Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:11 pm
by mangocrazy
Fine looking bike you have there, Dyzio. But then I would say that, mine's the same colour scheme... What cans are those, by the way?
From what I've gleaned on the forum the received wisdom is to get yerself a can of brake cleaner, a longish M6 bolt and nut and a pair of 10mm spanners. Go round each of the disc bobbins, put the bolt through and tighten the nut on the other side, then rotate the bobbin while spraying brake cleaner and wielding a tooth brush. You will need the official Aprilia Falco third hand (part number temporarily escapes me) for this.
Someone more sensible than I will be along shortly to properly explain the process, I'm sure...
Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:41 pm
by dyzio
Thanks,
I did a bit of cleaning, I've grabbed the bobbins with mole grips, rotated them and sprayed with brake cleaner. I'll try to clean then again later in the week, maybe I'll get a toothbrush as well.
Oh, cans are Blueflames

Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:49 pm
by Nooj
I've grabbed the bobbins with mole grips
Ooooh, no, no, NO! No molegrips, they'll just chew the edges of the buttons up.
Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:53 pm
by dyzio
Don't think I did any damage, but ok, I'll try the M6 method next time.
Re: A nice run...
Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:41 pm
by D-Rider
dyzio wrote:
There are 1 or 2 things I need to find out...
I've cleaned the rotor buttons but there's still a bit of pulsation in the brake lever, is there anything more that can be done (use toothbrush, more cleaning)?
Yeah - try the bolt through the buttons to turn while cleaning it - I think it's important to move it about well to flush the muck out.
If the buttons are all free then you may have bigger problems .... but actual warped discs are still not a conclusion to jump to.
This link may help explain that it could be pad material deposition through poor bedding in of pads and/or discs.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_wa ... disk.shtml
If it is material deposition, people have recovered them by getting the discs bead blasted. Of course, once blasted clean, the pads/discs should be bedded in correctly (as described in that link).
dyzio wrote:
The second thing is the battery, I had 1 or two resets before the mod and the new relay. I'm also using a Oxford Maximiser365.
Bike started fine after every stop today, when I came back home, I've plugged the maximiser and after 2 minuter of "charging" it switched to "maintain" mode.
I'm wondering if it's necessary to plug it in every time?
I've an optimate but don't need to use it much.
If you're leaving it for a while without riding it or if you notice it being a bit slow to turn over one day then stick it on the charger when you get back - but you shouldn't need to keep it on the charger all the time
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:02 pm
by dyzio
Ok, bike left not connected, if it won't start in the morning I'm blaming you ;)
Some other things:
- operating temperatures... my SV didn't have a temp gauge so I don't know what's good and what's not. On a run I'm getting temps around 75-80C, when in town they jump up, I saw 95C today, I assume that's ok? At what temp do the fans kick in?
- lights... I'm thinking about Osram Nightbrakers (don't want to invest in a HID kit). They are H7, 12V 55W, are they for the main beam only, or can I fit all 3 of them?
- last thing, when fitting my scottoiler, I've noticed a tube running from the airbox which had a bit of oil in it, just like on Viking's picture. I assume it's oil mist from the airbox but is this supposed to be emptied or left alone?
Cheers
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:37 pm
by finn
my normal temp is between 68-72, dont remember when the fans kick in, but i think its before 95.... 94 rings a bell but not sure.
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:49 pm
by Aladinsaneuk
glad to see my old blue flames are getting used :)
i have a habit of using the optimate all the time on my bike - just habit - though i have not done the wiring mod!
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:54 pm
by dyzio
Tell that to my neighbours ;)
Just kidding, no complaints yet.
Cans are sweet with medium baffle in, love the way they pop on the overrun :)
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:08 pm
by Viking
dyzio wrote:- operating temperatures... my SV didn't have a temp gauge so I don't know what's good and what's not. On a run I'm getting temps around 75-80C, when in town they jump up, I saw 95C today, I assume that's ok? At what temp do the fans kick in?
Assuming you have the stock fan temperature switch, the fans will come on between 94 and 96 degrees C.
Normal operating temperature depends on the ambient air temperature - I see anything from 77C to 85C (when my fans start up) when riding around.
dyzio wrote:- last thing, when fitting my scottoiler, I've noticed a tube running from the airbox which had a bit of oil in it, just like on Viking's picture. I assume it's oil mist from the airbox but is this supposed to be emptied or left alone?
I assume it's a drain pipe of some sort - it had about an inch of liquid in the bottom. Although the way the bung was secured in the end of it, I had second thoughts about trying to empty it and just left it alone.
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:12 pm
by paddyz1
Aladinsaneuk wrote:glad to see my old blue flames are getting used :)
i have a habit of using the optimate all the time on my bike - just habit - though i have not done the wiring mod!
Good job. You need it with all the riding aids you got wired up

Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:34 am
by Syltiz
Viking wrote:dyzio wrote:- last thing, when fitting my scottoiler, I've noticed a tube running from the airbox which had a bit of oil in it, just like on Viking's picture. I assume it's oil mist from the airbox but is this supposed to be emptied or left alone?
I assume it's a drain pipe of some sort - it had about an inch of liquid in the bottom. Although the way the bung was secured in the end of it, I had second thoughts about trying to empty it and just left it alone.
That is the oil from the crankcase breather tube that vents into the airbox and collects in this little drain tube. You can and probably should empty it otherwise the oil will start to build up in your airbox - it will a little anyway.
Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:49 am
by Aladinsaneuk
true paddy :)
and since i fitted the rear camera and screen it really drains the battery
Posted: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:53 am
by wavey
Doesn't it say in the manual to remove the bung in the little tube after washing? Or is that a fuel tank issue? I recall doing so after the first couple of cleans, not bothered since.
Dave