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Evening all, been away a while (computerless,small accident with a glass of wine ) Has anyone here had an issue with exhaust pipes giving off so much heat that they burn your boots !!?? Went abroad in summer and noticed my alpinestars had deteriorated rather badly, but put it down to their age, until recently I went for a quick spin in trainers and they were actually scorched on the heel. Been riding for over 20 years on various scooters and bikes but never had that before. Pipes are upswept (not hi-level) carbon oval renegades. I appreciate that this area is hot, but this hot at the cans? Forced me to replace my 10 year old boots though

We used to fit heel shields to the link pipes for people with larger feet.

I assume yours arent or werent bought new?

Can fry an egg on the Falco's cans here (no packing) but not burnt my boots yet

No, second hand. May be shield missing, but my feet arent particularly big. The worst boot damage is mid calf level. They probably need repacking as I have been running them for around 8000 miles, think that will help ?

Can you post a pic of your cans and especially the link pipe leading to them? The heatshields are easy to make and fit anyway, fully possible for you to make them yourself, or possibly obtain from Renegade, although it will cost.

If you can take a pic or two it'll help,

The repacking only affects the silencers themselves, if your cans feel overly hot then yes I'd say to repack them, it's easy enough to do yourself with Rene cans aslong as you are careful. There's plenty of info on the Net about repacking Renegades, or i can talk you thru it by email. It sounds like they could do with a repack. I assume theyre really loud?
It wont affect the heat of the link pipes though, that is purely down to what comes out of the engine. (thinking of the heel damage)

actually Tim, care to post up with your renegade info to here?

now that I have come clean about acquiring a pair....

(All being well they should be installed tomorrow.... not a straight forward job as they came from a mille!)

Yes mate. I'll dig out the links I usually refer people to.

http://www.rahji.com/wordpress/2007/05/ ... repacking/

Photographs paint a thousand words. (a great write up by the guy, if truth be told!)

Apologies for it being an SV.. same principles apply

Any questions I'll help as best I can.

waited 24 hours before starting the bike, just to make sure the silicone was all hardened. You can peel/cut off any excess silicone after it dries. That works on the pipes, but I was afraid to try that with the carbon fiber so I made sure I cleaned any wet silicone off of the carbon after everything was reattached.

You dont need to wait 24 hours and you dont need any really special sealant, a decent household silicone will do.

top tip:
If theyre second hand pipes, clean the things out before you fit them. get rid of as much soot build up from both ends while the secondhand cans are off the bike. that way you will have a starting point and can gain info on how your bike is performing by the soot levels and build up inside the pipe (said about that before on here) bottom of the can, lower end revs, end pipe of the can, higher revs. excess carbon tends to indicate a richness, point in the can shows where in the rev range.

Unless you ride like a guuurl.

Oh and important PS.

if youre stripping carbon cans, be careful not to damage the sleeves. They do damage relatively easily.

heat shield (heelplates)

you will need (for twin exhausts)

MATERIELS:


4 Metal Blind Nuts with screws ( dome headed so they dont rip your heels apart)
http://www.accuratescrew.com/info/BlindNuts.aspx is what they look like, but NOT nylon ones!!

4 suitable spacers for allowing the shield to be kept off the exhaust. larger (than the screw) nuts will do

4 spring washers

2 Steel plates (stainless obvilously looks better) or a cut out from an old carbon fibre exhaust sleeve (These will need to be curved to suit the pipe, obviously)

TOOLS:

Hammer and decent punch (to mark the linkpipe so you can drill without sliding the bit evvvvvvvvvvvverywhere like a spider on acid)

A drill (suitable sized bits to do a pilot hole and then the full hole size for the captive nuts) and tools to fit them.

Tools to screw the screws in..

PROCESS:

Drill the plates in 2 places middle towards the top and middle towards the bottom

Use them to mark the pipes in the right place. (where your heel sits against the link pipe in your normal use)

Centrepunch and drill the holes for the blind nuts

Fit the blind nuts

from the blind nut out:

Spacer nut
plate
lockwasher

put the screw thru the lot and tighten.

Sorry! Yet to find a decent pic of the heelplates

Thats about it really.

I will take pics of the plates on the Falco tomorrow and post them up Tim

Thanks guys, repack is on the cards. I had a brief look and there is definitely some scorching of the carbon on the cans. When I think back, I was informed in France last year that I was shedding a bit of molten wadding whilst travelling briskly Going to try and get some daylight and get a picture, but shields would not stop the area that supplies most of the problem, it definitely comes from the cans. Thanks for the advice and link. Let you know how it goes.

Stripped the cans today and the inside packing has moved about a bit. Some scorching inside too, but not as bad as I thought. Worst bit is that I have a crack in the carbon. Is this easy to repair or should I purchase a new pair of sleeves (or new cans) ? Its a case of what I can afford, there is a pair of blueflames on ebay at the moment. Decisions

theyre resleevable, which is probably the cheaper option than buying new, but ebay can be your friend and be cheaper than a resleeve