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Th beast needs new brake pads and chain and sprockets, any recommendations?

+1 - just gone out to realign the chain, and found that's not the major problem - the chain has developed a major tight spot (no idea how I haven't noticed it ), so I'm in need of a new chain as well, so sprockets will be done at the same time

i've just put a pair of renthal sprockets on and a DID X ring chain for a £124, i did,nt think that was bad.

Where'd you get them from? Maybe going down to Demon Tweeks tomorrow to get one and a few other bits

are you keeping the original amount of teeth on the sprockets?

Firestarter wrote:Where'd you get them from? Maybe going down to Demon Tweeks tomorrow to get one and a few other bits

got mine from two wheels in mansfield.you can order from them on the web.

Picked up an Afam o-ring chain - didn't bother with sprockets, they're both still in very good condition (and I've got the 15th front if I decide the current one is "worn" ), looks the part at least

EdinburghFalco, you get anything sorted yet?

Just looking at options right now, what about brake pads, are sintered worth the extra?

No idea about the pads - never had to change mine on the Falco, don't even know what's fitted as standard! (I'm sure I've asked and got answer, but my brain is like soup at the moment).

There's a load of threads about this, especially on the old site (https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=558 for detail on how to get there, or the lazy-man's link is http://www.jahlis.net/ars/index.php), main thing IIRC is to make sure the pads and discs are matched - something to do with mixing sintered & non-sintered, cast discs vs steel - they'll either not work without bead blasting the discs, or will eat the discs, or something like that

mrapriliafalco wrote:are you keeping the original amount of teeth on the sprockets?

A lot of us prefer a shorter gearing (there is a view that the standard gearing was part of the package of things Aprilia did to get bikes through the noise/emissions regs.
I have heard from a reliable source that a lot of French market bikes were delivered with a 15t front sprocket in the tail compartment so that owners could put them back to the spec (it is believed) Aprilia had intended.

16/41 is standard

15/41 is a popular choice (that's what I run)
16/44 is very similar to 15/41 (requires a longer chain - often done when people fit new chains.

Some will go somewhere in between standard and the above (16/42 or 16/43)
Have heard of 15/44 being used - but I think that's far too short.

what are the performance differences between 15/41 and 16/41?

just bought new chain from sprockets unlimited, z-ring Regina about £90, quick delivery, remember, on these chains, the link need peening over with a hammer, DID have soft or hollow ends on the split link, so dont use a common type riveter on the Regina chain, I now need a new riveter, cough cough.

Purely talking about chains for the moment. I have had massive problems with my last two DID chains.
First off I do not have a chain oiler, but look after them pretty well.
First problem was the chain I had fitted to the Falco, this was a DID 525 ZVM Heavy duty "Gold" chain, about the most expensive chain DID do for the road. It was fitted in early summer and treated with Putoline ceramic dry chain wax from the start and at regular intervals. Expensive but my Aprilia dealer reckoned it was the best stuff on the market.
It lasted reasonably well through the summer but by early December it was rusted badly. On a number of occasions it was thoroughly cleaned and treated with other greases and waxes but the rusting got worse. I do use the bike all year round but not on wet roads when there is salt around, (see below). It lasted for a while after rusting but looked a mess and should never been in this state after such a short time.
I have been using DID chains for a long time, (mostly standard, rather than gold), and never had a problem before.
So when it came to choose a new chain for the old CBR, I use most in winter, I again went for a DID gold chain for that, this time a slightly cheaper version but still a DID X Ring Gold chain, but not "Z" rated.
Fitted at the end of October last year.
Treated it like the other, thinking last one may have been just a bad unit, and it must be OK this time. Again used the expensive ceramic chain wax and applied very carefully.
Used it for the first time on one dry cold day in November and one further run in early December which was pretty dry as I remember but there were a few wet patches and there was probably some salt on the roads, but nothing that bad that I remember. Washed it when I got back as I always do but chain still looked well covered by the white wax, so thought it was OK,
Did not use for 3 weeks then got the bike out and the chain that had done less than 250 miles was a rusted mess. Again have cleaned it up with a brass brush, WD40 and other stuff, and is still on the bike, after all it's done under 2k miles.
Now only using chain grease or oil, and it didn't get much worse through January and February this year.
I have a few theories -

The black sugar beat and rock salt shite they put on the roads round here eats chains for breakfast.

The latest DID chains are the real shite and not worth buying any more.

My old Aprilia dealer reckoned he would never fit a Gold chain on any bike, as they were only made for racing and would not last on the road. (interestiong theory now, I didn't listen at the time!).

Ceramic chain wax does not like cold weather and the seal breaks down and allows damp and salt to get in.

I think all these are possible and will not now buy another DID chain until I have tested others like EK first.

However one thing sticks in my mind, the previous Gold chain on the old CBR did 15k miles over 5 years through every winter, (and was not looked after as well as the Falco in recent years), was less rusted when I took it off than the new DID chain at 6 weeks old and 250 miles.
Not sure of the make as was on the CBR when I bought it, think it may have been an EK.
As for DID gold chains.
Nuff said for me.

Torn wrote:what are the performance differences between 15/41 and 16/41?

Best thing about 15/41 is that it makes the bike more rideable around town - low speed manoeuvres (low speed sharp turns) are easier and require less clutch slip as it revs just that little bit more.
It will accelerate harder if you ask it to.
The front wheel comes up more easily - if you want it to .... and sometimes when you don't.

Some complain that at cruising speeds the engine is reving a bit more compared to standard.

Top end I believe is about the same - theoretically 16/41 would have a higher top speed IF the bike could rev out in top .... which it can't (unless down-hill with the wind).
Anyway, who gives a stuff whether it will do 160 or 165 (or whatever the theoretical top ends might be) how often does anyone see those speeds?

One of the 'reasons' for using that lethal mollasses crap is that it allegedly causes less corrosion to vehicles.