Starting problem
Moderators: Aladinsaneuk, MartDude, D-Rider, Moderators
Starting problem
Im sneaking onto the forum at work cos my home broadband is broken... so I have not done much searching on my problem - sorry.
I think its solenoid related. Basically... took a trip to a cold and wet Wales on Easter weekend... and 3 or 4 times during the weekend when I tried to start the bike, it would just "click" and the rev needle would bounce in time with the clicking. Also, the clocks would reset to factory settings. I would turn the ignition off and then on and the clicking would not be there and the bike would start perfectly. I have not used the bike since as I am worried about being stranded somewhere so im in the cage again.
Is this my solenoid going? Or something else?
EDIT: The weekend before I replaced the front indicators with LEDs (and resistors) and put a new battery in. While doing this I managed to blow the fuse for the alarm but I replaced this. I dont know if any of my messing about could have caused a problem?
I think its solenoid related. Basically... took a trip to a cold and wet Wales on Easter weekend... and 3 or 4 times during the weekend when I tried to start the bike, it would just "click" and the rev needle would bounce in time with the clicking. Also, the clocks would reset to factory settings. I would turn the ignition off and then on and the clicking would not be there and the bike would start perfectly. I have not used the bike since as I am worried about being stranded somewhere so im in the cage again.
Is this my solenoid going? Or something else?
EDIT: The weekend before I replaced the front indicators with LEDs (and resistors) and put a new battery in. While doing this I managed to blow the fuse for the alarm but I replaced this. I dont know if any of my messing about could have caused a problem?
- Firestarter
- Twisted Firestarter
- Posts: 1429
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:28 am
- Location: Northwich, Cheshire
Check your battery connections, sounds more like not getting sufficient current through, causing the clocks to reset. don't think the starter relay failing would cause a drop in current sufficient to reset your clocks - if the relay wasn't working, you're not cranking the engine, so there's no current draw to the starter, so there's no reason for the clocks to reset.
-
- SuperBike Racer
- Posts: 1424
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:57 pm
- Location: Mansfield, Nottinghamshire
- exupmonkey
- Track Day Addict
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:23 pm
- Location: Dumbarton, Loch Lomond
Thought I'd re-ignite this on because mine has just done the exact same thing, and I have a brand new battery fitted
. During a 200 mile trip back from Mull, stopped the bike for a matter of 10 minutes or so for a ferry crossing and when I tried to restart I got the same as Syltiz...clicks and bouncy rev counter followed by a pain in the arse clock reset
. Any suggestions?


-
- SuperBike Racer
- Posts: 1424
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:57 pm
- Location: Mansfield, Nottinghamshire
I've had similar issues with mine. Got a Datatool system 4 installed, and bike seems to have very little tolerance for cold starting. I have often had the dash reset on me when starting, especially if i've stalled it. I have done a current test when the alarm is active and it's a pretty negligible draw. I'm getting pretty good at reading UK speed limits in kmh, but it'd be nice if the dash settings would stay put, especially the shift light.
On a side note I have discovered that my Falco starts better from cold using the following procedure:
Push starter with no throttle and choke.
As soon as it starts firing, give it some gas.
Get the revs set to 2000 or so, wind choke up to match, then leave it to warm up.
Previously I'd crank the choke wide open and push the starter, but for some reason it didn't tend to catch.
Due to the faff of getting access to the battery i've fabricated a jump lead attachment which sits under the pillion seat.
On a side note I have discovered that my Falco starts better from cold using the following procedure:
Push starter with no throttle and choke.
As soon as it starts firing, give it some gas.
Get the revs set to 2000 or so, wind choke up to match, then leave it to warm up.
Previously I'd crank the choke wide open and push the starter, but for some reason it didn't tend to catch.
Due to the faff of getting access to the battery i've fabricated a jump lead attachment which sits under the pillion seat.
- Falcopops
- GP Racer
- Posts: 2530
- Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:00 pm
- Location: Back to sweating in the tropics
- Main bike: Still loving the Falco
You need to be careful starting that way. The Sprag clutch in the starter train is a known fragile point and if you give it some gas and it pops back you can damage it. Not instantly, but if it happens repeatedly it can't be good.mmchutchon wrote:I've had similar issues with mine. Got a Datatool system 4 installed, and bike seems to have very little tolerance for cold starting. I have often had the dash reset on me when starting, especially if i've stalled it. I have done a current test when the alarm is active and it's a pretty negligible draw. I'm getting pretty good at reading UK speed limits in kmh, but it'd be nice if the dash settings would stay put, especially the shift light.
On a side note I have discovered that my Falco starts better from cold using the following procedure:
Push starter with no throttle and choke.
As soon as it starts firing, give it some gas.
Get the revs set to 2000 or so, wind choke up to match, then leave it to warm up.
Previously I'd crank the choke wide open and push the starter, but for some reason it didn't tend to catch.
Due to the faff of getting access to the battery i've fabricated a jump lead attachment which sits under the pillion seat.
Try opening the fast idle to the point where you normally have to catch up with 2krpm in your usual start up and leave the gas alone.
I normally open the fast idle untill I see the throttle grip just move, then it starts no problem. In the cold it just needs a little more, but never all the way open as some do. I can't bear the thoughts of a cold engine going from 0 to 3k to 4k rpm with no oil moving about.
-
- Pizza Delivery Rider
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 1:56 pm
- Location: Wittering<>Felixstowe
On a side note I have discovered that my Falco starts better from cold using the following procedure:
Push starter with no throttle and choke.
As soon as it starts firing, give it some gas.
Get the revs set to 2000 or so, wind choke up to match, then leave it to warm up.
Previously I'd crank the choke wide open and push the starter, but for some reason it didn't tend to catch.
Due to the faff of getting access to the battery i've fabricated a jump lead attachment which sits under the pillion seat.[/quote]
mmchutchon,
I've been having the same problem you had, using the same process you did exactly and when my battery is recharged I'll give your reviewed procedure a go. Mine Falco hates the cold or sitting for more than a week, I go out of my way to find her a garage to sleep in when I'm not at home, so fingers crossed.
Push starter with no throttle and choke.
As soon as it starts firing, give it some gas.
Get the revs set to 2000 or so, wind choke up to match, then leave it to warm up.
Previously I'd crank the choke wide open and push the starter, but for some reason it didn't tend to catch.
Due to the faff of getting access to the battery i've fabricated a jump lead attachment which sits under the pillion seat.[/quote]
mmchutchon,
I've been having the same problem you had, using the same process you did exactly and when my battery is recharged I'll give your reviewed procedure a go. Mine Falco hates the cold or sitting for more than a week, I go out of my way to find her a garage to sleep in when I'm not at home, so fingers crossed.
bouncing needles
I had the same bouncing needle followed by dash reset. I came to the conclusion that mine was a combination of low battery levels and possible loose connections to the battery terminals. You can recreate the bouncing needle/reset by disconnecting the battery. Your little needle will bounce even if the keys not in.
I took all connectors off made sure they were clean and tightened them all up. I also make sure my battery if optimized particularly in this cold weather the old lady seems to take a dislike the frost and complains by shedding volts!
Hope this helps
Ian
I took all connectors off made sure they were clean and tightened them all up. I also make sure my battery if optimized particularly in this cold weather the old lady seems to take a dislike the frost and complains by shedding volts!
Hope this helps
Ian
I'm in agreement with falcopops I never had a problem starting from cold except when I accidental gave it throttle instead of fast idle lever!
I always pulled in the clutch and ensured lights are off! before stating this gives less mass for the starter to turn and reduces load on the battery.
Lastly the falco rectifier is a known weak link....try doing the wiring mode to get more volts to the battery.
The blue/brown wire goes directly to the battery vie a separate fuse it gave an increase of nearly a full volt...cool

I always pulled in the clutch and ensured lights are off! before stating this gives less mass for the starter to turn and reduces load on the battery.
Lastly the falco rectifier is a known weak link....try doing the wiring mode to get more volts to the battery.
The blue/brown wire goes directly to the battery vie a separate fuse it gave an increase of nearly a full volt...cool
