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Swingarm replacement
Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 8:32 pm
by FalcoDaz
Hi all and thanks for the welcomes. I registered many moons ago, but haven't posted so much, I do a little more on the ApriliaForum site, but it seems that most of you operate on both, so apologies if you've already read about my latest dilemma on there. I come cap-in-hand for advice.
First a little history. Last weekend I decided check out the 'play' in my rear suspension linkage which my local dealer pointed out to me during the MOT. Not a failure, but worth looking into was their diagnosis. So I removed the back wheel and whilst doing so noticed that the chain adjuster bolts were rather stiff. I decided to remove them and give them a good greasing. Left hand adjuster no problem, right hand one really stiff, so stiff I think I'll... too late, release oil won't help now it sheared off!
After much consideration of the options, the swinger has to come out. I was very surprised at how reasonably a replacement swinger could be found, so rather than hurry trying to sort the damaged one, I bought a replacement. Came to dismantle the shock linkage only to discover that the front bolt on the dogbone is too tight to undo. Access being limited by the exhaust collector. Next (and current) issue is how to remove the collector, it looks like the headers need to be loosened? Which needs at the minimum various body panels coming off! Surely there is an easier way? It has been suggested elsewhere on this forum that the collector will come off with 'a bit' of jiggling. I have applied some serious downward pressure and managed to get the rear header pipe out of the collector, but now there is so much leverage on it that I can't pull the system away from the front header. Pulled the damned thing off its axle stands trying tonight.
Can anybody offer me some words of wisdom about the best way to get the collector pipes off?
Also how have you guys supported your bike whilst dismantling the back end? For replacing the shock I used 2 axle stands and a bar through the swingarm pivot. Now the swingarm has to come off I put the bar under the back of the engine block (just to the front of where the dogbone attaches to the engine block), but whilst wrestling with the exhaust, the bar bent and almost tipped the whole shebang on the floor. I managed to rescue it, thankfully, but is there a better way to support it, whilst leaving access to bits that must come off?
Sorry this is such a long tome, I hope you stuck it out (

) and can help me out. As a younger man I stripped a Z1000J down completely (so I'm not a complete numpty) to have the frame stove enamelled, I don't remember it being half as much of a trial as this.

Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 10:11 pm
by D-Rider
Hi and welcome over to Ridersite.
What a frustrating series of things getting in the way of other things!
It's a long time since I swapped the swinging arm so memory is a little hazy but I supported it with a bar through the frame on some axle stands or something. The point the bar went through is where Blinkey has supported it with straps in this thread:
https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=12391
... which is an option as ling as you have something sturdy from which to hang it.
You will also realise you need a special tool to undo the castellated nut in the pivot. You don't have to shell out for an Aprilia special tool as Shimano do something that fits for their gearsets (much cheaper from Halfords or similar). This thread shows the tool you need:
https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.ph ... ht=shimano
Info on bearings is in this thread:
https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=5295
Do you have a workshop manual? If not download it from Martin Poll's website - the OCR one is best as it's searchable.
http://www.martinpoll.dk/div_april.htm
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:47 am
by blinkey501
The rear header needs to be loosened.
I have found by undoing the two lower nuts and removing them, this will allow the removal of the collector.
WD40 on the collector/header joints and a rubber mallet will ease the removal.
With the rear header loose the swinger will come downwards out.
Check the bearings in the swinger where the triangle bolts go through before replacing the arm
Andy did a write up on what bearings are required, but for ease I will tell you they are Torrington 1812V, I have also found that KOYO also do the same size bearing.
Finally don't forget to fit dust seals to the bearings in the dog bone.
Hope this helps
Thanks for the moral support
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 1:22 pm
by FalcoDaz
Cheers guys for your encouraging words of support. I'm hoping that I can get access to the header bolts without having to remove too much more of the bike! I will check tonight. As for the dogbone and triangle bearings, that was the original intention to see how much play was in them and get them replaced. There was some movement of the dogbone, but it was less than 1mm. Should there be none at all?
Thankfully the weather is going to be crap this weekend, so hopefully I won't be missing too much riding time.
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:53 pm
by Tweaker
I'm hoping that I can get access to the header bolts without having to remove too much more of the bike!
From memory (and it's as hazy as Andy's!) you need a 3/8" drive (1/2" is too big), a long extension and a knuckle joint to undo the header nuts (DON'T TAKE THEM OFF) - you'll be cursing for a while when try to put them back.
Re: Thanks for the moral support
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:44 pm
by blinkey501
FalcoDaz wrote:Cheers guys for your encouraging words of support. I'm hoping that I can get access to the header bolts without having to remove too much more of the bike! I will check tonight. As for the dogbone and triangle bearings, that was the original intention to see how much play was in them and get them replaced. There was some movement of the dogbone, but it was less than 1mm. Should there be none at all?
Thankfully the weather is going to be crap this weekend, so hopefully I won't be missing too much riding time.
There should be no play at all mate.
You will probably need new pins too?
You can access the bottom nuts on the header from the underside once the rear wheel is out.
Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:44 pm
by Chabby
Side to side play on the dogbone is normal - up and down on the bearings (where the bolts go through) is not.
I took up the side to side play with a couple of plastic washers my mate turned up to the right size. They also help to keep the crap out of the bearings.
Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 3:53 am
by blinkey501
Chabby wrote:Side to side play on the dogbone is normal - up and down on the bearings (where the bolts go through) is not.
I took up the side to side play with a couple of plastic washers my mate turned up to the right size. They also help to keep the crap out of the bearings.
You can buy dust seals that are 3mm wide to stop the crap getting in
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanc ... eywords3=3
Making progress
Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:47 pm
by FalcoDaz
Hi fellas,
Thanks to a mate's toolkit (I don't possess a 3/8" universal knuckle) and your guidance, I have managed to get the swingarm out. My mate with the toolkit is also a welder and it confident he can extract the sheared bolt shaft, so he's taken the swinger away.
When removing the pyramid hugger the requirement for the cable tie around the right hand leg of the arm made itself apparent. The grommet which goes into the swing arm and usually holds just the brake line guide strip in place is fooked. It is item 23 on this diagram:
I'm imagining it to be something like this: (image not loading for some reason)
Does anybody know where in the UK these things can be found or what they are called. I've tried Google and Screwfix, but wondered if anybody knew already?
I'll continue to trawl the net, but if somebody has a brainwave, I'd appreciate the heads-up
Cheers.
Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 4:55 pm
by FalcoDaz
Think I've found what I'm looking for, it was a case of identifying what they're called.
http://www.speedyfasteners.com/m4_Rubbe ... /sf139.htm
Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 6:01 pm
by Dalemac
Yes! I know for a fact that there is more than 2 of them ratting around inside my swingarm, as if you push them too hard they will pop straight in!
So be careful when putting it in!
fail
Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:05 pm
by FalcoDaz
Latest question (you'll all be glad when I've got the damn thing back together and stop mithering!)
Reassembly has begun with the replacement swinger, because my welder mate tried his best but was unable to successfully tack a nut onto the stud and get it out. It sheared off twice more, even being soaked in release agent! So, I now hunt for a decent engineering shop to drill it out.
Now the question: The swing arm spindle is a hex nut which I removed using the Falco's own toolkit tool. I've measured that hex key and it measures 13mm but slops around and is so slack I was afraid it was going to round off when I put any pressure on it. Does anybody know for sure that a 14mm hex drive socket won't fit? I'm reluctant to buy one to discover it is just too tight, but if somebody knows their 14mm hex socket fits, then I'll go and buy one before trying to apply 60Nm to the marzipan version.
As ever I am in your debt.
Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 5:07 am
by blinkey501
I am almost certain it is 14mm.
Can you take a picture of the exact part as I have a few spare swingarms and can try my 14mm allen key to make sure?
Oh and ask away

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 5:06 pm
by control_67
I can check mine with a 14mm but this evening if that helps
Re: fail
Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 5:16 pm
by randomsquid
FalcoDaz wrote:Does anybody know for sure that a 14mm hex drive socket won't fit?
Don't know about a socket but the 14/17mm double ended sump plug thing I've got fits a treat. One of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools-O ... 3641.l6368
It's come in handy a few times. Also fits the big nut thing on the top yoke.