
Recommendations for a clutch slave cylinder?
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Recommendations for a clutch slave cylinder?
There seem to be at least a couple of alternative clutch slave cylinders out there but which one works best or are they all better than the stock one? 

I went for the Factory Racing one and it fits well looks good and is lighter to use, I recommend you get the sprocket cover from them as well as it is a perfect fit.
Doddle to fit but I think that goes for all of them
Doddle to fit but I think that goes for all of them
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Harley Davidson....the most efficient way to turn petrol into noise without the embarrassing by-product of horsepower..
Harley Davidson....the most efficient way to turn petrol into noise without the embarrassing by-product of horsepower..
Re: Recommendations for a clutch slave cylinder?
Most of them use a larger piston so will give a lighter feel. If you buy one from outside the EU you will have to pay import tax and spares could be an issue.gramey wrote:There seem to be at least a couple of alternative clutch slave cylinders out there but which one works best or are they all better than the stock one?
If neutral selection is an issue, look at clutch jet/oil viscosity.
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I fitted an Oberon after my OEM one shat itself while I was in Ireland, I also fitted a carbon fibre sprocket cover intended for a gen 2 Mille. The Oberon is much nicer to look at, the clutch action is lighter and it's held up well for nearly 2 years now without and need to rebleed. The fluid is still black though.
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Hi graham
Having used all of the currently available parts
The evo is no longer available btw
Currently I am using a factory racing part
Hanna has the MPL
All are equal IMHO
The factory / motorpike is probably the cheapest
And the cheapest sprocket cover is I believe a gen one tuono part from Aprilia - about 11 quid plus delivery
Having used all of the currently available parts
The evo is no longer available btw
Currently I am using a factory racing part
Hanna has the MPL
All are equal IMHO
The factory / motorpike is probably the cheapest
And the cheapest sprocket cover is I believe a gen one tuono part from Aprilia - about 11 quid plus delivery
Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...
Fitted an Oberon to my Falco with the same 'loverly' light clutch. Easy to fit but can be a bugger to bleed. Make sure you fill the Oberon unit with fluid before attaching the brake line and filling it with fluid from the slave makes life easier too. The original sprocket cover fits straight back on. Worth replacing the clutch line to a s/s braided version. I prefer Venhill as the banjos have a nut to tighten so the line can be fed through and you can get the perfect fit without any kinks before you finally tighten up the whole assembly. I think they are the only ones to do this and the result is brilliant. They're much better than the Fradenburg originals.Firestarter wrote:I have the Oberon one, very happy with how much lighter the clutch action is. Looks good too, although mine is covered (IIRC a Tuono cover allows you to see the slave unit, and is a straight swap without taking to the dremel)
Hope it helps.
The Falco - a gentleman's sports bike; a hardcore sports-tourer; a connoisseur's motorcycle (BIKE Mag July'08)
Only I could make such a pigs ear of bleeding the clutch, I unbolted the old slave cylinder and the bloody piston shot out leaking the residual fluid in it all over the floor. I fitted a banjo with a bleed nipple at the handlebars and having fitted my new Factory Racing slave set about bleeding it.
I tried the syringe on the bottom bleed nipple as suggested but I think the bore of tubing whilst tight on the bleed nipple wasn't tight enough on the syringe. As I tried pushing the fluid up and through the system air was being drawn into the tubing?
So tried bleeding it at the top, no air coming out but no clutch either, started bleeding at the bottom and eventually gave up when it felt ok (ish!). Not sure all the air is out as engagement comes in early than before as you let the clutch lever out and neutral seems harder to find than it should be. My have to bleed it again, bugger!
I tried the syringe on the bottom bleed nipple as suggested but I think the bore of tubing whilst tight on the bleed nipple wasn't tight enough on the syringe. As I tried pushing the fluid up and through the system air was being drawn into the tubing?
So tried bleeding it at the top, no air coming out but no clutch either, started bleeding at the bottom and eventually gave up when it felt ok (ish!). Not sure all the air is out as engagement comes in early than before as you let the clutch lever out and neutral seems harder to find than it should be. My have to bleed it again, bugger!

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I assure you you're not the only one to have goofed this !
Vacuum bleeders can be had for around £20 ish,dont pay more.
You can always revert to the laws of physics, air rises, lean the bike over to the right hand side so the clutch res is higher than brake res, leave clutch slave dangling in the air so the hydraulic line is fairly straight and cable tie clutch lever to handlebar so ports are open to allow air bubbles to rise and leave overnight
Vacuum bleeders can be had for around £20 ish,dont pay more.
You can always revert to the laws of physics, air rises, lean the bike over to the right hand side so the clutch res is higher than brake res, leave clutch slave dangling in the air so the hydraulic line is fairly straight and cable tie clutch lever to handlebar so ports are open to allow air bubbles to rise and leave overnight
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