RiderSite.com - Motorcycle Forums

Just wondered whether anyone has had to replace the steering head bearings on their Falco, and any advice, warnings or tips. Questions I have are:

How tight is the nut holding the top yoke on? (Fairly, I would imagine)
Does the Falco have ball bearings or taper rollers as standard?
When replacing, what bearings did you use, what size are they and where did you get them from?
How did you support the front end while dismantling?
How long did the OE bearings last?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as the answers come in...

mangocrazy wrote:Just wondered whether anyone has had to replace the steering head bearings on their Falco, and any advice, warnings or tips. Questions I have are:

How tight is the nut holding the top yoke on? (Fairly, I would imagine)
Does the Falco have ball bearings or taper rollers as standard?
When replacing, what bearings did you use, what size are they and where did you get them from?
How did you support the front end while dismantling?
How long did the OE bearings last?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as the answers come in...

I replaced mine as "a matter of course" when I swapped to the Ohlins front end.
They are ball races not taper. Taper are available but I've seen a lot of comments that the ball races are the better option.
The part numbers are all listed in the Technical section.
https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=5295
As for tightening, please read up on this carefully. You have to tighten to a very high torque, slacken it off and then re torque to a lower torque.
Removing the nut thingy on the top yoke can be a right PITA as that is torqued right up too. Not a chance without the correct allen bit for a 1/2 inch drive.
I supported the bike using an Ulti-pro stand (like abba) so that the weight was taken close to the centre of mass and then held the front up with a trolley jack under the sump.

Dunno how long the OE bearings last - mine were not worn out and it'll make a big difference if you are or aren't a wheely-merchant - which I'm not and I guess you probably aren't either.

Just replaced the yolks on mine, plain ball bearings - I used waterproof PTFE grease and have never had a problem.

Top nut tool bought off Ebay, cant remember torque value, 80Nm?

Headstock stand can be used for majority of work, removing fairing etc..

I then constructed a wooden frame and 'borrowed' a very solid LONG metal bar from work that from memory passes through the air duct holes in the frame.

Maybe some extra support via a jack under the sump might steady things.

Cover the fuel tank well to avoid accidental 'hits'.

Other than that its just being methodical.

Excellent replies, chaps. Many thanks. And you're right Andy - I'm not a wheelie-merchant. The only ones I do are inadvertent ones...

I actually like taper roller head bearings, but I'm aware that they need far, far less tightening torque than ball races. I notice on another post that Olivier (go-modem-go) changed from ball races to Koyo taper rollers, but that was the only part number he failed to supply...

I was expecting the top yoke nut to be a bit of a tw*t, and by all accounts it is. Slacken that off (and all other major front end bolts) before putting the front end on stilts, then...

Sorry, there was one bad point...

isnt there always?

I had a NIGHTMARE in the past trying to get the inner race off the steering stem, needed burning gear to get it off a 900ss.

Others, I was getting mixed up with my 'nuts' LOL

Of course the Falco uses a big hex socket, I bought a set of good really BIG hex bits sockets from Halfrauds. of all places.

Undo the top nut first before anything else by easing the bars over to full-lock then using a bar on the socket ratchet (or whatever, I actually use the big torque wrench I have thats about two foot long) - old school eh?

iconic944ss wrote:Undo the top nut first before anything else by easing the bars over to full-lock then using a bar on the socket ratchet (or whatever, I actually use the big torque wrench I have thats about two foot long) - old school eh?

Yes - I have a 3 foot length of thick wall steel water pipe that neatly fits over a breaker bar. I've yet to encounter anything that it won't undo...

And agree about doing that first, before putting on stands etc.

just changed my head bearings after 37400miles , not many wheelies. fitted taper rollers from wemoto, £35 for both.very good service as well. actual bearing change was easiest I've done, even got cut outs for drifting out old outer races.
I've got the RSV Haynes manual cos so much is the same on a Falco (recommended)