RiderSite.com - Motorcycle Forums

Hi guy's, sorry for dragging this subject up again probably been covered loads, i have used the search function but it seems full of people getting more problems after doing a tb sync. I never done throttle bodies before just carb'd bikes. I've been using my haynes rsv manuel but i just wanted to try and clear up a couple of things.
I wont be touching the co adjusters as i dont have access to the apropiate machines, so my findings are this arrowed pipe must be disconected/ could someone explain what for,

These are the adjustment screws, how will i know which one to turn and which way or do i leave one and adjust the other to suit, i thought one tb would be fixed and the other would be balanced to match,
and i disconnect the t section arrowed and attach my gauges to there, i'm using morgan carb tune II for balancing.
I hope this makes sense and apologies for asking probably daft questions
i was going to do this, this afternoon but now i'll wait and see what you guys say. I'm hoping i'm along the right lines, but it's the fact theirs two screws to turn, i'm not sure which one to start with and what will happen if i'm getting it wrong
Thanks in advance for any help

Hi woody - there's a good guide on Ken's site: http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/synch.html

Also the official workshop manual is pretty clear on this too: http://www.martinpoll.dk/diverse/Bikema ... 00_OCR.pdf

I'm also wondering whether you have one of the very early Falcos that has the TBs without the take-off points for the gauges and requires the special adapters to fit under the TBs to synch them. Need to compare your pics with mine.

If you have and want to change to the later TBs that do have the take off points, I do have a set that I could be persuaded to part with.

Oh BTW I don't have a CO meter either and have only ever balanced the TBs and not adjusted the trim pots. TBH I'd like to sort it out one day.

I use the pipes you mentioned BUT plug the big tube going to the sensor otherwise the ECU will go into "get you home" mode and will mess things up. If you're lucky you will find 2 blanked off ports at the base of the TB's but if you haven't, the sensor pipes will do just as well

As for the balance, the adjustment screws are exactly the same as the needles in a carb. Unscrew lets more air pass the butterflies, screwing in restricts.

The big pipe you arrowed in the first piccie is the vacuum pipe to the clutch - leave it in place.

I choose the lowest reading cylinder as the reference and adjust the highest to match. That way the tickover will rise slightly which is easier to deal with than a motor trying to stall.

Having said match, I find mines a lot smoother with the front pulling slightly harder than the rear - guess its the 60' cylinder layout not having perfectly regular firing pulses

Thanks guy's, VERY much appreciated. Rereading the link D-Rider posted i now realise the pipe i thought you had to disconnect is an alternative vacuum point.

anzacinexile you mention plugging the larger pipe going into the sensor in the link it says to disconnect the electrical connector to the sensor, to create an open loop, do you still do this? or does plugging that pipe have the same effect. Basicly is it unplug connector, and plug up pipe or leave sensor connected and just plug up larger pipe. Hopefully last of my questions

I think my falco is a very early model, she's a 2000 i don't think she does have the take off points but if i can use the other two pipes thats fine, many thanks for the offer of more up to date TB's, i did read about the special adaptors you swap for the original adaptors, which confused me to begin with as i was wondering why it went into detail about removing the TB's first but all became clear when it mentioned the different adaptors.

Thanks again guy's

Okay i did the TB sync this morning and surprisingly enough they were pretty much bang on (unless i havn't checked it right) the front was marginally stronger than the rear but by the sounds of things thats no bad thing. I marked where the screws were first and gently screwed them in, both were around 2.2 turns out.
1) got bike to temp and hooked up gauges using the sensor pipes
2) disconnected sensor as with pipes off and main pipe plugged the bike wouldn't fire up
3) fired her up and both cylinders pretty equal, fiddled with the screws but ended up putting rear back a smidge so screw probably nearer 1.9 turns out which got the sticks even closer but the front still just a smidge stronger.

She idles so smooth with the airbox lid off it makes the K+N or airbox mod all the more do'able.
Next question is, i'm seriously planning a Garbo chip at least just to help smooth her out to match the akro's better
But what would be better/ easier for Garbo to do
1) Simple K+N (less induction roar)
2) open airbox mod
I'm thinking it would be easier just to say she has K+N and akro's
Thanks

I'd say have the lid off, I've replaced my evo kit (it had gone a bit floppy) with some pipe insulation and a carwash sponge to hold the K&N air filter in place. Thats a bout £2.00 and appears to do very nicely.
I also have a Gabro chip and I'm guessing lid on lid off you'd get the same map and either way it'll work fine.