Cold starting

Chat for Falco Owners.

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stumblebum76
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#46 Post by stumblebum76 » Tue Dec 03, 2013 9:12 pm

Thanks for the input chaps, here's hoping the tank isn't too distorted and I can bolt the ruddy thing back up!
Regular maintenance is the key to reliability, irregular maintenance is the key to much exercise!

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Tonyunn
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#47 Post by Tonyunn » Wed Dec 04, 2013 7:44 am

Quarter inch square drive kit, thinnest plug socket you can find and then fit a small extension and a knuckle joint and then you can get at the plug.
Do the front right last as it is the biggest pain to get at.
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Harley Davidson....the most efficient way to turn petrol into noise without the embarrassing by-product of horsepower..

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blinkey501
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#48 Post by blinkey501 » Wed Dec 04, 2013 12:43 pm

Over the next couple weeks i will be doing a guide on how to service a Rotax including how to fasten an oversize petrol tank in the Aprilia technical. That is unless one of our admins have something in hand?
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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stumblebum76
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#49 Post by stumblebum76 » Wed Dec 04, 2013 1:33 pm

blinkey501 wrote:Over the next couple weeks i will be doing a guide on how to service a Rotax including how to fasten an oversize petrol tank in the Aprilia technical. That is unless one of our admins have something in hand?
Now that'll be handy, I look forward to reading it. As for the hard to get to plugs, I have a fair amount of experience in getting to hard to reach plugs so look forward to the challenge!
Regular maintenance is the key to reliability, irregular maintenance is the key to much exercise!

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blinkey501
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#50 Post by blinkey501 » Wed Dec 04, 2013 7:38 pm

stumblebum76 wrote:
blinkey501 wrote:Over the next couple weeks i will be doing a guide on how to service a Rotax including how to fasten an oversize petrol tank in the Aprilia technical. That is unless one of our admins have something in hand?
Now that'll be handy, I look forward to reading it. As for the hard to get to plugs, I have a fair amount of experience in getting to hard to reach plugs so look forward to the challenge!
To get to the front plugs the air box needs to be removed. But watch this space mate.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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stumblebum76
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#51 Post by stumblebum76 » Thu Dec 05, 2013 7:26 pm

I've caved in and bought the Venom cans, £179 all in was just too good a deal to miss. Now comes the waiting...
Regular maintenance is the key to reliability, irregular maintenance is the key to much exercise!

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stumblebum76
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#52 Post by stumblebum76 » Fri Dec 06, 2013 5:20 pm

After some more starting problems I seem to have narrowed the cause down to the fast idle cable, it just doesn't raise the revs unless I give it a really hard tug to induce higher revs, is it common for the cable to stretch and is it a pig to change?
Regular maintenance is the key to reliability, irregular maintenance is the key to much exercise!

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D-Rider
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#53 Post by D-Rider » Fri Dec 06, 2013 5:40 pm

Is it properly adjusted?
The workshop manual tells you how to do this. If you don't have it, download it from Martin Poll's website. You'll fond the link has been posted on here many times.(I'd find it for you were I not replying on my phone from Berlin)
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stumblebum76
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#54 Post by stumblebum76 » Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:30 pm

D-Rider wrote:Is it properly adjusted?
The workshop manual tells you how to do this. If you don't have it, download it from Martin Poll's website. You'll fond the link has been posted on here many times.(I'd find it for you were I not replying on my phone from Berlin)
I've got the manual now thank you, I'm glad it's adjustable that makes things much easier!
Regular maintenance is the key to reliability, irregular maintenance is the key to much exercise!

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#55 Post by fatboy » Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:02 pm

My cold starting had got to a really hit and miss affair, 50/50 kind of thing.
Finally had the time to check fast idle cable today.
What you have to adjust is the gap between idle adjuster screw and throttle shaft arm
if the gap is too large then the fast idle cable will not open the butterfly's enough to allow sufficient fuel for cold starting.
The gap should be 1.6 to 1.8mm, mine was 3.1
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fatboy
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#56 Post by fatboy » Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:44 pm

Well I have done all the above but still need to keep thumb pressure on the fast idle because of cable stretch...
but at least we have reliable cold starting again,very pleased its that simple !
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stumblebum76
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#57 Post by stumblebum76 » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:33 pm

fatboy wrote:Well I have done all the above but still need to keep thumb pressure on the fast idle because of cable stretch...
but at least we have reliable cold starting again,very pleased its that simple !
It is a simple solution for now! I'm putting off lifting my tank because of the dreaded swelling (oo er!) problem. the only thing is my K&N filter is sat in front of me dying to be put in!
Regular maintenance is the key to reliability, irregular maintenance is the key to much exercise!

fatboy
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#58 Post by fatboy » Tue Dec 17, 2013 6:52 pm

Dont be too worried about lifting the tank, if the front mounts clear the top yoke no problem, if not, lift off the pilot seat and undo the rear tank mount where it bolts to subframe.
To re fit a swollen tank, lower it in place, loosley fit the rear mounts, remove the grommets/washers from the front mounts,thread the grommets over the front mounting bolts but hold them out of the way whilst you engage the bolt with the tapping in the frame ( this gives you a good view of the bolt and thread so you dont cross thread)
You may need to use slightly longer bolts, mine are 40mm long
The washers and grommets will settle into place as you tighten down.
Very little faffing for the benefits of a free flowing filter :smt002
Do it :smt003 :smt003 :smt003
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