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You can't use an impact driver on this jet?

irich wrote:You can't use an impact driver on this jet?

It's a small brass thing - not sure I'd want to bring an impact driver to bear on it.

irich wrote:You can't use an impact driver on this jet?

would not recomend it but a good fitting driver, and a small bash on the end may help

dave

Not being funny with people but i think some think changing the jet is awfully complicated...

Use your newly purchased jet and source a good snug fitting screw driver that will fit neatly into the jet...

Follow the guide that andy posted about the whereabouts of the jet and unscrew the allen bolt...

push the screw driver in the hole and turn the screw driver until it fits in the slot.

Push and turn the driver at the same time anti clockwise until jet is loose, and unwind three or four turns

Push a cocktail stick into the old jet and remove, the jet will grip the soft wood of the stick...

Put in new jet making sure not to cross thread and when fully home give it a slight nip...

Put allen bolt back into place and select neutral gear everytime

I did this on the advice of Aladinsane and had no problems

Jay, you are absolutely right that for most of us this is a really easy thing to change. However, a few have reported that how ever hard they try, the jet won't budge.
My feeling is that for most it's easy but there are some bikes out there where it is nigh on impossible.

At least one of them, Griff couldn't budge - so it's not just a case of mechanical numptiness.

agreed

griff and i could not shift Hanna's either

Anyone tried poking a hot soldering iron into the jet? That should overcome any Locktite, or help loosen it if it's seized, but not be a fire risk like a naked flame.

Nooj wrote:Anyone tried poking a hot soldering iron into the jet? That should overcome any Locktite, or help loosen it if it's seized, but not be a fire risk like a naked flame.

Nooooo

There are 3 things required for combustion:

Fuel
Oxygen
Heat

The naked flame provides heat - it doesn't bring an extra magic ingredient.

The difference is the intensity of the heat in the flame - but I'd also be wary about sticking a hot soldering iron onto a film of oil.

D-Rider wrote:Jay, you are absolutely right that for most of us this is a really easy thing to change. However, a few have reported that how ever hard they try, the jet won't budge.
My feeling is that for most it's easy but there are some bikes out there where it is nigh on impossible.

At least one of them, Griff couldn't budge - so it's not just a case of mechanical numptiness.

..exactlly!! ...won't say anymore

furygan man wrote:

D-Rider wrote:Jay, you are absolutely right that for most of us this is a really easy thing to change. However, a few have reported that how ever hard they try, the jet won't budge.
My feeling is that for most it's easy but there are some bikes out there where it is nigh on impossible.

At least one of them, Griff couldn't budge - so it's not just a case of mechanical numptiness.

..exactlly!! ...won't say anymore

Please forgive me if i offended It was not my intention.

blinkey501 wrote:

furygan man wrote:

D-Rider wrote:Jay, you are absolutely right that for most of us this is a really easy thing to change. However, a few have reported that how ever hard they try, the jet won't budge.
My feeling is that for most it's easy but there are some bikes out there where it is nigh on impossible.

At least one of them, Griff couldn't budge - so it's not just a case of mechanical numptiness.

..exactlly!! ...won't say anymore

Please forgive me if i offended It was not my intention.

You didn't offend me - I just thought I'd better clarify a bit.

D-Rider wrote:

Nooj wrote:Anyone tried poking a hot soldering iron into the jet? That should overcome any Locktite, or help loosen it if it's seized, but not be a fire risk like a naked flame.

Nooooo

There are 3 things required for combustion:

Fuel
Oxygen
Heat

The naked flame provides heat - it doesn't bring an extra magic ingredient.

The difference is the intensity of the heat in the flame - but I'd also be wary about sticking a hot soldering iron onto a film of oil.

Meaning a hot soldering iron is considerably cooler than a naked flame. The flash point of engine oil is roughly 215-250*C, soldering irons for tin/lead solder are about 190*C aren't' they?

Nooj wrote:

Meaning a hot soldering iron is considerably cooler than a naked flame. The flash point of engine oil is roughly 215-250*C, soldering irons for tin/lead solder are about 190*C aren't' they?

Point 1 ...... Tin/Lead ..... ???? ...... not these days. We have to use the horrible lead-free solders - which have a higher melting point.

Point 2 ...... a soldering iron tip will need to be somewhat hotter than the melting point of the solder to ensure that the solder melts and stays melted - particularly when in contact with an effective heat-sink that you are soldering to.

Point 3 ..... soldering irons are frequently adjustable in temperature allowing a significant range of heating above typical melting point (and those that aren't, how much would you trust that they are well regulated).

Point 4 .....


Point 5 ...... even if things were as you suggest, would you really have confidence that all would be well with so little margin?

You wouldn't get anywhere near that temp on the jet anyway. There's a bleedin' great lump of a Rotax engine acting as a HUGE heatsink and the size of the hole the jet sits in dictates a very low wattage iron.

Be like trying to get the Flying Scotsman in steam with a 60 watt light bulb

anzacinexile wrote:You wouldn't get anywhere near that temp on the jet anyway. There's a bleedin' great lump of a Rotax engine acting as a HUGE heatsink and the size of the hole the jet sits in dictates a very low wattage iron.

Be like trying to get the Flying Scotsman in steam with a 60 watt light bulb

Quite - you'd stick in a very hot iron that would contact any oil film and would cool rapidly on contacting the oil film .... unless it did a job on the oil and that heated the whole engine from the inside .......