MOT and 1st ride out

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k1w1boy · #31 Post by **k1w1boy** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:16 pm

... Did check battery connections - tight and sweet. No way to charge battery, but will attempt a boost with a power-pack after school tomorrow.

flatlander · #32 Post by **flatlander** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:10 pm

Get to aldi and see if they have any chargers left ?

Samray · #33 Post by **Samray** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:18 pm

flatlander wrote:Get to aldi and see if they have any chargers left ?

Yep.
There's always a handy lamp post to tap into.

k1w1boy · #34 Post by **k1w1boy** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:10 pm

...F9 has suggested a new, meatier battery like the ytx14bs thing I eventually fitted to the blue one. Having bought it only a week ago and doing no less than 7-10 miles everyday between starts - could it really be that simple? I rode 7 miles to the gym, it sat for 2 hrs outside, then I rode 12(ish) miles to the supermarket - with a 20min stop there.

Aladinsaneuk · #35 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:42 pm

iirc

need to do 20 miles at least to replace the battery cost of starting....

Falcorob · #36 Post by **Falcorob** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:47 pm

At least 10. But that's without any of the lights turned on.

You're going to need to ride it for longer/further between stops mate. Otherwise you're going to have to change the battery every few months at best.

Your other alternative is to hook it up to a battery optimiser every time you park up.

flatlander · #37 Post by **flatlander** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:51 pm

I refer to my earlier comment

and IIRC you have to do over 4000 revs for it to have charging benefit

Falcorob · #38 Post by **Falcorob** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:56 pm

flatlander wrote:I refer to my earlier comment and IIRC you have to do over 4000 revs for it to have charging benefit

Yeah but anyone that listens to you is certifiable mate.

k1w1boy · #39 Post by **k1w1boy** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:49 pm

...the charging stuff is really surprising, but good to know. Forgive my ignorance, but how is it that modern cars with all their electrical dependencies, seem to start regardless of distance? Bigger engines? More heavy-duty charging components? I didn't realise this. I use the bike for everything, notably work - will be a push to quadruple my commuting distance, but if needs must, I'll try. Will also try the solar charger route since the bike will invariably get laid-up for a week or two - depending on snow & ice in London.

Food for thought.

flatlander · #40 Post by **flatlander** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:09 pm

manual says up to 17 days in "normal temp" without charging is ok but ...

and Rob

Falcorob wrote:
Yeah but anyone that listens to you is certifiable mate.

Listens no pays attention maybe acts on any advice I give without getting better opinions first almost deifinitely

D-Rider · #41 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:24 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:iirc

need to do 20 miles at least to replace the battery cost of starting....

Complete bollox

(sorry Pete)

I have a 7 mile daily commute (3.5 miles each way). It only goes on the optimate if I'm going away for some time and won't be riding it for a while.

BTW Kerry - If it's showing the Diag 1, you must have the diagnostic connectors joined together ..... any particular reason for this?
It's normal to have these disconnected unless specifically investigating diagnostic codes.

k1w1boy · #42 Post by **k1w1boy** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:53 am

Andy - your commuting distance follow up blows my easy fix idea. FYI if you read this thread back Rich says he's 'separated' the diag wires. Would them being connected impact on it starting? God, now what? The straight-to-zap start really worries me - even with the other one, on its rubbish rob-hunter battery gave me more feedback when cold or low. Will ask rich about whether he's changed/ungraded the starter solenoid.

Aladinsaneuk · #43 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:39 am

quite probably is andy - but I think that it is a useful rule of thumb - and I am will too bet that you warm your engine up etc before riding and then ensure the bike is put away properly - not quite tucked up with a blanket but....

I know that I can leave mine for a long time with out using the optimate, but if i have been using the bike for short blasts then I have learned the hard way to put it on charge.....

I know have a spare door stop in my garage..... though it was an old spare battery!

flatlander · #44 Post by **flatlander** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:11 am

Bearing in mind my earlier disclaimer

If it tries to turn over can't recall if it does, but on short journeys could it cause it to run weak by not getting hot enough to burn the fuel edge ir fly and leaving a watery mixture for next start?

D-Rider · #45 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:06 am

Aladinsaneuk wrote:quite probably is andy - but I think that it is a useful rule of thumb

Certainly not a bad thing to do

Aladinsaneuk wrote: I am will too bet that you warm your engine up etc before riding

Nope - turn it on and off I go .... no time for pissing about - I'm always running late.

Aladinsaneuk wrote:then ensure the bike is put away properly - not quite tucked up with a blanket but....

It does get stuck away in the garage - but its a detached concrete garage and not very warm - just keeps the wind and rain off.