Decent Battery

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paddyz1 · #16 Post by **paddyz1** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 2:09 pm

D-Rider wrote:The search function on here will reveal a wealth of info ......

Yuassa YTZ14 (I forget the suffix) is what I have - it's better than the standard YTX14BS but needs some spacers (bits of wood) as it's physically smaller.

What be this battery like then?
I just been to buy one but he did not have that exact one in stock. What he suggested was a CTZ14BS. Claimed it was the same but it look too small so i didn't get it. In fact i didn't buy one at all.

D-Rider · #17 Post by **D-Rider** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 2:54 pm

paddyz1 wrote:
D-Rider wrote:The search function on here will reveal a wealth of info ......

Yuassa YTZ14 (I forget the suffix) is what I have - it's better than the standard YTX14BS but needs some spacers (bits of wood) as it's physically smaller.
What be this battery like then?
I just been to buy one but he did not have that exact one in stock. What he suggested was a CTZ14BS. Claimed it was the same but it look too small so i didn't get it. In fact i didn't buy one at all.

So far, so good - but early days - I've not had it for a year and a half yet.

Not being one to be swayed by brands on most things, that doesn't apply to my view of buying batteries. I always go for a quality brand as two batteries can have the same basic specs but over a lifetime perform quite differently.
I usually stick to Yuassa.

Dalemac · #18 Post by **Dalemac** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 10:23 pm

Well, the dynovolt is dead. Battery charger says its full but hit the starter switch and it does the good old clock reset.

I ordered a motobatt but they send a dynavolt.

Contacted seller asking for a replacement as it is still under warranty.

Bloody batteries!

HowardQ · #19 Post by **HowardQ** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 10:39 pm

Dalemac wrote:3 weeks have passed and still no Motobatt battery.

Apparently the courier managed to damage it

and guess what- they have none left in stock! Means they are sending out a Dynavolt one instead (which is a bit extra, but I don't have to pay the difference)

Any thoughts on the Dynavolt?

Dale

I have been using a Dynavolt for over a year, it does seem to stay charged a bit longer and start the bike slightly better.
So it's all good news for the Dynavolt so far.

To be honest my Falco has always started first time with a good battery of any type.
I did initially have a Yuasa YTX14 BS, but it failed totally in just under a year, (not impressed). Then again I have had numerous others in the past that have been very good on other bikes.
I have a battery conditioner, but do not use it all the time, as I use it on both bikes, and the 9R has an alarm.

Dalemac · #20 Post by **Dalemac** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:14 am

Hmm, i'm now not sure whether the battery charger is broken, or whether the charging circuit on the falco is a bit broken.

just reading an article on a website and it says:

Another way to determine if your battery is bad is to check the alternator. To do this, start the car then remove the ground cable from the battery. If the car immediately dies this points to a bad alternator rather than a battery gone bad. One other way to test your battery is to place it in a different car to see if it will start. If the car starts and will run for awhile with lights and radio running, the battery is good. If the juice drains rapidly from the battery while running for a short while the battery needs replaced.

(obviuosly replace car with bike! ).

This seems like a bit of a no-no to me!

what are the best ways i can test the charger, battery, and charging circuit on the falco? (OK i will go and read the manual for the charging circuit :P ).

Thanks,

Dale

Cathcart · #21 Post by **Cathcart** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:40 am

You can do the old remove the negative once started but it's not precise enough for my liking. After all, the battery only starts your bike.
Get a multimeter and check the power over your terminals with the bike running. If memory serves me then you should be getting 13-14.5 volts whilst running. But then, I think the falco falls slightly short due to poor wiring. Search for the "wire mod" and the figures are in there. You also have a voltage meter built into the falco clocks but the readings aren't exact but you'll get an idea.
Most garages will do a quick battery test for you, obviously have it charged first then wait a good few hours before getting it checked.

Dalemac · #22 Post by **Dalemac** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 11:21 am

Thanks Cathcart

I now no longer think its the battery or the charger. I put the battery back in the bike, turned all the lights on and heated grips. 10 minutes later and there appears to be no sign of lack of charge.

Last year it had a new starter relay. I wonder it that is the cause. Will charge the battery out fully and then do the relay bypass trick and see if it turns over then.

Dale

DavShill · #23 Post by **DavShill** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 12:21 pm

My bike is 7 years old and is still on the oiginal battery. Lives in the garage and on the Optimate regularly but I think that is pretty good service ................. waits for battery to fail when tries to start her up this weekend !!!

D-Rider · #24 Post by **D-Rider** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 12:40 pm

I'd be wary about pulling ground connections off of the alternator while it's running - you could introduce some very unhealthy spikes!

I'm pretty sure the workshop manual tells you how to test the alternator.

Dalemac · #25 Post by **Dalemac** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 12:51 pm

The problem getting it started is more concerning to me right now!

Full battery, but does the dash reset every time I hit the starter. The starter relay seems to be ok, the voltage goes from 0 to minus something, but I cant get an accurate reading due to the dash resetting almost instantly.

kill switch is working fine. Guess I should check the tilt sensor and side stand switch tomorrow morning. Other than that, i'm out of ideas.

Dale

Aladinsaneuk · #26 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:06 pm

check your battery terminals and look for a loose earth

OR

and i fear more likely, check the wiring loom especially around the headstock - a few have reported frayed wires giving similar issues

Dalemac · #27 Post by **Dalemac** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:15 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:check your battery terminals and look for a loose earth

OR

and i fear more likely, check the wiring loom especially around the headstock - a few have reported frayed wires giving similar issues

Yeah one of the first things I did was clean up the battery terminals. Good point on the wiring loom - I'll give it a good looking over tomorrow.

Dale

blinkey501 · #28 Post by **blinkey501** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:35 pm

Dalemac wrote:
Aladinsaneuk wrote:check your battery terminals and look for a loose earth

OR

and i fear more likely, check the wiring loom especially around the headstock - a few have reported frayed wires giving similar issues
Yeah one of the first things I did was clean up the battery terminals. Good point on the wiring loom - I'll give it a good looking over tomorrow.

Dale

If you are struggling Dale if you are still in lincoln i could pop over and help you with it. Let me know

Dalemac · #29 Post by **Dalemac** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:53 pm

Thank you for the offer Blinkey, very kind of you.

I will check out the bits and bobs above first though as its a bit of a trip. I'll likely get up about 8am and try and get this all done!

Dale

Cathcart · #30 Post by **Cathcart** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:02 pm

D-Rider wrote:I'd be wary about pulling ground connections off of the alternator while it's running - you could introduce some very unhealthy spikes.

Agreed, don't pull it off your alternator, I've only ever done it off the battery as
once started your battery does next to nothing anyway.