Help need advice on value of my bike quick

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Falcoholic · #16 Post by **Falcoholic** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:56 pm

I wouldn't part with mine for twice that. I know it's not worth that but it is to me. At 1500 to 2500 bangers being roughly what it's worth I would feel cheated trading it for a Fazer or some such of the same value which I wouldn't love and cherish the same.
I can't wait to show it to my mate who I bought it off in 2002.

However, I'd take the bus if i didn't enjoy the commute on it.

Bottom line? I couldn't part with it.

Good luck mate but don't sell it short and don't come running cryin to me when ya miss it.

I can always take the CBR6 to work

hornetrider · #17 Post by **hornetrider** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:34 am

Must admit I'm surprised you're selling up for a Fazer just because you have to commute on it. The Falco copes with miles in the saddle very well.

Fausto · #18 Post by **Fausto** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:12 pm

I can only imagine that it comes down to riding position in heavy traffic ?

Is that right?

If so try raising the clip ons to above the top yoke and change to a 15t sprocket.

If you still want to sell I'll give you £1.5k for it

(possibly)

IsleFalco · #19 Post by **IsleFalco** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 12:31 pm

There is no way I would sell my Falco for that kind of money either. The price is knockdown and you should only part with it for that if you are really desperate to sell it. You could put another 10,000 miles on it with absolutely no bother and still get 1500 quid for it. It might be worth thinking abouit riasing the bars, if that is the problem, and just commuting on it.

Last week I saw the Canarino Feroce sitting in a yard. That bike had something like 70000 miles on it, I think - and it was still going strong. I also agree that a 15t front sprocket, which will cost less than 15 quid, will make town riding a lot better.

In summary, don't be ripped off, keep the bike and save your money.

spew · #20 Post by **spew** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 1:51 pm

I too love the bike as it does everything I want, and has loads of character - except it is cr*p to ride in town.

My commute is through London and even though I've changed the front sprocket for one tooth less and changed the clutch slave cylinder I still find my hand and wrist hurts as I have to ride the heavy clutch too much. The two mods have improved the bike's manners in town but not enough for me to want to commute every day.

#21 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:49 pm

spew wrote:My commute is through London and even though I've changed the clutch slave cylinder I still find my hand and wrist hurts as I have to ride the heavy clutch too much.

One other thing - have you made sure that the angle of the clutch lever is correct? With mine, as delivered, the angle of the clutch lever was such that the lever was pointing pretty much straight ahead.

To my mind the clutch lever should be set such that when sat on the bike, in the normal operating position, there should be a straight line able to be drawn through your forearm, hand and fingers when you have your hand resting on the clutch lever. If your hand is canted up at the wrist, even by a small amount, it makes use of the clutch much harder and will certainly cause pain in town. In other words you need a 'straight pull' on the clutch to avoid wrist pain. My levers are set at about 30 degrees below horizontal.

The same should also be true of the brake lever, but poor setting of the angle doesn't normally result in wrist pain. I know that with one of the controls (I think it was the clutch side), I had to dismantle the switchgear, drill out the pip that keys into a hole in the bar tube and then move the switchgear and lever to a point where i could rotate the lever to a comfortable position. As standard, the ergonomics of the clutch lever and switchgear is very poor, IMHO.

D-Rider · #22 Post by **D-Rider** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 4:32 pm

Agreed re the lever angles - however I've tried moving mine and there just isn't the adjustment in them to get them right.
Maybe I'll have to have a more radical attempt.

I understand where you are coming from spew.
I think that your riding profile is exactly what the aprilia mana was designed for. Nice auto box or manual clutchless operation for commuting but with the ability to be used in bike mode when not commuting .... have you thought of trying one?

Nooj · #23 Post by **Nooj** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 6:36 pm

I have a Falco and a Fazer 600, the Fazer has a much heavier clutch. Do a Tuono bar conversion on your Falco and it'll be fine all day around town.

spew · #24 Post by **spew** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 12:19 pm

Thnkas Mango I'll check the position of the clutch lever.

Nooj not sure what the Tuono bars would do for me as I don't mind the riding position - I just have a problem with the clutch.

Syltiz · #25 Post by **Syltiz** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 12:58 pm

Have you tried reverse bleeding the clutch and then following kzmille's (from AF1) advice on removing the air pocket by the banjo? I did this and it made my clutch so easy I thought it was not working - I had to ride it to check it was.

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/show ... ake+clutch

#26 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 1:28 pm

The absolute nuclear option, though, is fitting one of these puppies:

The only trouble is, you'd also have to fit one of these as well, or risk having the brakes doing a sulk:

spew · #27 Post by **spew** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 3:51 pm

Mango what exactly are those - if they make the clutch easier then I'm interested!

#28 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 4:27 pm

They're radial master cylinders; basically they are the most efficient form of master cylinder. They transmit more of the pressure generated at the lever through the clutch line than conventional master cylinders. They also have the ability to be adjusted so you can have either 'feel' or maximum leverage ratio.

For the clutch it should mean less lever effort for the same result; for the brake it means you can either adjust it for feel or power. The only problem is that the clutch master cylinder on its own is about £200 - 250, ditto the brake m/cyl.

I'm actually waiting to see how my clutch feels now I've adjusted the lever angle properly and fitted a braided hose and an MPL slave cylinder. If it's OK, then fine; if not, then one of those will be on my Christmas present list...

spew · #29 Post by **spew** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 7:33 pm

D-Rider yes the Mana would be perfect for the commute but wouldn't be wouldn't be much use at track days! If they had been around longer I would consider getting one alongside the Falco. Another option I'm considering is to get a scooter and keep the Falco.

D-Rider · #30 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 8:03 pm

Ah .... hadn't realised the track day requirement !

Yeah a scooter or a small commuter in addition to the Falco sounds like a good option.