Raising the bars - what are the options ?

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Fausto · #16 Post by **Fausto** » Sun Sep 21, 2008 5:57 pm

Nooj wrote:Lifting the whole top fairing is going to a massive bodywork job, you'll need to change the intakes' possition as they're part of the fairing, so they won't meet up with the intake holes in the frame. You'll also need to bridge the gap between the bottom of the intakes and the top of the mid panels somehow. Much much easier to change the bars.

Yes I had a good close look at it today and it does look a bit daunting. I was thinking of losing the lower and mid sections and just running the top bit. I have read that the 'ram air' inducts are pretty unecessary anyway so could perhaps work round that...

Fausto · #17 Post by **Fausto** » Sun Sep 21, 2008 6:29 pm

I spent a little time this afternoon repositioning the clip ons to above the top yoke so here's what I found.

They go on there alright but look a little untidy.

The cables all reached except the brake hose which is still the OEM 1 into 2 type. I had to undo the clip holding the hose splitter to the bottom yoke and I believe there is enough slack in the whole system to get away with it (just). I used a zip tie to secure the hoses to the clip so they can't flap about. If I stick to this setup then Braided lines will sort this.

It's a very fine balance between positioning the bars to clear the tank and the fairing. They won't clear both but I went for no contact with the tank and slight contact with the right bar and the fairing. At the moment this partially engages the kill switch which could be fun so I need to look into that.

I already had about 4 rings showing above the top yoke but had to lower the yoke further to fit the clip ons. I only had time for a short ride but it felt quite nice both comfortwise and handlingwise.

Aladinsaneuk · #18 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:06 pm

ok

the brake cylinder is held on by a metal bracket - lose the bracket. the cylinder will be on a slight angle but clears the fairing easily

next the kill switch - slacken off the screws that hold it on - rotate slightly to ensure it will not turn engine off on full lock

Fausto · #19 Post by **Fausto** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 3:32 pm

Agreed on the kill switch - will look at that.

The brake cylinder isn't a problem - plenty (relatively) of clearance.

It was the hose length that was an issue but I have / can sort that.

One thing that does bug me though is the fact that the clip ons are now not safety bolted to the top yoke. I could drill through and bolt them to the top but not happy about that.

Also - how much fork top do you feel is needed to safely attach the clip ons? I have them so the red top bit is just proud of the clip on tops.

Aladinsaneuk · #20 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 4:51 pm

mine is flush with the top - i think somewhere here there are some pictures - will see if i can find the link

also, you will find in the same thread how i secured the pin lock....

Aladinsaneuk · #21 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:24 pm

bollocks, i can't find the link but

what i did was drill through the lock holes on the under sider of the triple clamp, using a drill a 1/2 size beneath the thread.
then, from the top, i tapped the thread in, so the thread goes all the way through.

now, mount your bars and using a longer bolt, go through the pin hole on the bar, bolt down into the triple clamp holes - if you want to be really safe use a lock nut underneath

Aladinsaneuk · #22 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:27 pm

doh found it

https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=3430

no pictures left now though - eaten by my server....