Swingarm/exhaust/oil tank swap coming!

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bigun · #16 Post by **bigun** » Wed May 28, 2008 7:50 pm

Grind the link off (if you haven't got a grinder you can get one that'll do the job in B&Q for about a tenner).
Then, use a g-clamp to put the new link on and peen the rivets over with a hammer as discussed above. (G-Clamp is £3 at B&Q). I've done about 5 chains on various bikes like this and never had a problem. (Other than the front sprocket coming off and the resulting chain snap but at the factory rivet but thats another story

).

HowardQ · #17 Post by **HowardQ** » Wed May 28, 2008 8:22 pm

As Bigun says grind it off first, just find the softlink, (not difficult). I just used a small rotary grinding stone on my electric drill. It was just a cheap one out of a set.
Then the chain splitter works OK.
I then broke the pin when rivetting the thing back up!

Viking · #18 Post by **Viking** » Thu May 29, 2008 1:12 am

sabestian wrote:AAAAAAAAAGghhhhh! Syltiz, I don't know how to attach that either! It's a pdf, anybody's got a clue?

Get the Adobe Acrobat Reader from (where else?) www.adobe.com.

sabestian · #19 Post by **sabestian** » Sat May 31, 2008 5:08 pm

Viking wrote:
sabestian wrote:AAAAAAAAAGghhhhh! Syltiz, I don't know how to attach that either! It's a pdf, anybody's got a clue?
Get the Adobe Acrobat Reader from (where else?) www.adobe.com.

It is not a problem to read it but to post/attach/host it. It is an interesting read for beginners (big pictures

), so if someone wants to read it, send me a pm.

Anyway, another two questions regarding the operation.

1) I've got a second hand Mille oil tank. I cannot be sure whether it is clean inside or not. How to clean it? What to flush it with?

2) I changed the oil recently, is it possible to salvage it during oil cooler and oil tank swap? No? I thought so.

I'll try nevertheless.

Syltiz · #20 Post by **Syltiz** » Sat May 31, 2008 5:39 pm

My mate's a chemist and reckons flush it with what you want to fill it with... so oil. But he has had a few pints today and thinks screaming at the TV will make Toseland qualify better so I would check that

Why dont you just drain the oil, do the swap and then put the oil back in?

sabestian · #21 Post by **sabestian** » Sat May 31, 2008 6:26 pm

Syltiz wrote:My mate's a chemist and reckons flush it with what you want to fill it with... so oil. But he has had a few pints today and thinks screaming at the TV will make Toseland qualify better so I would check that

This confirms what I thought.

#22 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sat May 31, 2008 7:57 pm

Hot soapy water, then allow it to dry. THEN flush with oil to prevent rusting

Oil has the cleaning abilities of.. nothing... when it comes to removing debris and 'crap'
It will remove old oil thats stagnant in it, but not crap and dirt as found in many a swap bin in a bloke's garage.

Aladinsaneuk · #23 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sat May 31, 2008 8:22 pm

i am always tempted to pop the sump plug in and then pour in a litre of gunk....

I have not had the balls to try it yet

sabestian · #24 Post by **sabestian** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 6:06 pm

Kwackerz wrote:Hot soapy water, then allow it to dry. THEN flush with oil to prevent rusting

Oil has the cleaning abilities of.. nothing... when it comes to removing debris and 'crap'
It will remove old oil thats stagnant in it, but not crap and dirt as found in many a swap bin in a bloke's garage.

That's what I experienced. I wasted quite a bit of oil only to learn that it doesn't do anything, apart of maybe thinning the crap inside. So I went for it with washing up fluid and a biblical amount of old oil came out. Then I flushed the hell out of it with hot water (plus 3-4 times on top to make sure no more detergent is inside).

I proceeded with stucking the tank to the kitchen oven, let it dry in 100 deg until my lady found it, shouted back at her, and took it out. The boiler room will need to do this time. Women. They just don't get this stuff.

Will let it dry for a few days there and flush with oil. There are a lot of tiny spaces and complicated pipes in there.

sabestian · #25 Post by **sabestian** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 2:32 pm

OK. next set of questions. As I mentioned before, my chain is relatively new, and relatively well taken care of. Now, is it possible to put a few extra links (or one actually, the middle - narrower one) taken from another chain (ie a new chain that has been shortened to fit). I can't see the reason why not.

If so, has anyone got spare new links? I understand that I'd need two connecting links to put it all together.

That is just in case of an emergency just in case, it's a tight fit and I want to be prepared for most things that may happen...

Fausto · #26 Post by **Fausto** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:28 pm

Ooh.... chain lengthening.... bit dodgy I'd have thought.

If I understand you correctly you would need TWO master links as opposed to just the one when joining up a new chain. One to add the extra length and another to join up the chain.

Now the arguments about whether master links are as strong as factory links will go on forever but if you believe the home finished link to be a potential weak spot in the chain - why double the risk ?

As for the question - I guess as long as the chain s are same make / same pitch / same weight and of roughly the same vintage then they are probably identical.

Still wouldn't do it though

Syltiz · #27 Post by **Syltiz** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:31 pm

Yeah - I would have to agree. Its not what you want at the back of your mind everytime you get on the gas.

D-Rider · #28 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:58 pm

The saying is that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. Using 2 soft links doesn't double the weak spot .... the weakest point still the single weakest link. Even if a soft link is weaker then the weakest point will be whichever of them is the weakest (if you fit 2). We all ride with 1 anyway - just make sure you make a good job of both joints and I can't see why it would be any worse than a chain which contained one soft link.

Fausto · #29 Post by **Fausto** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:43 pm

Ah but you wouldn't be riding with a saying spinning round just behind your left leg - you would be riding with a chain with 2 soft links.

If a soft link is to give up it will presumably be due to one of the two rivets failing. Two softlinks mean Four rivets and therefore double the chances.

........doesn't it

sabestian · #30 Post by **sabestian** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:44 pm

D-Rider wrote:The saying is that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. Using 2 soft links doesn't double the weak spot .... the weakest point still the single weakest link. Even if a soft link is weaker then the weakest point will be whichever of them is the weakest (if you fit 2).

D-Rider, I think I'd go with your way of thinking. There is another point I'd like to make: this will be my first try in riveting the chain. That means that the first link I rivet will be weaker than the second (most likely, 'cos I'll be 100% more experienced).

Conclusion is, I could build a whole chain and it would break in the first riveted point anyway. Logic, innit?

All right, having covered the theory, practice next. Anyone with a spare not needed chain bit?