shock re-furb

Chat for Falco Owners.

Moderators: Aladinsaneuk, MartDude, D-Rider, Moderators

Message
Author
User avatar
Big_AL
Track Day Addict
Track Day Addict
Posts: 110
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:44 pm
Location: Surrey

#16 Post by Big_AL » Sun May 04, 2008 5:45 pm

Bugger! nobody want's to service my white spring mille shock aparently it's a bugger open them up and impossible to get the parts :smt013 so I feel like i've just wasted £50, guess my only options are to run it like it is (might be better than stock) or just stick it back on e bay and try and cut some of my losses. Gutted :-(

User avatar
Kwackerz
Admin
Admin
Posts: 8362
Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:16 pm

#17 Post by Kwackerz » Sun May 04, 2008 6:24 pm

I'd agree with Gio, but maybe speak to Darren at MC Technics of Stowmarket

http://www.mctechnics.co.uk/
Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly

User avatar
Thumper
SuperSport Racer
SuperSport Racer
Posts: 400
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:45 am
Location: norfolk

#18 Post by Thumper » Sun May 25, 2008 9:44 am

I used this company Ale http://www.revsracing.co.uk/wilbers.php

found them very helpful and did a great job at reasonable cost.

robertorolfo
Despatch Rider
Posts: 53
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:05 pm

#19 Post by robertorolfo » Mon Oct 20, 2008 4:08 pm

Hey, just for the fun of bringing back and old thread about the never ending issue (rear shock)...

I just got a mille white springer, but it didn't come with any mounting hardward. So my question is do I need anything different from that of the falco?

I'm not talking about the linkage or dogbone, but the actual bolts that hold it in place. From the looks of the diagrams, the Falco has bushings around the bottom bolt, and a "silent bloc" around the top bolt... while the Mille has bushings around BOTH the top and bottom bolts.

Can anyone confirm/deny this for me? Will I need to purchase the separate bushings?

User avatar
FlyingKiwi
SuperSport Racer
SuperSport Racer
Posts: 766
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:14 pm
Location: Gogledd Cymru

#20 Post by FlyingKiwi » Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:14 pm

Hi ya,
I've got a white shock too.
I just removed the bolts and dropped out the blue shock and slipped the whitey in. easy peasy, no other bits necessary :smt003
don't forget you may have to trim the valve.

robertorolfo
Despatch Rider
Posts: 53
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:05 pm

#21 Post by robertorolfo » Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:55 pm

Cool flying Kiwi... good to know. Did you file down your valve, or use some other technique?

User avatar
Nooj
GP Racer
GP Racer
Posts: 2718
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:06 pm
Location: Newbury, Berkshire

#22 Post by Nooj » Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:34 am

Be extra careful not to deflate the shock as you cut the valve down!
SHINY BIKE SYNDROME Motorcycle valeting and paint protection specialist.
Aladinsaneuk wrote:andy is having a VERY heavy period

robertorolfo
Despatch Rider
Posts: 53
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:05 pm

#23 Post by robertorolfo » Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:22 pm

Yes Nooj, I've already been thinking about the best way to file without pressing down on the pin. In the end though, I think I'm going to have it installed at a suspension shop. I don't have a lift, or stands, or a jack... or anything really to pick the bike up with. Don't even have a decent sized metal rod to stick through the frame/swingarm. I'd love to do it myself, but my tools are limited.

Oh, and I checked the shock last night and the bushings are already in there... so no worries.

When adjusting the ride height though, does the entire upper part of the shock rotate, or just the part below the sping? I mean, you should be able to adjust the ride height without taking the shock off the bike, no?

User avatar
FlyingKiwi
SuperSport Racer
SuperSport Racer
Posts: 766
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:14 pm
Location: Gogledd Cymru

#24 Post by FlyingKiwi » Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:14 pm

robertorolfo wrote: Did you file down your valve, or use some other technique?
I was also concerned about deflating the shock so I left the pin alone. I used a dremmel tool, or similar, and ground down around the pin.
My shock valve had a red cap with a black rubber bung in a small hole.
I removed the black bung and trimmed the bottom of the cap so I could screw it down far enough so the valve pin was visible and flush with the
end of the valve cap. It leaves just enough clearance so as not to hit the frame.

See a previous post HERE about setting your ride height.

robertorolfo
Despatch Rider
Posts: 53
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:05 pm

#25 Post by robertorolfo » Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:57 am

Thanks again on the valve Kiwi.

As per the ride height, I had seen that thread before... and my question is, what exactly is the "clevis". Would that be the part below the spring and above the washer nut you losen? If so, the real question is: Does that rotate on its own, or does it have to spin with the entire upper part of the shock (meaning it wouldn't turn if already mounted)? Maybe a stupid question, but I just want to be 100% sure before I throw it on.

User avatar
FlyingKiwi
SuperSport Racer
SuperSport Racer
Posts: 766
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:14 pm
Location: Gogledd Cymru

#26 Post by FlyingKiwi » Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:06 am

Hi RR,
The Clevis is the piece that the bolt goes through under the nut you loosen.
I wound mine out to the factory length (322mm) and have no problems.
FK

robertorolfo
Despatch Rider
Posts: 53
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:05 pm

#27 Post by robertorolfo » Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:08 am

Ah, ok... so you can't adjust one mounted then! Good to know.

What are you doing awake at this time?

User avatar
FlyingKiwi
SuperSport Racer
SuperSport Racer
Posts: 766
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:14 pm
Location: Gogledd Cymru

#28 Post by FlyingKiwi » Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:12 am

well it is 10 past 10 in the morning :smt006

robertorolfo
Despatch Rider
Posts: 53
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:05 pm

#29 Post by robertorolfo » Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:37 am

Wow, my fualt... got my boards mixed up. Isn't too early at all for you then! Carry on.

Post Reply