Electrical numpty needs advice for MOT

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D-Rider · #16 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:54 pm

Could easily be a loose connector (I had the same symptom this year and that's what it was).

There is one near the right side of the rider's seat (3 pin) where the sensor connects into the loom.
The other one is the connector on the back of the instrument cluster. You might be able to squeeze your fingers in by removing the screen and the plastic plate below it - if not, the upper fairing will need to come off.

Have a look in the workshop manual - it'll probably show you where the connectors are (can't remember for sure if it does) but it certainly does tell you how to check the sensor itself.

If you haven't got the manual, download from Martin Poll's site:
http://www.martinpoll.dk/div_april.htm

FalcoDaz · #17 Post by **FalcoDaz** » Tue Nov 17, 2015 9:22 pm

Cheers Dalemac,

Typical bit of luck, I'll check to see if I dislodged something, just in case. Then I'll search in here for bodywork removal tips, just too lazy at the weekend. How hard could it be?

Dalemac wrote:The speedo sensor is mounted near the rear brake caliper, and it goes off the speed of rotation of the rear disk bolts. Haven't changed them, have you?

They can go, and quite often, unfortunately.

There is a knack to removing the rear fairing, but it's hard to describe. The front bodywork is much simpler to remove.

FalcoDaz · #18 Post by **FalcoDaz** » Wed Nov 18, 2015 8:07 am

Cheers Dalemac,

Typical bit of luck, I'll check to see if I dislodged something, just in case. Then I'll search in here for bodywork removal tips, just too lazy at the weekend. How hard could it be?

Dalemac wrote:The speedo sensor is mounted near the rear brake caliper, and it goes off the speed of rotation of the rear disk bolts. Haven't changed them, have you?

They can go, and quite often, unfortunately.

There is a knack to removing the rear fairing, but it's hard to describe. The front bodywork is much simpler to remove.

Firestarter · #19 Post by **Firestarter** » Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:55 am

FalcoDaz wrote:Cheers Dalemac,

Typical bit of luck, I'll check to see if I dislodged something, just in case. Then I'll search in here for bodywork removal tips, just too lazy at the weekend. How hard could it be?

I have found a guide somewhere (and I'll try and find it, might have been the workshop manual). It is fairly easy, just a bit nerve-racking as you bend the plastics around the frame and wiring. I've taken mine off a couple of times, and yes it is dead simple.

On a side note, I've got some electrical gremlins as well, my headlight has started dropping out, think I have a loose or broken connection somewhere from the handlebars onwards (as I managed to get it to stay off for a few seconds with the bars in a particular position). Doesn't seem repeatable though, so am thinking broken core rather than lose connection

Aladinsaneuk · #20 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Wed Nov 18, 2015 4:56 pm

Iirc some others have had similar issues

There is some wiring around the left side of the headstock

Has been known to fray and cause an earth

Firestarter · #21 Post by **Firestarter** » Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:02 pm

OK, here you go:

http://www.martinpoll.dk/diverse/Bikemanual_sl1000.pdf

Skip to page 229 of the PDF, section 7.1.33. The third picture is the one of interest. It really does bend a lot further than you think, but is still an ass puckering job. I found doing one side at a time was preferable, clearing the cables etc on one side then lifting the other up a bit