Falco specific Ohlins remote pre load shock question

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Nooj · #16 Post by **Nooj** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:42 am

What are you looking for...preload range, ie: how much adjustment the remote adjuster has from top to bottom?

Yep, that's what I'm after!

I believe max preload available via the hydraulic adjuster was about 10-12mm if I remember correctly
F9

Hmmm, I'm getting 1-2mm, Not enough. I know some oil's escaped which is probably the cause, oil out - air in?

Falco9 · #17 Post by **Falco9** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:01 am

Nooj wrote:
What are you looking for...preload range, ie: how much adjustment the remote adjuster has from top to bottom?
Yep, that's what I'm after!

I believe max preload available via the hydraulic adjuster was about 10-12mm if I remember correctly
F9
Hmmm, I'm getting 1-2mm, Not enough. I know some oil's escaped which is probably the cause, oil out - air in?

I do know they are very sensitive to air in the system as it can be compressed of course. I lost oil out of mine when the seal blew and Gareth bled and repaired it twice as I couldn't get any adjustment out of it (this is long time ago of course) I recently had exactly the same problem with the remote preload on the WP shock I have fitted to the GS, he fixed it bled it and now I think get about 10mm of movement max (i haven't actually measured to be honest, I know it doesn't move a lot so I could be wrong.

I do know that slackening off the nut just enough to adjust the position of the hose was enough to let air in and stop it working fully though

F9

Aladinsaneuk · #18 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:18 am

is why i think will's shock needs a service - very little adjustment could be felt - also, it did not click positively....

Falco9 · #19 Post by **Falco9** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:27 am

Aladinsaneuk wrote:is why i think will's shock needs a service - very little adjustment could be felt - also, it did not click positively....

I think we might be at crossed purposes, I'm only referring to the remote preload adjuster which has no click adjustment, just wind in or out till it stops.
Although I would agree with you about the shock service if it hasn't been done since I sold the bike. I had the shock & the forks serviced by Gareth @ Reactive not long before Gio bought the bike. I'd hope it (they) may have been serviced since, but if not it will definately need a service by now

F9

Aladinsaneuk · #20 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 1:45 pm

NeOther the remote or main had real movement

Willopotomas · #21 Post by **Willopotomas** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 3:46 pm

The large dial at the side of the bike is the pre-load adjustment, the one you were clicking on the side of the cylinder is the compression damping adjustment.. The one at the bottom of the shock is the rebound damping adjustment. I've not had a chance to get stuck in to setting it up really. I've had a play here n' there, but nothing of any great science.. Just a "lets see what this'll do" kinda thing. Setting suspension up like this is all a bit new to me as I've not had bikes with this level of customisable settings on. The bikes im used to have little or no adjustment at all, and if they do it'll only be for pre-load. I'll get there one day. I've not totally given up on it yet.

Nooj · #22 Post by **Nooj** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 4:59 pm

I do know that slackening off the nut just enough to adjust the position of the hose was enough to let air in and stop it working fully though

That'll be it then. How easy is it to bleed the system? And what oil does it use?

D-Rider · #23 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 8:34 pm

Given that once the sag is set it doesn't often need playing with, it could be argued that for most of us, a remote preload adjuster is not of great value and is just another thing to go wrong.

Discuss.

Falco9 · #24 Post by **Falco9** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 8:41 pm

Nooj,
Sorry mate I don't know the answer to either of your questions. I left that in the hands of Gareth to put right

Andy,
I'd agree 100% with you unless you carry a regular pillion. My GS has remote preload on the WP shock and its superb for when SWMBO comes out with me, a few quick twirls on the adjuster and voila! the preload is set in seconds. But for solo riding the remote preload is all but useless (looks sooooooo trick though doesn't it?

)

F9

D-Rider · #25 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:09 pm

Oh yes - it definitely scores in the bling stakes.

I do carry pillions regularly but don't bother to change setup as it's usually for fairly short journeys , I don't "push it" 2-up and I adapt my riding style to compensate.

Willopotomas · #26 Post by **Willopotomas** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:35 pm

It came with the bike..lol..

Nooj · #27 Post by **Nooj** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 9:17 pm

I like the idea of it for when my hunormous luggage gets put on to it. Also it has a different weight spring I want to try and it's easier to change complete shocks than just the springs.

#28 Post by **mangocrazy** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:40 pm

To be honest, having had a remote preload adjuster (hereinafter called an RPA) on my first VFR (back in 1989) has spoiled me to the extent that if a bike can/will take a pillion passenger, I make sure I get a shock (normally Ohlins) with a RPA fitted to it.

Faffing about with C-spanners and losing chunks of skin off your knuckles is such a drag, I find...

The RPA is a comparatively simple hydraulic device and, assuming the seal is OK, is possible to bleed without specialist tools. I certainly was able to revive one I have fitted to the Ohlins on the VFR that lives in France a couple of years ago.

Just dial all the preload off (i.e. zero preload), then raise the adjuster to the highest point in the circuit. Then undo the countersunk allen bolt in the centre of the banjo bolt that attaches the hose to the adjuster itself (or close to it), taking care not to lose the o-ring that sits underneath the allen bolt.

Then drip brake fluid into the hole (using a pipette or syringe) until no more will go in. This is fiddly and should not really be rushed. When no more bubbles come out and fluid is level with the top of the hole, re-fit the o-ring and allen bolt and tighten up. It should now work over the full adjustment.

If it doesn't you may need to repeat the process, or in the worst case remove the whole shock from the bike and try again. If it still doesn't work, check for fluid leakage indicating a defective hydraulic seal.