A good mod ...........or NOT ?????

Message

Aladinsaneuk · #16 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:18 pm

again.... why?

I know that d-rider is thinking of doing something similar based on an evo/renegade approach but.....

I had an evo, and switched to renegade for the roar.....

cornish mafia · #17 Post by **cornish mafia** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:25 pm

OH OK ........WELL THE THINKING BEHIND ALL THIS IS : - ......A MIX OF THE RENEGADE AND THE EVO CAN ONLY BE A GOOD THING .......IF IT WORKS

BIGGER AIRBOX AGAIN AND AS FOR THE ROAR I DON'T THINK IT WILL MAKE THAT MUCH DIFFERENCE ..........AGAIN IF IT WORKS .....

GIVE ANYTHING A GO ONCE ...............WELL MOST THINGS..

D-Rider · #18 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 5:06 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote: I know that d-rider is thinking of doing something similar based on an evo/renegade approach but.....

Yep - designed but just need to find the time to make it.

I wouldn't say it's either rene or evo - I perceive each of them has potential shortcomings and my design will address them.

BUT, I am not saying that will make it better as it depends on what you mean by "better". It will overcome the issues I see with those designs but it may have other shortcomings of its own. I'm not going to spend hours on a dyno trying to perfect performance for example - so it may well give less power than these others (might not - might give more) but that's not what I'm addressing.
I do hope to compare it on the road and a dyno with a standard airbox - because if it doesn't make things smoother/ more responsive or it actually sacrifices power, then it's a pointless exercise.

First thing though is to put it together.

Aladinsaneuk · #19 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:22 pm

for my money, and andy and myself have spoken about it a bit, i am more than happy with eith

I am also a fettler... but this is one that did not float my boat - give me just the renegade ..... that sound is addictive

cornish mafia · #20 Post by **cornish mafia** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:24 pm

Great am well happy hearing this as it means i'm not going mad ...

Was going to try and use the same sort of rubber as used on the EVO one to make the seal .........may even go for a slightly stiffer one to see if that helps ...

Not home for another two weeks though but will be giving it a go when i am ........

#21 Post by **Kwackerz** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:24 pm

I would be looking more to flowing the ram inlets than wasting time with the seals of the box mods.

When youre making progress at speed where the ram comes into effect proper, the heat from the engine's effect is negligible.

There may be some effect gained from sealing 'to increase the effect' of the ram air passage however the air entering (unless mistaken.. working off memory) is pretty well directed into the centre of the box area, so losses wont be too tremendous.

I'd be more looking at flowing and increasing the inlet ram tube size

<edit snip>

Gio.. Sam.. Bobbi.. got any pics of Witty's Mille with the oversized ram air inlets (the one he binned at Brands and i was sent off to recover said pipes from bottom of paddock hill)
That was well up on the dyno as i recall and the inlets were accountable for a lot of that

*edit* memory failed... I did mention reducing a size before i edited.. see here.. inlet port size to increase power.. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

cornish mafia · #22 Post by **cornish mafia** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:57 pm

OH NO THIS IS WHERE I START GETTING LOST .........

I HAVE HAD MY EXHAUST MADE AT 400MM INSTEAD OF 450 STANDARD TO THE NORMAL LENGTH .........IS THAT GOING TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE ??

A BIT ANNOYED AT THE MOMENT AS I'M RUNNING STANDARD GEARING ( WILL GIVE A 15 T FRONT A GO IN THE SUMMER ) AND ALL I CAN GET OUT THE BEAST IS ABOUT 145 MPH ..............I KNOW IT'S NOT ALL ABOUT SPEED BUT THE THING IS IT SHOULD BE AT LEAST 10 MPH FASTER ...........I MUST SAY THOUGH IT HAS ALL BEEN DONE BETWEEN DEC / JAN SO HAVEN'T HAD ANYTIME TO REALLY GIVE IT A GO ........

MY LAST FALCO WAS A RIGHT FLYER BUT THIS ONE IS PROVING A BIT MORE WORK TO GET RIGHT ..........

WILL BE CHANGING THE ECU UNIT OUT FOR AN RSVR 2003 WITH EDWARDS CHIP WHEN I GET HOME AS WELL AS I DID IT ON THE LAST ONE AND SEEMED TO BE OK ..............THE STANDARD ECU UNIT HAS HAD A DR ROSSI TRIP FITTED SO MAYBE ......AND IT'S JUST A MAYBE.....THAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM AS IT'S QUICKER TO RESPONED BUT MAYBE AT A LOSS TO TOP END ?????

WILL ADD A SKIRT TO THE RENEG MOD JUST TO SEE IF IT HELPS

D-Rider · #23 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:01 pm

cornish mafia wrote:
WILL ADD A SKIRT TO THE RENEG MOD JUST TO SEE IF IT HELPS

A Rene in a frock .... cross-dressing air-kits .... what will they think of next

#24 Post by **Kwackerz** » Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:05 am

cornish mafia wrote:OH NO THIS IS WHERE I START GETTING LOST .........

I HAVE HAD MY EXHAUST MADE AT 400MM INSTEAD OF 450 STANDARD TO THE NORMAL LENGTH .........IS THAT GOING TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE ??

A BIT ANNOYED AT THE MOMENT AS I'M RUNNING STANDARD GEARING ( WILL GIVE A 15 T FRONT A GO IN THE SUMMER ) AND ALL I CAN GET OUT THE BEAST IS ABOUT 145 MPH ..............I KNOW IT'S NOT ALL ABOUT SPEED BUT THE THING IS IT SHOULD BE AT LEAST 10 MPH FASTER ...........I MUST SAY THOUGH IT HAS ALL BEEN DONE BETWEEN DEC / JAN SO HAVEN'T HAD ANYTIME TO REALLY GIVE IT A GO ........

MY LAST FALCO WAS A RIGHT FLYER BUT THIS ONE IS PROVING A BIT MORE WORK TO GET RIGHT ..........

WILL BE CHANGING THE ECU UNIT OUT FOR AN RSVR 2003 WITH EDWARDS CHIP WHEN I GET HOME AS WELL AS I DID IT ON THE LAST ONE AND SEEMED TO BE OK ..............THE STANDARD ECU UNIT HAS HAD A DR ROSSI TRIP FITTED SO MAYBE ......AND IT'S JUST A MAYBE.....THAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM AS IT'S QUICKER TO RESPONED BUT MAYBE AT A LOSS TO TOP END ?????

WILL ADD A SKIRT TO THE RENEG MOD JUST TO SEE IF IT HELPS

Best stick it on a dyno rather than chopping and changing to hunt out the elusive horses.

The dyno with an o2 sensor will give you a decent map of whats happening with regards your set up. if its too rich top end (check end of can for soot too) then it could lose you some horses, (thats where swapping the chip could help) but equally running a can that doesnt work well with your mods could be the cause of your elusive 'missing bit' as could tyre pressures, tight chain, worn clutch, worn engine...... and a whole myriad of things...

Bang it on a dyno and concentrate on the readings rather than the numbers. then get your credit card ready and start playing... stack heights, chips, cans, collector designs, single/double cans, tuned length, bore sizes.....

Meeeh. just give your bike to Alad, with your card. He likes playing..... Watch out for Nooj. He likes hacksaws.

Aladinsaneuk · #25 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:26 am

works for me....

Viking · #26 Post by **Viking** » Tue Mar 09, 2010 4:12 am

Kwackerz wrote:check end of can for soot too

Trouble with that is the fact that unleaded fuel burns a bit sooty, and seeing if your pipe has "extra soot" is almost impossible.

In the old days of leaded petrol, you could easily tell whether you were rich or lean by looking at the colour of the dust on the exhaust outlet.