Overheating worry
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- Despatch Rider
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:45 pm
- Location: bulgaria
Overheating worry
Help again please guys - my falco is overheating - on the motorway it goes down to 83/4 ( I'm sure it used to be 78) but around town it quickly gets up to 120 plus!!
Checking the coolant level, I noticed a split in the clear level-checking tube, so I replaced this and topped up with water, thinking that must be it. No change - might I have to bleed the cooling system or something?
Both fans seem to be working fine (although worryingly they stop when you turn the ignition off). I turned back on today, and the fans bought it down from 119 to 105 at a standstill with the engine off.
Might have answered my own question there, as that sounds like the thermostat (or something) making the fan not work at a low enough temperature.
Btw, just fitted some Metzeler Z8's and very happy with them - feeling more confident than with the previous Sportsmarts.....
Checking the coolant level, I noticed a split in the clear level-checking tube, so I replaced this and topped up with water, thinking that must be it. No change - might I have to bleed the cooling system or something?
Both fans seem to be working fine (although worryingly they stop when you turn the ignition off). I turned back on today, and the fans bought it down from 119 to 105 at a standstill with the engine off.
Might have answered my own question there, as that sounds like the thermostat (or something) making the fan not work at a low enough temperature.
Btw, just fitted some Metzeler Z8's and very happy with them - feeling more confident than with the previous Sportsmarts.....
My falco is a steady 68 degrees C on the motorway, but it quickly gets up to 93 around town in this kind of weather.
Fans should come on around 92 plus or minus a couple of degrees.
The cooling system is surprisingly simple - a couple of radiators, a pump, a thermostat, and some thermistors to turn the fans on when it's getting a bit warm.
The fans turn off automatically when the ignition is off. If you want to have them on for a few minutes, you'll need to keep the ignition on. Bearing in mind that coolant won't be circulating through the radiators, so not a whole lot of point in doing this.
I'd always recommend doing a coolant change if you haven't done it for a while. It's only supposed to last two years, and is a very simple job to do.
First port of call would be to check what temperature the fans come on at. If it's over 100, you'll probably want to look at replacing the thermistors.
If the bike is unable to keep itself cool at a standstill with the engine running, by cycling the fans on and off every few minutes to drop the temperature, you may have another issue, such as a broken pump, or even a leaky head gasket.
But first things first - change the coolant and let us know the temperature the fans come on at, and whether it can keep itself cool at tickover.
Fans should come on around 92 plus or minus a couple of degrees.
The cooling system is surprisingly simple - a couple of radiators, a pump, a thermostat, and some thermistors to turn the fans on when it's getting a bit warm.
The fans turn off automatically when the ignition is off. If you want to have them on for a few minutes, you'll need to keep the ignition on. Bearing in mind that coolant won't be circulating through the radiators, so not a whole lot of point in doing this.
I'd always recommend doing a coolant change if you haven't done it for a while. It's only supposed to last two years, and is a very simple job to do.
First port of call would be to check what temperature the fans come on at. If it's over 100, you'll probably want to look at replacing the thermistors.
If the bike is unable to keep itself cool at a standstill with the engine running, by cycling the fans on and off every few minutes to drop the temperature, you may have another issue, such as a broken pump, or even a leaky head gasket.
But first things first - change the coolant and let us know the temperature the fans come on at, and whether it can keep itself cool at tickover.
Last edited by Dalemac on Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By the way - a good way to check that the pump is working is to run the bike to the point the fans come on, hit the killswitch and then let the fans cool the coolant in the radiators until the fans switch off.
Then start the engine again. If the pump is working, the temperature should drop by at least a few more degrees, as the coolant in the radiators (which is now significantly cooler than the coolant in the rest of the system) will flow over the temperature sensor, which will cool it.
Obviously it won't be long until it's heating back up again, but i've always found it to be a good test.
Then start the engine again. If the pump is working, the temperature should drop by at least a few more degrees, as the coolant in the radiators (which is now significantly cooler than the coolant in the rest of the system) will flow over the temperature sensor, which will cool it.
Obviously it won't be long until it's heating back up again, but i've always found it to be a good test.
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- Despatch Rider
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:45 pm
- Location: bulgaria
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- Despatch Rider
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:45 pm
- Location: bulgaria
right, started up and fans not coming on until 115 deg so, there's the problem. Killed the engine and fans cooled down to 100 deg when they cut out again. Restarted after 5 mins and temperature not immediately rising, altbhough not actually falling, suggesting the pump is working?.....
So, do I need thermostats or thermistodors (or something) and any suggestions where best to get these mail order?
All suggestions gratefully received :)
So, do I need thermostats or thermistodors (or something) and any suggestions where best to get these mail order?
All suggestions gratefully received :)
It does sound to me like your fans are coming on too late and cutting out too early.
I'm no electrical guru (That's D-Rider), but I believe that thermistor work by changing resistance as temperature changes. Presumably, the falco uses the negative temperature coefficient type thermistor, so as the temperature rises, the resistance decreases.
What is probably happening is the resistance is not changing at the right temperature, so the fans are not coming on or cutting out at the right point.
For reference - my fans usually come on at around 92 degrees and cut out around 89 degrees. They'll cycle on/off every minute or so.
For info - There are two temperature sensors - one in each cylinder head. The front temperature sensor sends the temperature to the dash, the rear temperature sensor sends the temperature to the ECU.
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I'd start simple and just replace the thermistor to begin with (manual calls it a thermistor, parts diagram calls it a thermal switch) - part 17 on this list of bits:
https://www.ultimateparts.net/aprilia/c ... 13&i=18424
Though I wouldn't buy it from ultimate parts - their shipping is ludicrous, even within the UK.
Id give Griff a call or drop him an email (http://www.apriliaperformance.co.uk/) - He should post to you. You can also run the issue past him as well for a second opinion.
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Regarding the pump - There is another way to check it is working, but I'm hesitant to say at this point as there is an element of risk involved.
I'm no electrical guru (That's D-Rider), but I believe that thermistor work by changing resistance as temperature changes. Presumably, the falco uses the negative temperature coefficient type thermistor, so as the temperature rises, the resistance decreases.
What is probably happening is the resistance is not changing at the right temperature, so the fans are not coming on or cutting out at the right point.
For reference - my fans usually come on at around 92 degrees and cut out around 89 degrees. They'll cycle on/off every minute or so.
For info - There are two temperature sensors - one in each cylinder head. The front temperature sensor sends the temperature to the dash, the rear temperature sensor sends the temperature to the ECU.
-------------------------------------------------------------
I'd start simple and just replace the thermistor to begin with (manual calls it a thermistor, parts diagram calls it a thermal switch) - part 17 on this list of bits:
https://www.ultimateparts.net/aprilia/c ... 13&i=18424
Though I wouldn't buy it from ultimate parts - their shipping is ludicrous, even within the UK.
Id give Griff a call or drop him an email (http://www.apriliaperformance.co.uk/) - He should post to you. You can also run the issue past him as well for a second opinion.
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Regarding the pump - There is another way to check it is working, but I'm hesitant to say at this point as there is an element of risk involved.
- blinkey501
- World Champion
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- Location: near doncaster
Fitted a brand new switch to a falco recently and the fans kick in at 99 degrease with the new switch.fatboy wrote:Your fan switch is fucked !!!!!!!
Mine did something similar, the kick in temp got higher and higher, the fans not kicking in until 99 or 101.
new switch fitted fans come on at 89 and switch off at 87.
Do it, you know it makes sense
My mille r, futura and the many falco's I have owned are the same.
Tolerance will be our undoing.
- mangocrazy
- Admin
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- blinkey501
- World Champion
- Posts: 3495
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: near doncaster
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- Despatch Rider
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:45 pm
- Location: bulgaria
Ahem, turns out Griff was right in suggesting low coolant level causing all the above symptoms - apparently topping up the expansion tank is not at all the same as topping up the pressurised filler cap - which is obvious with a moment's intelligent thought......and now all is back to normal.
Big thanks to all contributors :)
Still wouldn't mind a 65 degree thermostat though, to cope with routine mid 30's throughout the summer !
Big thanks to all contributors :)
Still wouldn't mind a 65 degree thermostat though, to cope with routine mid 30's throughout the summer !