I balanced the throttle bodies using the method suggested on Ken's guide using the small tubes that come off the pressure sensor (they can be pushed straight in to pipes supplied with the carbtune!)
I used the screws on the bodies, didn't touch the CO ones on the ECU.
When I started the process the screw on the rear cylinder was only quarter turn from fully in! What on earth would it be doing there? The vacuum was miles off on the carbtune..
better balanced..
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spiderwheels
- Clubman Racer
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:02 pm
- Location: Cambridge
better balanced..
Insert humourous comment here
-
spiderwheels
- Clubman Racer
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:02 pm
- Location: Cambridge
I did mine yesterday, and found similar:
As my bike was also still restricted when I got it, I suspect the balancing might never have been checked?
When finished the front was out approx 1¾ and the rear 1¼.
What puzzles/concerns me, is I had to turn the thumbscrew on RH side of engine to keep the idle up, and it would only sit stable slightly above 1500 rpm. If I lowered it just a tiny bit, idle dropped to ~1000 rpm and then stalled. The idle speed didn't seem to react to even rather big adjustments of the air bleed screws (together) in the way described http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/synch.html ...
Once finished (vacuum hoses and pressure sensor reconnected), the idle at first startup was > 2000 rpm, which I of course turned down to 1400.
The bike does pick up little smoother from closed throttle - more controllable acceleration, with less stutter, is possible round town and sharp turns - so that's good!
So essentialy I now have the air bleed screws in a 'random' but generally accepted position (btwn 1-2 turns out?) and then balanced there.
Guess my questions are:
- * Front air bleed screw was out two turns, rear was out half a turn.
* Vacuum diff. was higher than 70 mbar (30 mbar being the service limit).
As my bike was also still restricted when I got it, I suspect the balancing might never have been checked?
When finished the front was out approx 1¾ and the rear 1¼.
What puzzles/concerns me, is I had to turn the thumbscrew on RH side of engine to keep the idle up, and it would only sit stable slightly above 1500 rpm. If I lowered it just a tiny bit, idle dropped to ~1000 rpm and then stalled. The idle speed didn't seem to react to even rather big adjustments of the air bleed screws (together) in the way described http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/synch.html ...
Once finished (vacuum hoses and pressure sensor reconnected), the idle at first startup was > 2000 rpm, which I of course turned down to 1400.
The bike does pick up little smoother from closed throttle - more controllable acceleration, with less stutter, is possible round town and sharp turns - so that's good!
So essentialy I now have the air bleed screws in a 'random' but generally accepted position (btwn 1-2 turns out?) and then balanced there.
Guess my questions are:
- - Do you think I should put more effort into this, try to find a way of making the engine do what link describes ?
- Think I remember reading this balancing should be done with idle thumbscrew all the way down/off - yes/no?
'00 Falco fire red w/35.000km. New to me in '12.