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im looking for a pdf file for the rover 200 ,sohc 1.1 , bught my neice a car and its having problems , looks like i will have to replace the head gasget , , im looking for timming settings , torque settings , etc any help would be appriciated

thank

hi joe what symtoms are you getting, allthough rovers are common for head gaskets. if you let me know the year i'll get all the data for you.if you do end up taking the head off don't move the pistons with the haed off as it can dislodge the liners then it's game over.

hi fasasfcuk , thers oil in the water , its not overheating yet but it looks bad brown oily sluge in water header tank , runs good otherwise ,

its a 1.1 sohc 1999 2000 i think the old shape

I don't think refurb'd K series engines are that expensive are they? There is a revision kit (originally for Landrovers) with different bolts that improves the headgasket life, there's a lot about it on the MG-F forums.

if your getting that in your expansion tank then it's on it's way.i'll pull the data up tomorrow and get it to you. make sure the head set you get is the modified one with the space saver and steel dowels.new bolts are a must as is getting the head skimmed.don't leave it to late before doing it as that sludge will block the radiater and heater matrix.
the block on the k series can't be refurbished. it is possible the head gasket had gone and been repaired before you bought it because that sludge takes some getting rid of. if your friendly with your local garage with an emissions tester ask them to put the pipe in the top of the expansion tank. if it's gone the hydro carbons will rise.

I spect you might find useful info - and maybe parts - at http://www.rover200.org.uk/

block on the k series can't be refurbished

Shit. Better hope the MG behaves itself then!

hi joe. assuming the head as gone you need to turn the crank pully so that the mark on the cam pully is at 3 o'clock. if your not changeing the cam belt just tipex the crank pully and the timing cover so you know the crank has'nt moved. if your changeing the belt the mark on the crank pully needs to be at 12 o'clock. the torque settings are,
20 nm
180 degrees
180 degrees
new bolts are essential.
when it's back together there's a 8mm bleed nut between the engine and battery tray on the top hose they can be pig getting all the air out.
hope that helps.

loads of information here thanks guys , fasasfcuk that s what i needed, i bough a new gasket set here dont know if it has the space saver and ?steel dowls ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-100-114-200 ... 20ae6765c4
was a good price and a few other gaskets to , but im not sure if its the an upgraded gasket set as mentioned
ill post pics up of my efforts i know its not bikes but should be interesting reading
i found the bleed screw , what a silly place to put it

ps i should of waited for you informative replies but i have to get the car going as she needs it fo uni in edinburgh

thats not the one with the space saver but if it's got steel dowels you should be ok. do'nt scrimp on not getting the head skimmed.

what is the space saver ? i just need a quick fix if the car last her to the end of the year that would be fine , ill give her my rover 25 if all els fails wich i used to use for work , its a 1.4 hope her insurance will come down a bit ,

the space saver is another gasket excactly the same as the head gasket and it sits on top of the head gasket.the gasket you've got will be fine and you might never have a problem but i have had a few come back.where as the modified gasket is permanent.
one other thing when your building back up put the new bolts in gently and feel for the thread. these bolts also hold the bottom crank shells in position and you can knock them off into the sump.